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I'm rebuilding my carbs, and to cheap tospend $85 on rebuild kits, The gaskets look good yet, but I'd like to put some kind of a sealer on them, just in case, I don't want rip the carbs off again, What a Pain:gunhead:.

So if you guys have any ideas please let me know, right now I'm in the prosses of cleaning them, That should take a while, These things are a mess, I bought them off Ebay for $150 and they were suppose to be rebuild, ha ha what a joke, I don't think these things were ever taken apart, Oh well you live and you learn.

So if you can help a cheap guy outlet me know
 

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Just my opinion, but, I don't think that it's wise to use sealers of any type on Gold Wing carbs just in case the sealer gets squeezed into the float bowl and plugs up the very tiny jets that the Wing uses. The sealer could also make the next carbrepair a mess because the float bowls might stick to the carb bodies and may have to be scraped to remove all gasket residue. But, if after all this you still want use a sealer go find some Permatex gasket maker and use it sparingly and let it dry for at least 24 hours before wetting it with gasoline.

Vic
 

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I was more concerned with the carb to center box gaskets, and the gasket inbetween the to halfs of the center box,

I'm not sure what the center box is called, the thing that all four carbs mount to.
 

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If you use silicone at all...us permatex ultra copper.Its the best quality silicone that I know for automotive applications.As said earlier..use it sparingly.Hope this helps.....Trapper:cool:
 

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There is a liquid gasket goo that fills imperfections and comes of easily - available at most car accessory/spare parts places.

As said before - use carefully :action:
 

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Gearhead76 wrote:
I'm rebuilding my carbs, and to cheap tospend $85 on rebuild kits, The gaskets look good yet, but I'd like to put some kind of a sealer on them, just in case, I don't want rip the carbs off again, What a Pain:gunhead:.

So if you guys have any ideas please let me know, right now I'm in the prosses of cleaning them, That should take a while, These things are a mess, I bought them off Ebay for $150 and they were suppose to be rebuild, ha ha what a joke, I don't think these things were ever taken apart, Oh well you live and you learn.

So if you can help a cheap guy outlet me know
Gearhead76, most silicone based sealers don't do very well with automotive fuels, it isn't usually the gasoline that's the problem but the additives there in. One of the better sealers for gasoline resistance is the Loc-Tite anaerobic gasket eliminator type sealers. The only problem with those sealersis; they are pretty permanent & don't disassemble very easily.

On good condition paper type gaskets a good aviation grade Permatex works real good (although a little messy). On the "0" ring & rubber seals maybe a good clean up with alcohol then use a little oil on them at re-assembly time.

Twisty
 

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The plenum doesn't need to be broken apart to rebuild these carbs. Nor do you have to remove the carb bodies from the plenum. Just take the carb tops and bottoms off and go from there. Everything that needs to be cleanded can be accessed with the tops and bottoms off.

As far as rebuild kits for the rest, you should probably at least get the O-rings and float bowl gaskets. O-rings on these bikes, especially one as old as yours, will probably fall apart when you remove the jets, float seats,and other parts.

After everything is clean and you're putting it all back together, be absolutely sure you set the float heights to EXACTLY 21mm, plus-minus 0.5mm.

Also, since yours is a '77, I'd go with a slightly smaller slow air jet... it's the one in the end of the brass elbow on the side of the carb. And I'd also raise the secondary needles about 0.020" by adding a small washer under the head of the needles. Be sure to loctite the threads of the barrel screws that hold the needles, then turn them out 1/8-1/4-turn so they still have some play.

These re-jetting modifications will eliminate the problem that the '77s had with lack of power from idle to 3000 rpm.
 

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I ripped them apart all the way so I can clean these nasty things up using carb dip, Everything came apart pretty good,

Were can I get the smaller slow air jet, and what size do you recommend, I already did the washer trick it the secondary needles, hope it works.

Thanks guys for all the help
 

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Gearhead76 wrote:
I ripped them apart all the way so I can clean these nasty things up using carb dip, Everything came apart pretty good,

Were can I get the smaller slow air jet, and what size do you recommend, I already did the washer trick it the secondary needles, hope it works.

Thanks guys for all the help
There's a couple ways to do it... if you have new carb rebuild kits with jets you can take your old #60 secondary air jets (from inside the carb -they're the ones with the smallest orfices) and drill them out to about a #98, 100, or so with a tiny drill bit.

If you don't have extra jets, remove the slow-air jets from the elbows, thengo down to any motorcycle shop and buy 4 #98 (or so) jets and stuff one of them into each of the rubber vacuum hoses that connect to the elbows. Push them in far enough so you can still get the hoses back onto the elbows.
 

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do you leave the originals in their place or remove them when putting the jet in the hose, And what does this acually fix,

Thanks for the help and advice
 

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Don't leave the originals inthe elbows- the whole idea is to slow down the air coming through the slow air circuit, but not too much! This richens the mixture just a bit - less air, more fuel - and isenough to eliminate the off-idle flat spot with the '77. The original slow air jet is about a #120.

From what I understand, back in '77 Honda was trying to clean up the emissions a bit by leaning the mixture. They went too far.

Part of the reason I suppose,Honda went to the smaller carbs and lower-profile cams in '78 was because of tighter emissions standards. As they found out with the '77, they couldn't do it very well with the big carbs and higher-performance cams that the '75-'77 had. The '75-'77 Goldwings are some of the fastest ever built.
 

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Were should I set the idle mixture screws to start with, The book says 2 turns, Do I start theere and work my way in and out, or is there a better setting
 

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Gearhead76 wrote:
Were should I set the idle mixture screws to start with, The book says 2 turns, Do I start theere and work my way in and out, or is there a better setting
Yep, start there. There's a procedure for adjusting those too and it's probably covered in your book. However, I'd wait until everything is synchronized and running well.
 

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Gearhead76,

I used a silicone sealant on a carb one time.:shock:The next day I was purchasing a rebuilt carb, because there was silicone all through my old carb. Don't try to save money on the carbs!
 

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I didn't use silicone on the carbs, All seals looked good, I did change the orings on the jets though, Should be all right, Now I just gotta remember were all those little parts went, According to everyone else the clemers manual is wrong on where the jets go, But the bores they fit into are two different sizes, so kinda hard to screw them up:gunhead:. But I'm sure I could if I tried,

Thanks guys for all the help
 

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Thats was smart to change the orings. I've seen them dry up and crack while in place which really causes driveability problems. Hope you didn't run a wire through any of the jets because it's very easy to ream the holes in the jets largerwith a wire. Also, lube the new orings before you push them into place so you don't cut them.

Post a note and let us know how it's running after you get it all set up.

Vic
 

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I did use guitar string on the jets, Really thing string that bends easy, you just stick it through the hole give it a little bend and go back and fourth with the wire while spraying carb clean in it, I've never had a problem,
 

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Did you use the steel or nylon guitar string? It's not hard to create an imbalanced carb setup if the pilot jets are even marginally different sizes. If you find the idle a little rough after reinstallation the pilot jets can be purchased in the aftermarket fairly cheaply.

Vic
 

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Gearhead76 wrote:
I didn't use silicone on the carbs, All seals looked good, I did change the orings on the jets though, Should be all right, Now I just gotta remember were all those little parts went, According to everyone else the clemers manual is wrong on where the jets go, But the bores they fit into are two different sizes, so kinda hard to screw them up:gunhead:. But I'm sure I could if I tried,

Thanks guys for all the help
I think the Clymer manual has the primary and secondary air jets backwards. They are both under the kidney-shaped plate in the top of the carbs. The primary air jet has the biggestorifice and is the one toward the outboard side of the carb (toward the head). The primary should be a #120, and the secondary a #60.

If you get these wrong the bike will never run right!
 

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I used steel guitar string, I've done it on about six other bikes without a problem, You just bend the string at about a 30 deg, angle just enough to give it some pressure but not enough to mark the metal.



Axelwik

The two orifices are different sizes on my carbs, so I can't mix them up,

Are the jets in the 77 carb good or should I get some for the 75 carbs, and any other tips before I put these together tomarrow.

Thanks Guys

:clapper:You ROCK:clapper:
 
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