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I initially thought this would be an easy job, but it appears to be a bit more complicated that I thought with having to remove the engine front cover. I doesn't look like I can remove that cover without first removing the radiator, although my Clymer book make no mention of removing the radiator.
Any tips or any techical documents out there that are available?
Thanks much
 

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There is lots of info about this if you do a search of the forum. It's not all that bad once you get into it. The hardest part is putting the radiator back in! Second hardest was cleaning the 21 year old gaskets off! At least it was for me on my 1100.

Keep track of where the bolts go as you remove them. There are several different lengths that need to go back in the correct holes.

Are you sure you need a pump? Depending on what it's doing, you may be able to get by with just new seals.

Bob :11grey:


P.S. If I didn't say it before, Welcome to the forum! :waving:
 

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AZWinger thanks for your advice.

My initial search of this site didn't turn anything, but since starting this thread I have had better luck finding some history.
Are you sure you need a pump? Depending on what it's doing, you may be able to get by with just new seals

I have considered this, but believe a pump is the way to go. This thing has had a tendancy to run hotter than it should in certain situatuions for quite some time now. Really, since not long after it began weeping. Therefore I believe the pump is not working efficiently.
On another thread there was a lot of discussion about how to carefully remove phillips screws on an 1100. I don't see phillips screws on this thing so perhaps that was changed from the 1100 to the 1200?
Thanks to all
 

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delper,

My 83 GL1100 Aspencadehad bolts holding the cover on! Could be they had been replaced sometime in the past but I don't think so. The manual listed torque values for them. I know this because I miss-read and broke a bolt off while torquing it! Maybe the Aspencade is different !?!

My weep hole was leaking oil not water.The seal kit was $17.00 and a new pump was $100-$120.00. Having more time than money, I tried the seals first and got lucky.

Good luck,

Bob :11grey:
 

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My 86 SEI had hex head bolts. A good idea when working on bikes is to use a 1/4" drive ratchet. It's a lot easier to break off bolts with a longer handled wrench. Personally I never use a torque wrench on those type applications, 48yrs of working on whatever develops a good feel. These bolts need to be snug, not tight.

:bash:It's real easy, just tighten them up until they feel soft and back off two flats:doh:
 

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exavid wrote:
My 86 SEI had hex head bolts. A good idea when working on bikes is to use a 1/4" drive ratchet. It's a lot easier to break off bolts with a longer handled wrench. Personally I never use a torque wrench on those type applications, 48yrs of working on whatever develops a good feel. These bolts need to be snug, not tight.

:bash:It's real easy, just tighten them up until they feel soft and back off two flats:doh:

Live and learn! I'm still learning!:gunhead:
 

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AZWinger wrote:
exavid wrote:
My 86 SEI had hex head bolts. A good idea when working on bikes is to use a 1/4" drive ratchet. It's a lot easier to break off bolts with a longer handled wrench. Personally I never use a torque wrench on those type applications, 48yrs of working on whatever develops a good feel. These bolts need to be snug, not tight.

:bash:It's real easy, just tighten them up until they feel soft and back off two flats:doh:
Live and learn! I'm still learning!:gunhead:
Hey don't take that last sentence seriously, it's a joke? I won't be responsible for stripped screws.
 
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