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Answer Seeker & Kibitzer
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I use to have that same trailer a few years back when I had my 95 wing. It was great!!! Towed well when full of wife's stuff and even good when empty. I never should have sold it as now I want to get another one. Buy it you will be happy with it. You can't beat the price that's for sure.
 

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With a 20% off coupon, you can't go wrong. You couldn't buy the parts used to build one that cheap.

I have the HF trailer cut down that I built, Had they had this at the time, I would have just gotten it instead, heard a lot of good things about them.
 

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I looked at one when at HF in CA. and it looks nice but I think those are kinda expensive and limited for me.
Don't forget to use a 20% off coupon if you buy one though, big savings even off the sales price!

If your a little handy with tools probably be better and cheaper to buy the 40x48 HF trailer kit and build your own. Should be able to buy the small one with 8" tires for around $150 on sale and using 20% off coupon and that leaves about $250 to build your body or buy one to mount. Then you also have the option to build or change as you want.

http://www.harborfreight.com/870-lb...ailer-with-8-inch-wheels-and-tires-42708.html

I have this one!
http://www.harborfreight.com/1090-l...-12-inch-four-lug-wheels-and-tires-90153.html
Same size but more heavy duty than the one with 8" tires.

and built this.


To haul this





Just took it from MO. to CA. with not much on it, then from CA. to MO as shown loaded. No real problems!
Getting the tongue weight correct is the big part, once that is correct I could run 70-75mph loaded fine.

Course being a more normal person your probably not going to be hauling 3/4 of a 1500 the 2000 miles like I just did behind my 1500 LOL

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...m/427058-chromos-wild-ride-return-chromo.html

Many people use the HF trailers and like them. Many modifie them some, maybe cut and shorten the width. I used mine as it came from HF in the kit. I did move the tongue forward using the existing holes. I think for how I used mine I should maybe have about 1-2ft longer tongue still, full width was not a problem for me though.

Whatever you may get, pull the bearings and wash out the grease then repack them good with good grease!

Now that I got the parts bike home I may build a teardrop camper on my trailer, I had just tossed that on together fast to haul the parts bike cross country.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I had actually thought about the 1090 lb trailer with me building a floor and walls for it. I could use that for stuff OTHER than the goldwing (is there really other stuff). I was going to measure my riding mower to see if I could make that fit on the trailer. I use that on my rental property. Looking at that smaller trailer, its really not that big of a bargain at all.
 

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An advantage to building your own is you can build more than 1 body for it, make a fast change mounting system and use it for anything!

I just tossed together my trailer body I used to haul the 1500 parts home with. Now I see I can pull and stop allot of weight safely I am planning to build a tear drop camper for the trailer frame also.

In AR. it's $36 for lifetime trailer plates, and I only need tell them I have a home built trailer and give a description of it for the title.
Mine is a 4'x8' flatbed with removable sides. Anything I put on that is then just cargo!
So a teardrop camper body on the flatbed trailer is cargo!

If using the heavier duty trailer, may want to remove the extra springs if only hauling light loads. It bounces a bit with all the springs. I probably did not need all 3 springs even with that big load!
Also run lower tire PSI helps. I ran about 20psi near empty which was probably more than needed, and loaded I ran near max to begin with but in NM. lower it to about 40psi. I check the tires and hubs for heat at most stops and everything was running cool.

I like the 12" tires better than 8" myself.
Not a problem with bearings running faster with smaller tires, but the tires themselves run faster which I feel would cause them to wear out sooner, also build heat faster, and other things. Also a larger tire rolls easier over bad spots, a big help when rolling it around by hand sometimes.
Unfortunately a 12" tires does make the trailer sit higher off the ground, more room under for turbulence and drag, and also makes any loads sit a bit higher though not that big a problem for me. A plus also though is more room under it for those uneven driveways and such to prevent dragging when loaded heavy.

As for MPG with a trailer, it's not the weight but the wind drag! My near empty light weight trailer killed my MPG bad, loaded as in the pictures and tarped over I got far better MPG than when it was empty and open. Yes even though I was pulling maybe 800lbs MPG went up! It's all about drag and airflow!

When I rebuild my trailer changing a few things I will also put a false bottom on it. With a smooth bottom the air will flow easier under it with less turbulence than hitting those cross rails like it does now. I can use the space between the top floor and bottom floor under frame to store stuff also. It will be about the frame depth so lots of small things like tent, tarps, extension cords, tools, etc.. can be hauled there.
 

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X-Roughneck
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An advantage to building your own is you can build more than 1 body for it, make a fast change mounting system and use it for anything!

I just tossed together my trailer body I used to haul the 1500 parts home with. Now I see I can pull and stop allot of weight safely I am planning to build a tear drop camper for the trailer frame also.

In AR. it's $36 for lifetime trailer plates, and I only need tell them I have a home built trailer and give a description of it for the title.
Mine is a 4'x8' flatbed with removable sides. Anything I put on that is then just cargo!
So a teardrop camper body on the flatbed trailer is cargo!

If using the heavier duty trailer, may want to remove the extra springs if only hauling light loads. It bounces a bit with all the springs. I probably did not need all 3 springs even with that big load!
Also run lower tire PSI helps. I ran about 20psi near empty which was probably more than needed, and loaded I ran near max to begin with but in NM. lower it to about 40psi. I check the tires and hubs for heat at most stops and everything was running cool.

I like the 12" tires better than 8" myself.
Not a problem with bearings running faster with smaller tires, but the tires themselves run faster which I feel would cause them to wear out sooner, also build heat faster, and other things. Also a larger tire rolls easier over bad spots, a big help when rolling it around by hand sometimes.
Unfortunately a 12" tires does make the trailer sit higher off the ground, more room under for turbulence and drag, and also makes any loads sit a bit higher though not that big a problem for me. A plus also though is more room under it for those uneven driveways and such to prevent dragging when loaded heavy.

As for MPG with a trailer, it's not the weight but the wind drag! My near empty light weight trailer killed my MPG bad, loaded as in the pictures and tarped over I got far better MPG than when it was empty and open. Yes even though I was pulling maybe 800lbs MPG went up! It's all about drag and airflow!

When I rebuild my trailer changing a few things I will also put a false bottom on it. With a smooth bottom the air will flow easier under it with less turbulence than hitting those cross rails like it does now. I can use the space between the top floor and bottom floor under frame to store stuff also. It will be about the frame depth so lots of small things like tent, tarps, extension cords, tools, etc.. can be hauled there.

That's a purdy good idea. I cut a 12" wheeled HF trl down and put under a AM trl box.I put the axle ON TOP of the leaf springs and lowered it quite a bit.

Tell you a little story though....I built this trl during the winter and pulled it approx 2000-2500 miles without a lick of problems.No weaving,swaying,over 100 mph one time,didn't even know it was back there.
Anyway,i decided to put a Austone CT on my bike.At the sametime i removed the real short leaf spring and the next spring that clamps around the main leaf,to make the trl ride better.
Well....i could jump on the trl and maybe move it 3/4".It was still very stiff, BUT the damn thing started tail wagging.It would start at 70 mph and wag back and forth lightly.Wouldn't get worse but annoying as H-_-.
I tried everything.Tongue weight,no weight,heavy weight,still the same.I started thinking it was the CT causing the problem but at the last minute i decided to put the springs back on it.
That done it!!!!! i cannot believe it.The extra springs makes it stiff as a board but I can now ride 80mph and swerve cross lanes w/o a wobble at all.

Soooooo..if anybody lightened their springs and has a weaving problem,you might check this first.
 

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love my HF trailer
 

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I was running an Austone pulling my monster too. LOL

I have not tried removing springs yet, seems that's what many people do though.

I think allot of my wag problem at times was too much trailer body behind my axle. Gives it momentum to keep wagging if it starts a little at all.
I built it about even 1/2front and 1/2rear, I should have about 1' more in front and 1' less in rear I think. That should help allot. I was looking to balance the weight even for trailer knowing I'd be loading heavy.
More tongue weight did help though for me.
 

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This is interesting! I rode with a guy that pulled a trailer and never had wag issues until he changed to car tire. Now he wags often and I will have to ask him if he removed the leaf. He tried different tongue weight and different things, but he can't remove the wag.

I had wag, but reversing my leaf spring, removing the second leaf and leveling the tongue fixed it for me. (Reversing the leaf means the fixed point is now on the rear of frame).



That's a purdy good idea. I cut a 12" wheeled HF trl down and put under a AM trl box.I put the axle ON TOP of the leaf springs and lowered it quite a bit.

Tell you a little story though....I built this trl during the winter and pulled it approx 2000-2500 miles without a lick of problems.No weaving,swaying,over 100 mph one time,didn't even know it was back there.
Anyway,i decided to put a Austone CT on my bike.At the sametime i removed the real short leaf spring and the next spring that clamps around the main leaf,to make the trl ride better.
Well....i could jump on the trl and maybe move it 3/4".It was still very stiff, BUT the damn thing started tail wagging.It would start at 70 mph and wag back and forth lightly.Wouldn't get worse but annoying as H-_-.
I tried everything.Tongue weight,no weight,heavy weight,still the same.I started thinking it was the CT causing the problem but at the last minute i decided to put the springs back on it.
That done it!!!!! i cannot believe it.The extra springs makes it stiff as a board but I can now ride 80mph and swerve cross lanes w/o a wobble at all.

Soooooo..if anybody lightened their springs and has a weaving problem,you might check this first.
 

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Premium Member
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That's a purdy good idea. I cut a 12" wheeled HF trl down and put under a AM trl box.I put the axle ON TOP of the leaf springs and lowered it quite a bit.

.
What is a AM trailer box and how many cubic feet does it have?
 

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Friend of Bill W.
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I lugged the HF tag along for two years. Loved it..... Can't touch another trailer for that price. I sold mine for $350 after using it for two years.

I threw a soft sided car top bag on it and hauled all of our sleeping gear, rain gear, and clothes bags in the car top bag..... That left quite a bit of room in the trailer.

 

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I have over 40k miles on mine now and love it. Well worth the pennies it costs compared to other trailers.

I have changed mine a little, most recently I changed from the 8" tires to 12" with aluminum wheels. Here are some pics of mine in various places.












I threw away all of the cheap hardware it came with and used stainless steel, carpeted the inside, added eye bolts to the floor to secure the luggage inside, put on LED lighting along with the third brake light, added the swivel hitch, fabricated a cooler rack, removed all but one leaf from each spring, moved the fender mounts to accommodate the 12" wheels, changed the wheel studs from metric to standard. Most likely there is some other mods but that's some of it.

All together I'd estimate less than $800 invested counting the new wheels and tires I just installed. Much cheaper than some of the other options and it has plenty of room. It has never leaked but I did add a weather strip to the lid. It bounces a little when empty but when loaded you never know it's back there. Tracks straight, doesn't move around in the wind or anything.

I love my tag along trailer :)
 

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That's the trailer I built; I had my welder add 24" to the tongue so I could mount a cooler. I also added weather stripping around the opening.
No wags, no problems!
 

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What tires/wheels did you change to?

They look great.

It also looks like you extended the tongue length, how much longer?

The wheels are standard 4 on 4 lug pattern with no special dish with powder coated inner and polished and clear coated outer. Tires are 4.8 X 12.

The tongue is the one it came with but I mounted it one bolt hole forward from what the instructions called for and I added the swivel hitch which adds about 12" to the length overall. This provided enough room for the cooler rack I made for it.

If you want to know the exact model wheel I'll have to look it up. I don't even remember where I ordered them from. But when I got the wheels and tires they mounted them for free and shipped them as assembly's.
 
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