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On a Wing & a KLR
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Just wondering if these are stock springs on the 1500? My manuals picture doesn't give me a clear answer. I removed these from my 2000 SE today. They had the spacer but looking at them they are progressively wound. Wondering if this is an early style of Progressive spring. Length is exactly spec.

 

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I would say yes! But that is just an over-the-internet visual appraisal.

Dood... just buy the progressives... install them.

Be happy!
 

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I just installed two sets of Progressives . One in a 94SE the other in a 98Aspy . Here is a photo . The 94 two piece spring is on the left , 98 one piece and spacer in center followed by Progressive on the right .
 

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If yours had the spacer in it,, then I would say it was OEM. Because you WILL NOT get that spacer in with the progressives. The spacer is not needed.
 

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Progressives will stick out of the tube @2"-3" when you remove the cap.
Stock spring and spacer will stick out @ 3/4" when you remove the cap.
 

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Not to hijack the thread, but since the original question was answered.....:smiler:

I've been looking at adding progressive springs. Is all you do to install them take the caps off, pull out the old, and drop in the new ones ? I'm fairly mechanically inclined (just changed my timing belts) and hate going to the dealer. With instructions, I'll try to fix about anything.

Everyone who installs progressive says the ride improves - basically, how is the ride improved ?
 

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Scott , yes its as simple as switching them out . BUT beware of letting them loose without a fxture to control the spring or it may jump out and knock out your teeth while hunkered over the fork and unscrewing the cap .

Better ride ? Its better . In my case most anything would have been better as my springs had 184K miles on them . I will also say my bike sits just a bit lower now . Sorry I cant give a measurement , just my short legs now have feet on the ground .
 

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Just another ORF!
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In my case Mike, my ride height increased, as my OEM springs had sagged to the bare minimum of their service limit and when I installed the Progressives, it restored the ride height back to 'normal'.

Scott; .... when people comment that the ride improved, they refer mostly to the fact that the 'mushy' fork flex/twitchiness has disappeared in the corners. The ride can be a little firmer, but it all depends on what weight and amount of oil you install with them, after draining out the old fluid. As a regular maintenance item, I flushed out and replaced my fork fluid every two years.

Since my bike's OEM fork caps didn't have air valves in them, I drilled/tapped the caps to accept some button head hex bolts (with washer and 2 0-rings) and I cannow remove those bolts(without having to remove the fork caps from the forks)to drain/change/refill my fork fluid 2 -3 times/season (I ride a lot of miles/year) and that keeps the bike riding/handling great. You wouldn't believe how dirty the fork oil gets, even at those change intervals!



Dusty
 

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Thank everyone - this sounds easier than installing the timing belts ! I have an Aspencade, but the previous owner installed the SE caps with the air valves.

Follow-up question. I just searched eBay, and all the GL1500 progressive springs look alike, and run $70-$100. Is there a particular brand I should use ?
 

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As long as your going to change out the springs, you might as well do the rebuild of the forks. (Seals, bushings, ,,,,,,,, umm,,,, can't remember what else) :?
 

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fluid, crush washers and a spare hex bolt (or 2) for the bottom of the forks, in case you strip one or two of them when untightening them (remember, Dave!)
 

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Dusty Boots wrote:
fluid, crush washers and a spare hex bolt (or 2) for the bottom of the forks, in case you strip one or two of them when untightening them (remember, Dave!)
Yepper,,,,,,, came to me about the same time I hit the "send". Those hex bolts can be darned tight. It is a good idea to get them broke loose while still clamped on the bike.
 

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I had satisfactory results when I completely removed the forks and turned them upside down (springs/caps still on) and sprayed them with some liquid wrench and gave those bolts a good rap with a socket hex wrench and hammer. I'd repeat that every couple of hours and let set overnight. Then when it came time to remove them, I ever so slightly tightened them, before backing them out. Worked well for me.

When I reinstalled them (along with a new crush washer) Iapplied some anti seize compound to the threads, to prevent galling in the future, to ease removal the next time.

I believe you stripped the head of one trying to remove it at 1st, didn't you Dave?


Care to tell/share with us how you overcame that obstacle?



Cheers, Ken
 

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On a Wing & a KLR
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Discussion Starter #16
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Thanks for the responses. I figured they were likely OEM because of the spacer but I suppose I was expecting them to show some sag which they didn't.
 

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Did you measure them to make sure they were within their service limit?

On the earlier wings, with the two piece spring set up (not sure if the larger spring is the same part for later wings that came with the spacer?) the service limit is 382.8mm/15.07".

If they are less than that, then they are shot and need to be replaced.

Mine were right at/very slightly below those figures and I needed it back on the road in a hurry, so I didn't have the time to wait for new Progressives to ship out, so I added a couple of large fender washers about the same size as the washer that separates the two springs, torestore the bike's ride height. It was a good temporary solution, that worked until I installed the new Progressives, later on.



Dusty
 

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Dusty Boots wrote:
I had satisfactory results when I completely removed the forks and turned them upside down (springs/caps still on) and sprayed them with some liquid wrench and gave those bolts a good rap with a socket hex wrench and hammer. I'd repeat that every couple of hours and let set overnight. Then when it came time to remove them, I ever so slightly tightened them, before backing them out. Worked well for me.

When I reinstalled them (along with a new crush washer) Iapplied some anti seize compound to the threads, to prevent galling in the future, to ease removal the next time.

I believe you stripped the head of one trying to remove it at 1st, didn't you Dave?


Care to tell/share with us how you overcame that obstacle?



Cheers, Ken
Correct-a-mundo Ken,,

Stripped the head and so I had to go from the metric size hex wrench,, to a standerd, just a little larger in size. I hammered it into the head of the bolt and was lucky it held to break it loose.

I didn't take any chances on the next one, and gave that one a few good thumps before attempting to turn it. Came out with no trouble. Now I don't know if it was from hitting it,,,,, or,,,,, if it just wasn't all that tight to begin with. BUT,,,,,,, it doesn't hurt to give it a few thumps just to be sure.



Silly me :gunhead:,,,,,,,,,, here's a thread I did on it then,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/106542.html
 

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Like I said, I was changing out the seals/bushings etc ....... so Islid the forks outfrom the bike after I drained the fork oil, had cracked the fork caps loose, (but left the fork caps and springs intact), so that I could remove those pesky, sunken hex bolts, byworking on them from above. I hate working on something that is recessed and Ican't get a look at it to make sure my tool has good contact for fear of the wrench/socket/screwdriver slipping off, stripping the head.

Once I had the forks out of the bike, I invented them so when I soaked down the sunken hex bolt with some liquid wrench, the penetrate had a better chance of creeping along the threads.

Seeing as I didn't have any spare 6mm Allen wrenches to cut down, I bought a set of long shank 3/8 drive metric hex bit sockets from Princess Auto, that were on sale for $9.99. After the penetrating fluid had soaked for a good hour, I fully inserted the 6mm socket and gave it a good 'thumpin' with a hammer. I repeated this a few times during the evening and let them set overnight.

The next day, I once again gave them a good 'thumpin' and then used a long breaker bar to slightly tighten thebolts (which usually breaks them free)and then used my impactgun to easily remove them. You could substitute a hammer drill, or adjust the clutch setting on your portable drill, to give the same effect if you don't have an impact gun/wrench.

Anyways, that is one way to remove a steel bolt such as these forkhex boltsthat aretightened into bottom of the aluminum lowerfork assembly, which causes galling and can make removing a bolt/nut to be a not so simple task.



Dusty
 

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On a Wing & a KLR
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Discussion Starter #20
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I got my forks back together last night with the Progressive springs installed. Home made spring compressor was the bomb.

So I'm cleaning up my bench and what's this?, instructions from Progressive. Not the best either but they did recommend 15WT oil and I was sure I read somewhere here to use 10WT which is what I used. Did I screw up??

Set the levels at 194mm. Before I drained them the levels were 217 in the right and 224 in the left.
 
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