Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
374 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

So, i posted here a few days ago about my problems with the screw in the trans cover that I am tryin to extract. I bought some screw extractors from two different manufacturers and neither works. I tried sawing a crosswise hatch into it to use a flat blade driver, but no go that way.

It looks as if I will have to resort to drilling out the head and hacking off the remainder of the head that will, inevitably, still be holding on the cover.

Ever have that "wits end" feeling? :gunhead:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
106 Posts
imported post

short answer, YES. last fall, 77 gl1000 while replacing the starter clutch. Went to torque the back case cover bolts on and found out my dial and click torque wrench was "sticking" over torquing 28 yo 6 mm bolts is not a good thing, though I did get to see some interesting examples of material deformation. Had to take the case back off to get the one topless bolt out and had 3 or 4 that had stretched but not broken before the wrench finally clicked.

I didnt throw the wrench away, I am very careful in using it though now. Think it is positionally sensitive. one has to hold it in just the right spot to get it to function as designed.

bob
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
270 Posts
imported post

Use a heat gun around the area of the Broken bolt before trying to turn it. Even having someone aim the heat at the area while trying. If the aluminum is cold then its shrunk a little. Heat may loosen it just enough. Just let the aluminum cool completely beforeretorquing a new bolt in there.

This might work?
 

·
Postpubescent member
Joined
·
36,382 Posts
imported post

revinger wrote:
short answer, YES. last fall, 77 gl1000 while replacing the starter clutch. Went to torque the back case cover bolts on and found out my dial and click torque wrench was "sticking" over torquing 28 yo 6 mm bolts is not a good thing, though I did get to see some interesting examples of material deformation. Had to take the case back off to get the one topless bolt out and had 3 or 4 that had stretched but not broken before the wrench finally clicked.

I didnt throw the wrench away, I am very careful in using it though now. Think it is positionally sensitive. one has to hold it in just the right spot to get it to function as designed.

bob
I always thought that's how you tighten a bolt or nut, just turn until it feels soft and back of a flat!:cheeky1::cheeky1:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,028 Posts
imported post

If it comes to the worst you might have to get a good welder to weld a new bolt onto the old stump, then you will be able to unbolt the thing. It's tricky to get a weld onto a small area that's why I suggest getting a welder to do it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19 Posts
imported post

Just wondered, did you try a handheldimpact driver, the kind that has various screwdriver bits, and you "preload" by twisting the body, then striking the end with a hammer? I've been able to extract the cheesy aluminum screws that are the original equipment. The last one was the speedometer cable lock screw on the 82 A. (why do people insist on using old nasty screws over again? I'd like to talk to the individual who rounded off the oil filter bolt, my 72 750 still has the original bolt and it works just fine- I bought the new oversize replacement bolt, guess I'll have to use the impact gun on the compressor to get the thoroughly stuck oil filter bolt loose:X)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
25 Posts
imported post

Whoa bud, try this before going to such drastic measures. And never use an impact on a bolt going into aluminum, I might add. Go to an electronic supply house ( in the US - radio shack) and get a minature propane heated soldering iron, not a large bottle heated unit like you would use for plumbing. Use the torch attachment, heat the bolt very hot, not just hotter than you can touch but very hot. Now take a small birthday candle and feed it into the joint between the bolt head and the casing. The bolt will draw the wax down in as a lubricant. Let it cool down for 20 - 30 minutes 0 til you can place a finger on it and not feel and heat. Now try your cross cut screw driver or extractor - the screw should come right out - never had it fail for me yet. Let me know if it works.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top