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I'm riding along yesterday......when suddenly the bike starts missing and running extremely rough.......at the same time the rear suspension air pressure light comes on. I pull over and the bike dies. There is no power at all........key in "on", no oil light, no neutral light, no headlight, no starter.........nothing. Like the battery isn't hooked up.



I start wiggling connectorsunder the fake tank...........suddenly I have power again. I take off and get maybe 2 miles and it does it again. Same thing. I start poking around the main harness and plugs.........suddenly I have power......away I go...........and about 5 miles later........dies again. This time I can't get it going and have to have my wife bring the trailer.



Here's what I know. Battery is good to go and fully charged. The issue seems to be something between the battery and the fuse block (which has no power). Anybody have any ideas? Something common that goes out, or a place to start looking?



Saturday, I'll pull the fake tank and seat and start tracing wires. What a pain.
 

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Main fuse jsut below the solenoid..it's a dogbone fuse if you haven't replaced it with a blade type..anyway it may look good but it may have a hairline crack..take it out and replace or install a blade fuse in it's place.
 

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RB wrote:
Main fuse jsut below the solenoid..it's a dogbone fuse if you haven't replaced it with a blade type..anyway it may look good but it may have a hairline crack..take it out and replace or install a blade fuse in it's place.
betcha!
 

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Hi Bish,

This exact thing happen to me. I was doubtful that that was the problem as I was moving the wire harness by the tank and not the solenoid. It was just a coincidence.

Here's what you need to do... a $10.00 fix or less.

Tim.
 

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Installed...
 

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Covered...
 

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Don't forget to give the contacts around that solonoid a good cleaning too! Thats what caused my July power failure. Same symptoms as a bad main fuse.(last month's..lol..yesterday's was a dirty ignition switch)
 

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Spot on guys! On visual inspection, fusible link appeared fine. Got a big fat zero off it with the multimeter! Upon unscrewing one side....the link split in half......it had a nearly invisible hairline crack in it!



Fabbin' up a 30 amp replacement right now.



Thanks!!!!!
 

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Alright.......now it's getting just plain weird.



Fabbed up an inline 30amp fuse, everything good to go. Fired up, ran it for a few minutes...no issues. Turned it on and off a few more times......everything good to go.



Turned it off........and now once again, nothing. Nada, zilch, zip. My fuse is still good to go. Just in case........I put a new one in.......same thing. My multimeter shows 12VDC on each side of the inline.........so it's good. If I pull the 4-prong plug off the solenoid.........I don't get 12VDC on any of the solenoid side blades. I ran a test wire from the inline to the red wire on the plug side........and I get all my lights etc.



I'm assuming the solenoid is toast, but I've never seen one fail this way...like the contacts inside are bad.



I grabbed one off Ebay....but it'll be a week at least before it gets here. I want to ride tomorrow........and plus this is my commuter. So, anybody have a part number or suggestion on another relay I can use......and wire directions for modding the 4-prong to another relay type?



Eric
 

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Hey Eric...when you turn on the ignition, do you get the lights (oil/neutral/headlight?)?
 

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daveman wrote:
Hey Eric...when you turn on the ignition, do you get the lights (oil/neutral/headlight?)?
Nope..........nothing. No power to anything at all. Unless I run my test wire from a 12VDC source to the red wire on the harness plug (that plugs into the 4-prong on the solenoid).
 

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Could it be corrosion on the screw terminal where the main fuse connects? If not you could somehow jumper the main fuse to the red and red/white wires.
 

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DaveO430 wrote:
Could it be corrosion on the screw terminal where the main fuse connects? If not you could somehow jumper the main fuse to the red and red/white wires.



Basically what I did with my test wire. Gives me power (oil light, neutral light etc).
 

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Bish wrote:
DaveO430 wrote:
Could it be corrosion on the screw terminal where the main fuse connects? If not you could somehow jumper the main fuse to the red and red/white wires.



Basically what I did with my test wire. Gives me power (oil light, neutral light etc).
Yes, what you can do and it may be actually better is connect the red and red/white wires directly to the + battery terminal with the fuse inline. This bypasses the connections on the solenoid and gives more power to the electrical system for better lighting and ignition, theoretically.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
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DaveO430 wrote:
Bish wrote:
DaveO430 wrote:
Could it be corrosion on the screw terminal where the main fuse connects? If not you could somehow jumper the main fuse to the red and red/white wires.



Basically what I did with my test wire. Gives me power (oil light, neutral light etc).
Yes, what you can do and it may be actually better is connect the red and red/white wires directly to the + battery terminal with the fuse inline. This bypasses the connections on the solenoid and gives more power to the electrical system for better lighting and ignition, theoretically.
This is what I did.......works great! So I guess the solenoid contact points were bad........it's working great now. Still got a solenoid on the way.......guess that'll be a spare.
 
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