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My Honda dealer tells me that the rubber brake line on the Aspencade 84 through 87 show different part numbers .I would like to order stainless steel lines from parogon performance but they don't have the specs for the 85Aspencade. My bikecan anyone help? Thanks.
 

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Greetings,

I recall that Paragon has made the offer in the past, if they don't have your lines in stock, by using your lines that you provide, replicate your lines in stainless, and give you a discount on your new set of lines. I might be mistaken however, but you can give them a call.

Also, you might check with http://www.Vencowings.comand ask them if they can get the Adirondacks stainless in what you need.

Regards,

Hobie
 

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Thanks Hobie 1 have you done this sent Paragon a set of lines or do you know someone who has I don't want to end up with no lines at all as some of them are out of production.Thanks .TJ859
 

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Both myself and Vic have sent Paragon some lines and got back a nice set of braided SS lines. They did what they said they would do.

They create the lines there, so you don't run into any production problems. Call or e-mail them first.

Raymond
 

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Thanks Silicon Sam I will email them again.
 

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Hi,

I have an 83, and just got my brake lines from Paragon. Very nice parts, but be prepared to grunt a little when you replace the rubber with braided SS. The SS lines aren't as flexible, especially the small one that connects the rear caliper (you have to bend it this way and that, and also try to "twist" it). They sure do look good, though. :)

Jack
 

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I wonder'd about the rear brake line. Do you think that really cranking on them is a good thing to do? As it stands, I'm going to run the rear brake line around the out side of the shock in between the saddlebag and the shock. I worried about the stress on the line if I ran it inside of the shock in the original path of the old line.

Hobie
 

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Hobie1 wrote:
I wonder'd about the rear brake line. Do you think that really cranking on them is a good thing to do? As it stands, I'm going to run the rear brake line around the out side of the shock in between the saddlebag and the shock. I worried about the stress on the line if I ran it inside of the shock in the original path of the old line.

Hobie
If you route it differently make sure it will reach, it's likely Honda used the shortest routing so you might come up short if your new brake like is the same length. Why would it stress the brake line to route it inside the shock. Can't you unbolt the shock to lay the cable in?

:stumped:
 

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Thanks all of you for the feed back .Heard back from paragon today now comes the job of taking the fairing off to get at the front lines Ihave a Clymer manual .Is there a better way to remove the fairing than the way they discribe it or should I follow their Inst. TJ859-----85 Aspy
 

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exavid, when you set up the end that attaches to the caliper by a banjo bolt so that the line isn't "torqueing" on the bolt, at least with the line I've been provided, it seems that when it comes out of the attachment point to the metal line, you have to make a pretty severe kink in the line to get it to fit around the area between the shock and wheel. I didn't feel comfortable kinking the line that much as it is really stiff. I'm afraid of overstressing the stainless steel braid.Since I reasoned that there was plenty of clearance between the saddlebag and shock, and sinceyou won't readily be able to see it, I ran it around the outside of the shock.

Regards,

Hobie
 

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Hobie1 wrote:
exavid, when you set up the end that attaches to the caliper by a banjo bolt so that the line isn't "torqueing" on the bolt, at least with the line I've been provided, it seems that when it comes out of the attachment point to the metal line, you have to make a pretty severe kink in the line to get it to fit around the area between the shock and wheel. I didn't feel comfortable kinking the line that much as it is really stiff. I'm afraid of overstressing the stainless steel braid.Since I reasoned that there was plenty of clearance between the saddlebag and shock, and sinceyou won't readily be able to see it, I ran it around the outside of the shock.

Regards,

Hobie
I was worried about that as well when I put mine on. I attached the flange end first, then realized I couldn't get the banjo end on the caliper without torqueing it severely. SoI undid it, attached the banjo, then the flanged end. I didn't have too much trouble getting the line in, but even so, I figured that the SS should hold up at least as well as the rubber one did.

Jack
 

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jsmith24 wrote:
I was worried about that as well when I put mine on. I attached the flange end first, then realized I couldn't get the banjo end on the caliper without torqueing it severely. SoI undid it, attached the banjo, then the flanged end. I didn't have too much trouble getting the line in, but even so, I figured that the SS should hold up at least as well as the rubber one did.

Jack
Sounds kind of like the speedo cable, it you attach the speedo end first it's hard to get the lower end in without twisting the cable. Attach the lower end first and it goes okay.
 

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Well guys, I talked to Paragon a minute ago and asked him what he thought of the whole situation. He said you can loop the line quite a bit but you don't want to kink it. Soooo,you're probably good to go, as well as the method I'm using. He stated that alot of off road vehicles also run the line around the outside of the shock.

Let us know how your install works out and if you experience any problems and I'll do the same.

Good to talk to you folks.:cheeky1::action::grinner:

HObee
 

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I've had stainkless lines made up before. I sent off the old hoses and the shop justused my existing unions and put new stainless lines onto them. I don't know if Paragon reuse the old unions or supply new ones.
 
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