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I'm attempting to setup the auxillary power setup to the fairing on a 96 SE 1500 per Rudy's example posted on his website. I'm showing 12v+ going into a 30amp relay, but am not getting any voltage coming out. I've run the negative and positive connections from the fuse block but notice that the voltage at the block is only .06 but I do read that same voltage on the relay. Any idea why I'm not getting any voltage coming out of the relay? Is the .06 enough to trip the relay?

Randy
Sewell, NJ
1996 1500 SE with Hannegan sidecar
 

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Lock and Key Guru
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Sounds like a blown fuse on the aux circult I think fuse 8 in the block is the one to check, but others will be along soon smarter than me.
 

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By the way where are you located? put it in your profile, help could be round the corner
 

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Just checked the Circuit diagram its fuse 10 fitted with a 10amp fuse.
 

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Actually, the one that blew was the first fuse, a 25 amp. It probably blew when I first attempted to hook up the relay the wrong way. Anyway, that was the problem and it is now fixed and running and my new heated grips are working like a charm. Many thanks. Rudy, your documentation on setting up the auxillary power system was the boss. Other than doing one stupid thing, I was able to follow your directions quite well and now am set to hook up all my devices without having to reinvent the wheel each time. Thanks guys. Happy riding.
 

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Monkey with a Football
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koolskins wrote:
Actually, the one that blew was the first fuse, a 25 amp. It probably blew when I first attempted to hook up the relay the wrong way. Anyway, that was the problem and it is now fixed and running and my new heated grips are working like a charm. Many thanks. Rudy, your documentation on setting up the auxillary power system was the boss. Other than doing one stupid thing, I was able to follow your directions quite well and now am set to hook up all my devices without having to reinvent the wheel each time. Thanks guys. Happy riding.
You are welcome but hold on there big fella... that top fuse should be a 5 amp not a 25 amp. Now that you have a relay system, I would take everything off of the aux power terminals except that one relay coil and then move what was on the +12 of the aux terminals to the switched +12 relay contact so it handles the load.

Those aux terminals are not meant to handle high current loads.
You may damage your fuse block or even start a fire in the worst case if you are pulling anything over, say, 10 amps through the aux connections.
 

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Okay, I need to rephrase this so I'm sure I understand your instructions. By moving any other loads from the fuse block, I'm assuming this would be any other connections to the positive screw of the block. If so, there is one there, but nothing on the negative screw (other than the one I placed). I picked up this rig back in June and the only auxillary, non-stock devices on the rig that I know of is the sidecar and an airhorn. I not positive which one the additional wire is connected to yet, but I will trace that back if this is what you are referring to. I would also assume that after I move this connection, I should put a 5 amp fuse back in position 1, right. Thanks for the heads up, really appreciate the help.
 

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That was the first modification I did to my bike. When you are done, the only wires going to those aux terminals will be to power your new relays. Anything that is there now, can be moved to your newly created power terminals, either the relayed side, or the hot side. Yes, a 5 amp fuse goes back into the number one position, because all that will be powered there now, are the new front and if you installed it, back relay. I only added the front half. I’m not a big light freak, and my biggest concern was to add some driving lights.

I am far from an electrical guru, and everything works great.
 

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Monkey with a Football
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koolskins wrote:
Okay, I need to rephrase this so I'm sure I understand your instructions. By moving any other loads from the fuse block, I'm assuming this would be any other connections to the positive screw of the block. If so, there is one there, but nothing on the negative screw (other than the one I placed). I picked up this rig back in June and the only auxillary, non-stock devices on the rig that I know of is the sidecar and an airhorn. I not positive which one the additional wire is connected to yet, but I will trace that back if this is what you are referring to. I would also assume that after I move this connection, I should put a 5 amp fuse back in position 1, right. Thanks for the heads up, really appreciate the help.
Thanks Mike, for that clarification.

Kool, you don't need to worry about the ground screw stuff on the aux terminals because ground can be (and is usually) obtained elsewhere in the bike. That ground screw is just a convenience Honda provided for when adding accessories.

A lot of guys get lazy or don't know not to overload that aux circuit and relay and 'cheat' by boosting the fuse value to compensate for a load too large for it.
That's a good way to burn up your bike, if not the stock wiring.

My guess is that the PO did that to add either driving lights, an air horn or a full fledged cigarette lighter socket. I see that a lot (among other amazing things).

Once you have the 30 A relay added to the system, EVERYTHING non-stock that uses switched +12 should go through the relay and the stock aux terminals should only drive relay coils or possibly some flea powered extra accessory items.
 

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Thanks Rudy, I did trace that connection back to the airhorn and the ground was put on the frame. I've rerouted that now to the fused relay and replaced that 25amp fuse in position 1 with a 5amp fuse. Everything seems to be working fine. Thanks again for the help.
 

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Monkey with a Football
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Now I hate to say this but....

Ideally, the air horn would be driven by it's own relay with that new horn relay's coil getting it's drive from one of the other horns. And the power for it's contacts would come from your new AUX power relay out.

That way your air horns would get their power from the horn relay you added, the horn relay would get it's power from the new aux relay and as you have already, the new aux relay would get it's power directly from the battery.

This way you aren't asking the stock system and horn button to carry the whole load. Just enough to run the coil on the horn relay. Plus you get maximum energy to the air horn when you need it.

Just sayin'
 

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Ahhh, that explains why my horn sounded a little weaker and slower to activate when I tested it. Thanks for the heads up, I guess that's my next 'to do'.
 
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