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So, your pretty certain this is not a bolt on and go modification? Other ways to accomplish it which could involve dropping the piston back a bit, which would involve major alteration to the crank or complete tear down, would yield an even lower compression. I'm kind of bummed out. It is quickly going away from the inexpensive mod.
 

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joedrum wrote:
.these kind of modds can be talk to death but the unknown are still the unknowns untill its put together and tried ....my 82 1100 with 75 cams is a known success and tool for outcome to measure with .....

heck that valve just bearly hit ...the weather sucks but im close to diving into this soon ....my shop is a little drafty right now
I did put it together and it won't work in this form. I just didn't see a need to wreck an engine to find out if it would work.
A valve that "bearly hit" cold will be bent in mili-seconds in a running engine.

The difference (at least the one that we care about in this context) between the 1100 and the 1200 is the valve reliefs in the piston.

Steve
 

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ekvh wrote:
So, your pretty certain this is not a bolt on and go modification? Other ways to accomplish it which could involve dropping the piston back a bit, which would involve major alteration to the crank or complete tear down, would yield an even lower compression. I'm kind of bummed out. It is quickly going away from the inexpensive mod.
The piston mod can be done in the engine and by a relatively competent wrench. This is old school basic hotrodding the way it was done be for there was a kit for every thing.

It turns out us old guys have something to offer after all!

Steve
 

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"It turns out us old guys have something to offer after all!" Besides higher insurance premiums?

"The piston mod can be done in the engine and by a relatively competent wrench. This is old school basic hotrodding the way it was done be for there was a kit for every thing." Is this still on tap for this project?
 

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ekvh wrote:
Other ways to accomplish it which could involve...
...usingCivic CVCC 1200 pistons... :blackstuff:But there's more to it than justa piston swap. :cool:
 

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CaptainMidnight85 wrote:
ekvh wrote:
Other ways to accomplish it which could involve...
...usingCivic CVCC 1200 pistons... :blackstuff:But there's more to it than justa piston swap. :cool:
Actually you can solder or braze a cuter on to an old valve and put the head on the engine with the cuter/valve in the guide and turn the valve stem with a drill. It's slightly more complicated than that. Give a few days to finish sorting things out and we can go from there.

Steve
 

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nah captain and all i wasnt trying to say anything bad or go after anybody ....i was giving my opinion on what i thought was going on abou t the cut out ....i dont think we have a supper parts mismatch or a non working road block...

its like steve said this is nothing more than old school hot rodding 101 this is why its call modifing ...buying kits at the speed store is bolt on rodding to some degree and hard engineering is why they did it the way they did when produce ....modifying like this is what if and maybe on things like parts mixing setups between yrs ...

in no way am i slaming steve at all ...he seems to be going about it in a safe way ...even when you think all precautions are taken you can get biten but steve didnt probably didnt hurt any thing i hope not ....but he brought supper usefiul info and step that needs to be done to the table in an old school cover your bases way ....thums up hes doing just what he said he was going to do.....
 

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"Actually you can solder or braze a cuter on to an old valve and put the head on the engine with the cuter/valve in the guide and turn the valve stem with a drill. It's slightly more complicated than that. Give a few days to finish sorting things out and we can go from there." Cool beans. Let's hope it doesn't snow any more.
 

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I thank Steve for the work he is undertaken on this . He is providing valuable hrs/weeks worth of experimenting for us all to follow along . :clapper:



The way this started was a low budget project . And just swapping a head and cam from another model would be fairly low tech ,low budget to gain some performance if it works out . I believe what Steve is showing us provides its not just a bolt on . This mod may be possible but will take some extra effort to accomplish and therefore not be a simple bolt on .

Many folks have the abilty to do a parts swap . Only a few would have the time,patience,experience to follow thru with modifying pistons heads ect . I will continue to follow as this thread is quite interesting to me .
 

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yea what mike said this is all good stuff....its helping me big time ...im not having a problem here...when i started my 1200 project it all came down to getting a 1200 motor in a bike deal i made ....i didnt know all the answers yet ...but after the motor was mine the game was on ...im not part of the budget build steve posts are about ....but every project i do is a budgit build....on my build i have all kinds of things being considerd ....

there are things about the 1200 head i just dont like at all ....the ideal that its engineer to have exhast gas and water threw the head seperated by just thin casting is just
completely unexceptable for me to use it in my book ...its like designing a head crack desaster into the head on purpose....not something i want to ride around with in my bike ....there all kinds of scientific reasons to engineer this ...better this better that ...but not for me ....that head casting will not be my choice in any build
 

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Discussion Starter #133
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There's been a lot of discussion here over the last couple of days that seems to suggest that this thread is gotten off track. I don't think it has. The goal is to end up with an inexpensive mildly customized Goldwing, and that's what we should end up with when we are done.

The discussion about checking out the head to see if this swap will work is basic fundamental hot rodding. This is the kind of information that was available to me when I was very young, maybe 10 or 12. It's still valid "technology", but the mainstream motorsport press doesn't seem to think that it will build their readership. I suspect that they're also concerned that it will cost them advertising revenue. A person selling high-performance heads for big money might not be happy to see an article on how to get reasonable results with a couple of afternoons of knuckle busting on your own. At any rate most people won't need to do the research, because I've already done it.

I wouldn't expect anyone to just blindly swap out the heads on their engine just because I say it will work. There needs to be a foundation of information
to show that reasonable care has been taken in designing the modification. And that's what I was trying to show.

I had to spend the last couple of days helping some friends deal with some challenges so nothing's been done for a couple of days. But we're back after it now and by the end of the weekend the head swap should be finished. I also plan to show everyone, step-by-step, what I think is the correct way to go through it head when you're doing a head gasket replacement.

Stay tuned!

Steve
 

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I notice that we've been given a place of honor at the top of the Goldwing Technical Forum. Either that or the software automatically sticks us there after some predefined level of activity. Either way it's very humbling and a little bit scary. I hope we continue to deserve it.
Thankyou
Steve
 

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IMO, the effort is worthy of it. :clapper:

:waving:
 

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SuperSkypilot wrote:



I wouldn't expect anyone to just blindly swap out the heads on their engine just because I say it will work. There needs to be a foundation of information
to show that reasonable care has been taken in designing the modification. And that's what I was trying to show.



Steve

Exactly. I hope you're able to keep moving on it. I love reading this stuff.
 

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Earlier I said all this head swapping compression increase stuff was wasted on me. I was wrong, "go figure".

It did make me stop and consider an earlier occurrence,
When at first I could not get my starter to turn the motor over. I pulled the plugs and still the starter would only click. So I pulled the timing belt covers and tried to turn the motor over by the crank bolt. Going all the way to the left I could not get it to moved and I pulled pretty hard an the wrench. The I tried the other direction. and it turned with some effort spaying me with the penetrating oil(Kroil) that it had been soaking in for several days.
So I turned it back and forth several time and each time it would reach a certain point and stop, no matter how hard I tried to make it go further it would not. I let it soak for a couple more days turned it by hand all the way to the right and tried the starter again and it turned over really spraying the Kroil this time.
The question I have why would it not turn over by hand where the valves hitting and preventing it to make a complete turn by hand and if this is the case then is it possible that I have bent valves as a result and maybe damaged pistons as well or is it possible that things were just too gummed up that it needed the speed of the starter to get past high cam. Any help would be much appreciated. I really don't want to pull the heads if I don't have to.
Thanks in advance
Ed
 

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Hey mistered
Is this an engine you had previously ran or a new to you engine that was stuck sounds like rust and crud in the piston boes was stopping the piston from moving up. A little back and forth worked it free
Wilf
 

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i dont think the thread has gotten off track either supersky

making a bike like the way you are takes TIME and alot of paitence you cant just slap it together i think its lookin good so far for what you have invested keep up the good work
 

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i took the heads off the 1200 motor ...the pistons deck out the same it seems i have a 1100 block and the 1200 right next to each other ....the 1200 piston might not dome as musch as the 1100 but its close .....

it seems that i remember that the early 1000 pistons 75-77 had deeper cutouts than 78 and later....seems like i read where a cam co. had after market cams and in the ad it said if you had a 78 or later 1000 the cutouts had to be deepen

so im not seeing much difference between the two ...but im sure that the cutouts need to deepen some ....i guess i will test fit the 1000 head maybe tomarrow to see whats up myself and work on the cutouts .....

this was a good look in my book ...i cant see the compression being much different at all....
 
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