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The Irish Crew
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Hi folks. My back brake keeps locking up. I pulled the calliper and cleaned the pistons up and bled the fluid, but it locked up after half a mile riding. I can smell the heat from it and I can't ride it like this, the brake disc gets really hot. Any suggestions please?
 

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Did you pull the pistons all the way out and clean out the cavities. Crap get stuck here and prevents fluid flow back to the resivour. Also make sure the both bolts are cleaned and lubricated so the caliper floats. I had to do a parking lot rebuild on my wife's 1100 last night for the same reason.
 

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you might have to do a rear master cylinder rebuild some times you get crud in the return hole which will prevent the fluid returning back to the master cylinder after thr breaks have been applied
 

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..." Been there,Done That/forums/images/emoticons/shock.gif "............. I would just bite the bullet, and remove the rear saddlebag, and  take the caliper unit  to my workbench... and  completely tear it down.. ultra fine sandpaper hone both the pistons, and the bores  and clean out every little nook, and cranny...(nooks are easy to do .. they are bigger /forums/images/emoticons/big_grin.gif...... its the tiny cranny's where the crud lives/forums/images/emoticons/confused.gif) ... and completely flush everything  on the real lines... or... have a dealer do that for you... I once wasted 2  1/2days  ,  screwing around on my old SilverWing  trying to adjust a locking caliber/forums/images/emoticons/sad.gif .. before I just did what we all know should be done... Silver Dave/forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif
 

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I'd guess the problem is in the caliper itself.

If it were the M/C, you'd have trouble with the front brakes as well...Linked Braking System.
 

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Heffo wrote:
Hi folks. My back brake keeps locking up. I pulled the calliper and cleaned the pistons up and bled the fluid, but it locked up after half a mile riding. I can smell the heat from it and I can't ride it like this, the brake disc gets really hot. Any suggestions please?
How do the rear pads look? I'm gonna bet one is worn down a lot more than the other. (Don't worry, I've lost bets before) Often locked up calipers is caused by stuck calipers. If the caliper can't move it's pad will drag heating the whole thing up and making it worse. The only good way to deal with this is as the guys said, take it off and to a complete rebuild. Not hard, not costly, but will have to be done. Lots of details on the forum if you do a search.
 

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Heffro, Just got done putting new rear pads on myself. One pad was almost worn to nothing a nd the other looked real thick. (how did Paul know?).Sure enough the caliper slide pin was frozen. Need tomget new rubber boots for the pin ends, but the caliper seems to work much freer now. As an added bonus, while bleeding the rear line with the mighty vac I sucked all the fluid out of the master cyld.soo I then had the prviledge of bleeding the front and rear lines. Lucky me.
 

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gkiesel wrote:
Heffro, Just got done putting new rear pads on myself. One pad was almost worn to nothing a nd the other looked real thick. (how did Paul know?)
Itwasn't from a college course!:cheeky1:
 

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The Irish Crew
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Thanks every one. I've already stripped and cleaned the pistons and they weren't all that bad to start with. I suspected the MC but someone pointed out that as they are linked the front brake would be seized as well, and that isn't the case on my bike. Is it possible for the MC to go faulty and just affect the back brake?
 

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Tonys96 wrote:
I'd guess the problem is in the caliper itself.

If it were the M/C, you'd have trouble with the front brakes as well...Linked Braking System.

Not so Tonys96had it happen to me 2 years agocomming home from work I thought the same thing the front wheel spun free there was crud in the return hole on rear MC
 

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Heffo wrote:
Thanks every one. I've already stripped and cleaned the pistons and they weren't all that bad to start with. I suspected the MC but someone pointed out that as they are linked the front brake would be seized as well, and that isn't the case on my bike. Is it possible for the MC to go faulty and just affect the back brake?
It's also possible, but not toocommon for the rear brake line to fail internally with a piece of rubber breaking loose and acting more or less like a check valve holding some or all pressure to remain in the caliper.
 

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The Irish Crew
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I'm going to pull & strip the master cylinder and rear line this weekend. Thanks for the help, I'll keep the board posted on this. :waving:
 

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The Irish Crew
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I found the problem. The part of the brake line that bolts to the master cylinder is full of corrosion. I've just left it down to a brake specialist who says he can make up a new one for me on Monday. It seems that the rust was stopping the fluid from backing off the pistons when the pedal was released.
 

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Heffo wrote:
I found the problem. The part of the brake line that bolts to the master cylinder is full of corrosion. I've just left it down to a brake specialist who says he can make up a new one for me on Monday. It seems that the rust was stopping the fluid from backing off the pistons when the pedal was released.
Sounds reasonable Dave, I assume you are replacing the rubber line as well.
 
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