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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am a new member and am very impressed with this website and the layout! I have a problem that maybe someone could help me out with.

My 1980 GL1100 runs, but will not idle (for more than 20 sec) has an intermittent (off and on) backfire at all speeds, always backfires if you open the throttle for hard acceleration. Also, when you close the throttle at speed (40 - 70 mph) you are going to hear some cannon shots!

I was told that it was the carbs, so $200 (kit) and 40 hrs of labor later, I put it all back and it ran exactly the same. I did not find any trash or blockage in the carbs, the old needle/seat looked like the new ones, but I went ahead and put in the new kit parts anyway.

So, with the carbs eliminated, I checked the timing by the belts (by mark only, no timing light) and it was dead on both sides.

Next, the electrical nightmare that I'm still in. According to the Clymer Book, the CDI is ok. Other findings in the Electrical Systems Supplement:

Voltage Regulator/Rectifier: V/R passed test. Could not get any sensible readings out of the Rectifer test. I am not all that good with the ohmmeter. I cleaned the connectors on the Unit and forgot to plug it back in before I started the engine and it ran the same without it being plugged in????????? Plugged it in and it ran the same.

CDI : Did the Ignition pick-up coil test and results were ok. (within range)

Ignition Coil: Did test, but spark at plugs looked weak to me.

The book says: If the ignition coils and ignition pulse generator assembly check out ok, the spark unit must be replaced. Later, it says that tests can be run on the spark unit, but you need to take it to the dealer as you might mess it up. Can you tell me how to check this? I don't want to spend any more money (ie, carb kits) not knowing for sure if this part is the part I really need. If not, can you direct me to a place where I can get the spark unit at a reasonable cost? My spark units have the "tar" leaking down onto the wiring harness (not real bad) like some of you talked about. However, if you put epoxy on the back if these units, wouldn't it hinder it's cooling capacity? Seems to me it's left "open" on the back for cooling purposes?!?!?

I hope that someone can help me out with this . . . driving me crazy.

Robert Ellis
 

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Still Learning
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First off Welcome to the forum Robert

How exactly did you clean the carbs?
What kits did you end up getting and parts did you replace?
 

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Sure you don't have a couple plug wires mixed up?
 

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did you change the anti back fire valves in the carbs
 

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If it is sparking the ignitors are good, fill them with epoxy to keep moisture out. The cooling comes from the metal case anyway. You probably need new coils, those old coils are prone to crack and were weak to begin with. You can either do this mod
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...l-alternative-gl1100s-probably-1200s-too.html
Or get a set of late 90s CBR coils off ebay, a little easier mod as they will just plug in like yours and use the stock brackets.
It does still sound like a carb problem though. Whose kit did you use? If anything but Randakk or OEM you wasted your money. If you used OEM kits or others they probably did not come with the air cut off diaphragms which is likely the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I bought Keyster Carb Kit (made in Japan) off of Carburators.com It seemed like a likely place to purchase from. The kits did NOT have anything for the air cut-offs. I cleaned the parts in Chemtool Carb cleaner (small bucket with tray) I did the short re-build (carbs still on air induction block) in order not to disturb any of the linkage settings as described in the Clymer Book. I am unaware of any anti-backfire valves in the carbs!?!!?

It seems to me that maybe the coils should be replaced. I went to Amazon.com and saw a bunch of coils for CBRs, but I am unsure which ones will fit and work. I don't have a welder, so building some are out. Are there certain year models / bike types that will interchange?
 

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Did you remove and clean the PG up ? What about your slow jets in you're 80 model carbs there, if they are clogged the bike won't idle very good and never will.. Have you tested your vaccum advance?
 

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Welcome:waving:RobertEllis
 

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Read post #6 from Dave. He tells which coils will fit your bike... plug and play.
 

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I bought Keyster Carb Kit (made in Japan) off of Carburators.com It seemed like a likely place to purchase from. The kits did NOT have anything for the air cut-offs. I cleaned the parts in Chemtool Carb cleaner (small bucket with tray) I did the short re-build (carbs still on air induction block) in order not to disturb any of the linkage settings as described in the Clymer Book. I am unaware of any anti-backfire valves in the carbs!?!!?
Well, your cleaning is not complete(short rebuild). Your fuel ports are probably plugged in spots that only a full break down and full soaking/or boiling of the carb bodies, many tiny ports in these carbs.
Did you remove the idle jet screws? They have to be removed also along with the o-rings in below them.
The Keyster kits......Not so good bro.
Air cut offs are always separate.
Buying cheap gets you cheap. Taking short cuts gets the results you have.
 

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I bought Keyster Carb Kit (made in Japan) off of Carburators.com It seemed like a likely place to purchase from. The kits did NOT have anything for the air cut-offs. I cleaned the parts in Chemtool Carb cleaner (small bucket with tray) I did the short re-build (carbs still on air induction block) in order not to disturb any of the linkage settings as described in the Clymer Book. I am unaware of any anti-backfire valves in the carbs!?!!?

It seems to me that maybe the coils should be replaced. I went to Amazon.com and saw a bunch of coils for CBRs, but I am unsure which ones will fit and work. I don't have a welder, so building some are out. Are there certain year models / bike types that will interchange?
You almost certainly destroyed the air cut off (anti backfire) diaphragms with carb cleaner. Sometimes you can get away with minor cleaning if you know where and where not to spray cleaner. You can get them off #1 & #4 without disassembling the rack but #2 &#3 are a problem. Take off the little round covers on the sides of 1&4, you will probably find a mess of black goo.
With every way I could think of to search I never found a CBR coil except the stator coil on amazon. Lots of them on ebay i.e.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-97-Hon...Parts_Accessories&hash=item257a0f68f9&vxp=mtr
 

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CHECK YOUR COILS!!!!!!! Reminds me of the problem I had with my 1100. If I put a hot lamp under bike & a tarp over it the coils would dry out &run fine . My biggest problem (SEVERE BACKFIRING) occurred when bike was cold. Boyh coils had major cracking. I bought stock type coils from "bikebandit.com". It was a few years ago but I'm thinking they cost roughly $70 each. Hope this helps you.
 

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It was all said above. Sounds like air cut offs to be..they are designed to stop backfiring on deceleration and how you clean them might be your issue..coils to could or valves not completely closing??? due to timing off a bit under stress..hard throttle up or down. K&L kits are OK but Randakk's are the best..if you replaced jets with aftermarkets int eh kit that could be a problem too..sometimes they are not the right size..best to keep the originals and clean them well.

Check out Randakk's site for lots of good info http://www.randakksblog.com/site-map/ http://www.randakksblog.com
 
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