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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 79 GL1000 changed to Dynatek DS1-3 ignition, rebuilt carbs. Still get a loud backfire out tailpipe. Using an inductive spark tool, right before the backfire there is a intermittent lack of spark on # 2 but not on #1. Would the Dyna coils help, if so which ones do I need for this system?
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1993 gl1500, 1976 gl1000
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1 and 2 fire from the same coil so I doubt it is a bad coil but it could be a bad or loose plug wire. The Dyna ignitions have had some problems in the past with one module going bad and not firing or firing intermittently. The Dyna also has had a problem with the mounting plate not grounding properly when tightening down the 2 mounting bolts. I had to install star lock washers on the bolts to insure proper grounding of the unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies. I am having trouble finding stock coil for the GL1000, so I thought I would go with the coils to match the electronic ignition. I see that some have used GL1100 coils with some modification. What is the modification?
 

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Thanks for the replies. I am having trouble finding stock coil for the GL1000, so I thought I would go with the coils to match the electronic ignition. I see that some have used GL1100 coils with some modification. What is the modification?
I use 1100 coils on my 1000. There is no modification necessary.
I use them so that I can use my own ignition wire. 1000 coils secondary wire is not replaceable. 1100 coils allow me to replace the secondary wire with a wire of my choice.

I too doubt you have a "coil" problem. You could have a secondary problem on a particular cylinder though. Measure the resistance of each secondary circuit or, remove the sparkplug caps and inspect them. Remove the spring-clips inside the boot and inspect the resistors. Many OE resistors deteriorate and create problems. Misfires are not out of the question leading to a symptom that you describe. Inspect the ignition wire where the boot screws to the wire for corrosion, oxidation, high resistance issues associated with the color black. Trim the wire back in 1/4" increments to fresh wire if found. The only modification there would be to use double clip screws in the boot to give more contact with the plugs threaded end that the boot clips to.

On the primary side, service the electrical bullet connectors from the Dyna unit to the coils by unplugging, brushing and greasing. I use ignition (or dielectric) grease. Don't forget to do the red Dyna power wire and its funky connector. Do the grounds as well. Star washers to the backing plate are really a mandatory service in my opinion.

Backfiring (popping) is usually an indication of too much fuel; a weak ignition or a fuel leak (think: air chamber (plenum) seal, which is usually a visible problem with other symptoms).

The fuel leak is fairly simple to diagnose. With the fuel ON and the bike running on good plugs, ...close the petcock. If the popping subsides once pressure in the air chambers distribution channels for the fuel delivery subside then you can look into that issue.

I'm no Fan of the Dyna "S". Overheating IS a issue with the left, or 3/4 module. A proper ground is mandatory. High resistance issues will develop creating excess heat that cannot be dissipated with that design.
A earlier Dyna III is not prone to this problem, and is worth the cost on the used/spares market because of it. A NOS Dyna III (improperly listed) just sold on eBay cheaper than a new Dyna S.

The Dyna III electronics were miniaturized and incorporated into each of the "S" models triggering units. This is where/why the heat dissipating issue comes into play. A step backwards in my opinion despite the units that have not yet failed.

I mention the Dyna issues because you very well could have a triggering unit going intermittent on you. Very hard to diagnose. Should the 3/4 unit begin to fail (and while "failed" with engine running), tap either the housing or the unit itself (with cover off) and see if it "pops" back to life.

Picture is of the internals of a overheated Dyna S triggering module.
All the "S" modules are the same. Buying a failed (or "bad") module set-up off of eBay for minimal expense could repair any other "S" module by replacement of the "good" module for the "bad".
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks captainmidnight85. I switched the plug wire between 1&2 ant backfire changed to the other side. I replaced the secondary wire up to an inch from the coil with no improvement. If I can find an 1100 coil I will go that way. Does the 1100 coil use a resistor? Also the connector on the 1100 looks different from the pictures I have seen.
 

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Thanks captainmidnight85. I switched the plug wire between 1&2 ant backfire changed to the other side. I replaced the secondary wire up to an inch from the coil with no improvement. If I can find an 1100 coil I will go that way. Does the 1100 coil use a resistor? Also the connector on the 1100 looks different from the pictures I have seen.

So.... you cut the secondary high-tension wire an inch from the coil and somehow spliced-in a different wire?
I believe those wires are stainless steel. With 1000's of volts applied to the wire from the coil you're bound to have problems even if everything was new.

The coil(s) will use the same resistor as the 1000 use.

The black 6-pin connector for the 1000 is different.
The swap is not "plug-and-play".
You will take the 1100 coil "pack" and remove the coils, cutting the blue, yellow and black wires close to the plug.
Remove the 1000 coils from the mount cutting the blue, yellow and black wires close to the coils.
Mount the 1100 coils to the 1000 coil "pack" (aluminum brackets) retaining the 1000 resistor and solder the blue, yellow and black wires at the appropriate length.

Now you're ready to reposition the coil pack in the frame and plug it back into the connector.
Attach the ground to the lower mount for the bracket.
Use SOLID COPPER WIRE for secondary high-tension wire. Suppression will come from the 5K ohm resistors in the sparkplug boots.
Test the set-up by starting the bike and letting it idle. If all is good (to at least the ear) then shut it off and continue mounting the coil pack in the factory manner.

Through all of this effort, new sparkplug boots would be a wise addition.

...for example: I use 8-gauge amplifier power cable for secondary HT leads. I use no resistors in NGK plug boots. I use D7EA NGK plugs. I've dual-clip spring clips. I've other mods.
I've 22Kv at idle.

An edited PS: I have my coils mounted different than the factory arrangement. I forget why I did this though. I don't believe there was a clocking issue with the posisition of the coils in relation to the brackets. I think I did it for my own servicing convenience. I'll have to take a picture of the arrangement if interested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Great information, thanks. The original wires were copper, I had some new copper wires off an air cooled VW. I found a screw the same diameter as the screw in resistor plug connectors and cut the head off, ground down the cut end the same as the pointed end. Screwed the wires together, filled the gap with liquid tape and used heat shrink tubing over that. This was meant as a diagnostic device only.










i
 

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...here are some pictures of how mine are mounted. I mounted this way to help eliminate any cross-firing that might happen.

I have a rubber battery strap that secures the resistor.
The clear tubing (visible on #1 and is the last picture) is a past test of a water-proofing effort on the right bank. I've been in a near-24-hour downpour with no difference in performance of the left and right banks. The rain affected neither side, so the secondary wire I use is good for the elements as to fit to the other components. I've a thread on that stuff elsewhere if interested.
 

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