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DBohrer,

I see, but when we have power on the "hot in on" end of the relay that voltage will go through the circuit as if the ignition key is turned on.

And this will cause the lights to come on.
 

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Yep, that is true. There would be power to the head fuse, starter/reverse switch, dimmer switch which would activate the head light relays.

Good catch...........!!

I should know by now not to question anything you say as you are always right. I don't know too many folks like that...!!

DBohrer,

I see, but when we have power on the "hot in on" end of the relay that voltage will go through the circuit as if the ignition key is turned on.

And this will cause the lights to come on.
 

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Yep, that is true. There would be power to the head fuse, starter/reverse switch, dimmer switch which would activate the head light relays.

Good catch...........!!

I should know by now not to question anything you say as you are always right. I don't know too many folks like that...!!
Thanks a lot to hear such beautiful words from a guru.
 

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Alright, I was with Dave, then I wasn't, now I am just confused. I tried to find a path for the power to flow from the #3 to the dimmer power and it seems the diode should block the path. I'm not doubting there is a path but with all the spaghetti I can't find it. Now I have a headache and quit. Help me please.
 

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Bad Ignition Switch

Relay # 3 always has "load" voltage (even with the ignition OFF).

If the relay # 3 was stuck in the closed position (or if the load and trigger pins were shorted together), there would be voltage on the black trigger wire.


If the Relay # 3 (black trigger wire) has voltage, it will go to the # 12 head relay 5-amp fuse, then from there to the starter/reverse switch (brown/red wire, connector then a brown/white wire), then to the dimmer switch (blue/white wire). The dimmer switch will activate the head light relays # 4 and # 8 depending on the setting.

No diode involved..........!

QUOTE=redwing52;4766201]Alright, I was with Dave, then I wasn't, now I am just confused. I tried to find a path for the power to flow from the #3 to the dimmer power and it seems the diode should block the path. I'm not doubting there is a path but with all the spaghetti I can't find it. Now I have a headache and quit. Help me please.[/QUOTE]
 

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Relay
If the relay # 3 was stuck in the closed position (or if the load and trigger pins were shorted together), there would be voltage on the black trigger wire.




If the point set was closed (or shorted) why would the black wire be hot. Am I missing something? Wrong schematic?
 

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Yep, that is true. There would be power to the head fuse, starter/reverse switch, dimmer switch which would activate the head light relays.

Good catch...........!!

I should know by now not to question anything you say as you are always right. I don't know too many folks like that...!!
Wow. I'm impressed by the 'smarts' contained in these pages. I'm pretty darn good with air conditioning electric and controls, and not bad with most other things. But, these bikes are a real challenge. I guess it doesn't hurt to be working on them a lot, and for a long period of time. You Da Men ! (That's plural, as in both of you)
 

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If the "load" pin and "trigger pin" in the relay was shorted together, the black trigger wire (connected to the trigger pin) would have voltage. This is the same black wire that comes from the ignition switch when turned ON. Except in this case, the ignition switch would be OFF but that black wire would still have voltage (from the load pin). Remember the "load" pin is always hot.....!

Relay
If the relay # 3 was stuck in the closed position (or if the load and trigger pins were shorted together), there would be voltage on the black trigger wire.

If the point set was closed (or shorted) why would the black wire be hot. Am I missing something? Wrong schematic?
 
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