Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,190 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

[align=center]I've copied this (slightly edited) from part 27 ofthe Bikers Workshop area of the site. You can download this actual forum page in pdf format by right-clicking the .pdf icon here and "save target (or link) as" to a location on your computer;

[/align]


Carburettors on Goldwings aren't too difficult to balance/synch, if you have basic mechanical knowledge. The time consuming part is getting at the adjuster screwbehind all that plastic. The GL1500 Goldwings only have two carburettors so the actual balancing won't take very long, compared to Goldwings with four carburettors. Before balancing the carburettors on a Goldwing, you should ensure that the spark plugs and air filter are fairly new or in good condition. It's a waste of time attempting this job if the Goldwing engine is low on compression or burning lots of oil. Make sure the engine is warmed up and the choke OFF before connecting the carburettor gauges. There is a short video clip of the carbs being balanced, link at the end of the page.

For the GL1500 carbs I used my old set of carb gauges. As you can see, there are four of them on the backing plate. As the GL1500 Goldwing only has two carbs, I only needed two gauges and I used the two on the right.



-------------------------------------------------

We need to remove the lower left and right side fairing panels to get at the GL1500 manifolds and the carb synch screw. Remove the lower cowl trim piece as in the first picture by first pressing it in at the top middle and pulling the edges out and up form the cowl. Then remove the three screws holding the cowl in place. When dropping the cowl, be careful not to damage the tabs that hold it in against the lower side fairing panels and disconnect cornering or foglights if they are fitted to the cowl.










-------------------------------------------------

First pry off the plastic clip covering the screw as in the first picture. Note the type of screw used, as shown in the third picture. You must put this one back in the right place. Tip; When refitting this clip later on, a bit of Blutack or similar will stop it falling off and getting lost. Pull the L piece trim away, taking care not to break the tab shown in the fifth picture.











-------------------------------------------------

Now pry off the small black plastic cover at the rear of the running light. Blutack will be a good idea here as well when refitting the cover. The owner of this GL1500 didn't use it and the cover on each side of the Goldwing got lost, which is why you can't see them in the pictures. Note the type of screw used here as well, same as the one mentioned earlier. Now pry the long black trim piece away from the front of the running light. Thefourth picture shows the two normal Phillips screws under the trim piece, remove them. Remove the running light and pull the lower fairing panel away.











-------------------------------------------------

Remove the rubber plug from the right side fan. The adjuster screw for balancing the carbs is about 6" behind and up, and hard to see. I removed the fan so I could get the camera in and the second picture shows the adjuster screw.





-------------------------------------------------

The first two two pictures show the screw on the Goldwings right manifold which you remove and fit the adapter from one carb gauge into, the adapter is shown in the third picture.









-------------------------------------------------

These three pictures show the Goldwings left side manifold. No screw here, just pull the hose off and connect the hose from your second carb gauge. The fourth picture shows the vacuum hose I removed from the manifold, which I plugged with a small bolt. Warning; Make sure the engine is warmed up and the choke is OFF before connecting the carb gauges. Running the engine with the choke on and the gauges connected will probably destroy the gauges. Also do not run the engine with the screw and hose off the manifolds and no gauges connected. This will cause the engine to cut out and be very difficult to restart.









-------------------------------------------------

With the engine fully warmed up and running at around 850rpm (plus or minus 50rpm according to the Honda manual), choke off and the gauges connected, you will probably see at least one of the gauge needles jumping about as the first picture shows. This usually happens and is why there are dampers fitted in-line to the hoses. Slowly turn the damper in until the needle stops jumping, but don't screw the damper in all the way. The second picture shows the gauge needles steady and give you an idea of how much this GL1500's carbs are out of balance.





-------------------------------------------------

The first picture shows the idle adjuster knob, turning it clockwise increases the idle speed and anti-clockwise reduces it. The second picture shows the carbs being balanced by adjusting the screw. You can do this job on your own, but it's easier if you have an assistant and one of you slowly turns this screw while the other watches the gauges and tweaks the idle speed. The third picture shows the needles coming together at the same points on the gauges, ie both carbs are now in synch. Note that the are needles settled in the red zone in the gauges. This isn't really an issue as these type of gauges are universal and work on all sorts of vehicles. The idea is to get the needles to line up at whatever part of the scale they will, while giving a stable tickover. If you try to get both needles into another part of the scale just because it looks better, you may end up with a stuttering engine if indeed you can actually get the needles to move that far. Now give the throttle one or two slight (about 1500rpm max) and short revs when you are happy with the readings to see if they will settle back at the same points on the gauges, but don't rev the engine too high. Finally check the idle speed so that it is around the 850rpm mark. Use your judgement for this. You should be able tell by listening if the idle speed is too high or too low compared to before the balancing job and you can easily tweak this later on if needed.
There is a video clip available (link at the end of the page)which shows me doing my circus act of balancing the carbs on this GL1500 while holding a camcorder, with some help from one of the mechanics in work. It's not a long clip (less than two minutes) but it shows how we tweaked the idle and carbs to get them balanced. The video clip and this article make more sense of the whole thing when used together.









-------------------------------------------------

When refitting the panels, take care that you place the running light tabs between the lower and upper fairing, as shown in the picture. It's easy to get it wrong and put the running light tabs on the outside of the lower fairing tabs. If you do this, the tabs will snap off the lower fairing when you screw it back in place.




[align=center]If you want to download the video tutorial, right-click the link here and "save-as" to a location on your computer. It's a large file but good quality, so will take a while to download. If you have a fast connection then just click the link and play the clip live in your Windows Media Player.

CLICK HERE for the GL1500 carburettor balancing video tutorial (Windows WMV format). 1 minutes, 31 seconds playing time. 16.5 megabytes file size.[/align]
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,790 Posts
imported post

Pretty awsome Steve. Bunch of folks will find this invaluable.

Ride Safe, Ray

:waving:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,190 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
imported post

Thanks for the encoureagment Ray.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
533 Posts
imported post

If you dont own a set of vacum gauges you could try my home made setup. Consists of quarter inch clear plastic hose fixed to a stand in a horseshoe shape. Part fill with 2 stroke oil and connect each end of the hose to the manifold vacum points. All you have to do is get the oil level the same in both sides and the carbs are tuned.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,190 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
imported post

That's a clever setup ulster.
 

·
Best looking member
Joined
·
3,107 Posts
imported post

Where could one find the carb vacuum adapter?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,631 Posts
imported post

Try Carbtune http://www.carbtune.com/, that's where I got mine. You could also try JC Whitney. Alternatively you could make your own using solid brass rod from a hobby store, tapping the end to fit the manifoldand then drilling through the center.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
517 Posts
imported post

"Now pry off the small black plastic cover at the rear of the running light. Blutack will be a good idea here as well when refitting the cover. The owner of this GL1500 didn't use it and the cover on each side of the Goldwing got lost, which is why you can't see them in the pictures."

Gone on my bike too.
Anybody got the part number and a cheap place to buy?

PS
Bluetack?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
181 Posts
imported post

On the '88-'91 (assume the same on all 1500s), it's PN 64215-MN5-000 (L. FR. SIDE) 64216-MN5-000 (L. RR. SIDE), and 64205-MN5-000 (R. FR. SIDE) 64206-MN5-000 (R. FR. SIDE).




My guess is the dealer is your best bet. Bring 'em the part number or you'll end up looking it up yourself like I did with the Helmet Release Knob and Rod...not in the trunk assembly drawings, but in the engine guard assembly drawings :shock: Yeah, really!



Good luck!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,631 Posts
imported post

PS
Bluetack?

You can get this in a craft or stationary store. It is yellow coloured over here. It's usually used to put up posters on a wall. It's called Elmer's Tack putty, tear a piece off, roll it between your fingers into a ball and squish it between the poster and the wall. Very handy stuff.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
54 Posts
imported post

My 1500 doesn't have a screw on either manifold it has vac hose were that screw is but other side is same so how do I balance mine please. I tried doing it your way on vid but it kept cutting out
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
612 Posts
imported post

viking3630 wrote:
My 1500 doesn't have a screw on either manifold it has vac hose were that screw is but other side is same so how do I balance mine please. I tried doing it your way on vid but it kept cutting out
Just pull the hose off and connect the gauge. The engine will cut out if you don't plug the open end of the hose you disconnected, so make sure you plug it BEFORE you start the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
I'm syncing my GL1500 carbs using a liquid manometer I made from tubes and a yard stick. I get it all balanced at idle and then blip the throttle and it's not balanced anymore. It changes from dead even to about 1" difference. I go back and forth tweaking the idle screw tiny bits to make it perfect and then it changes at the first blip. That doesn't seem like a lot with 20" of 2-stroke oil in each side so maybe it doesn't matter. Or maybe it does, I don't know.

And then I start thinking I should really be balancing the carbs at cruising speed, something like 2,500-3,000 RPM which is where it spends most of its time anyway. So I do that but then the balance at idle is more like 2-3" difference between tubes.

Is this an indication of a problem with my 94,000 mile Wing or normal variation in the system(s)?

So, what's the best RPM to balance the carbs to? I know the fully detailed instructions I read and followed in this thread say 800-850 RPM but I get paid to ask questions...
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top