[UbarW]

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I buttoned up the gl1100, got all the fluids in it, and fired it up. I ran it for about 10 seconds, and the whole time it clacked like a diesel. I killed it once I was sure it just wasnt oil not making it around.

It also seems to have no power. Between the two it sounds to me like I managed to get a tooth off when I put the timing belts on. I had painted a tooth, and marked a corresponding spot on both sides before taking the old off. I thought (and apparantly I was wrong) that I was careful.

So the question is, does the clacking and lack of power sound like timing being off a tooth?

ARGGGGh!:crying::crying::crying:

 

[exavid]

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If you haven't done it yet, pull the plugs and turn the engine over by hand to make sure the sound you hear isn't valves and pistons introducing themselves to each other. It sounds as if you might have been more than one tooth off.

 

[UbarW]

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It sounds like one side more than another.

I read my book on setting them back, and will give that a look. I am just so disappointed, as I thought I was careful. As a woodworker, I know the 'measure twice, cut once" rule. I thought I had measure this one three times. Dangit jim...

Tomorrow evening I will see if I can get the radiator forward enough to pull the covers. Update to come.

:shakehead:

 

[mag]

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If it makes you feel any better, when i changed my belts yesterday, I actually spaced out and took my old belts off before putting engine at TDC first! Doh! Definitely had some interference with valves/pistons going on. I kind of estimated how far out the flywheel was from the cam sprockets and just turned the crankshaft pulley carefully by hand (with belts off) and flipped the cam gears until they all lined up. It took a couple of attempts to get past piston/valve interference and turn the engine freely...Whew! When i got the belts on, i kept checking against the T-1 mark all the time. Then i turned the engine 360º by hand a couple of times to make sure everything lined up properly. This is like my fourth time doing timing belts too!

 

[Graham B]

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If I remember correctly, the right hand pulley "drops" when you take the belt off. It's a bit fiddley to bring the pulley up on to it's cam and then fit the belt but it may be the problem.

Good luck and I hope you've not bent anything.

 

[UbarW]

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Well, the clacking wasnt terrible, but it definitely was at the 'ruh roh' level. Something was definitely amiss.

After playing it through a couple more times in my head, I think I may have been a bit hasty on one side.

argh...

 

[dean_3326]

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Graham B wrote:

If I remember correctly, the right hand pulley "drops" when you take the belt off. It's a bit fiddley to bring the pulley up on to it's cam and then fit the belt but it may be the problem.

Good luck and I hope you've not bent anything.

When I changed my belts I put a box end wrench on the right hand pulley bolt and tied it to the crash bar with some small wire, then loosened the tensioners removed the wire and held the wrench by hand to keep it from moving then R&R the belt. That way thepulley never moves.

 

[exavid]

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When I change belts, I turn the crankshaft until the 'UP' marks are right sideup and at 3 and 9 o'clock on each side. I then mark the pulley with a marking pen and mark the case adjacent to the mark on the pulley, do it on each cam pulley. I don't mark the crankshaft since it won't move, but do it if you feel better about it. Then it's just a matter of taking the belts off and slipping the new ones on, tensioning them, check and adjusting a cog or so to make sure the pulley marks still like up with the case marks.

You don'tneed to look at engine timing marks at all really, all you're doing is putting the new belts on in the same relationship with the pulleys as the ones that came off. Once it's done pull the engine through by hand atwo times. The purpose of this is to make SURE everything turns okay, and there's no interference.This gives you a chance to check and see if your marking pen marks will line upagain after two turns of the crank. If not, adjust the belt until it does. If it's okay, put it together and fire it up. That's all there is to it.

You could do it just as well with the pulleys in any position as long as you mark them so you're sure that they are in the same relationship with the crank as they were with the old belt. If it's a half tooth off, don't worry about it. Old belts may have stretched a bit so often they are not going to be exactly the same.

 

[mag]

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This may be a routine question, but after changing timing belts, does one need to re-check valve clearances (they were done in the last couple of months).?

 

[mag]

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This may be a routine question, but after changing timing belts, does one need to re-check valve clearances (they were done in the last couple of months).?

 

[exavid]

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Changing belts won't effect valve clearances.

 

[UbarW]

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Whew! Many thanks to Marco (axelwik) for doing a phone conference with me and working through the cam timing.:cooler:

It seems both were out a tooth, and I still dont know how they got that way, but they obviously did.:gunhead:

I started this whole process wanting to address some weeping out of the water pump hole. I got all that addressed, but since my temp/fuel gauges are shorting out, I cannot be sure if I am running cool. I dont see any other signs of overheating, but the fan is running all the time. Didnt use to. So I guess there is some more sorting out to do.

The good news is that the valves and pistons are still strangers!!!:clapper::clapper::clapper:

 

[mag]

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Glad you worked it out> Marco is very helpful, bless him. I got my belts changed, and seems they are all good. I've had no problems timing the bike with new points!/forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/skipping.gif

 

[Graham B]

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ubarw wrote:

I dont see any other signs of overheating, but the fan is running all the time. Didnt use to. So I guess there is some more sorting out to do.

Sounds like you drained your coolant. Have you burped the system? Might be the cause of the fan running.