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Pulled neg cable from battery run test at 20mA range. Result was 14.85 . I quickly discovered I had no clue how interpret said info. I know my sterio memory is going to draw a little but am I looking at a little or a lot.
 

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14.85 would be a good charging rate.

There will be others who know more in depth numbers but the high 12's is a good battery 14.8 is charging
the manual should also tell you what each value should be.

If you have a multi meter you will also be able to check continuity, resistance in ohms, power in volts and current draw in amps.
 

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I think I ran this test too and got the same reading. My battery don't go down much. It's just the clock and radio....... the key is your reading milli amps. Not much draw in my opinion.
 

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I'm sorry, thats amps, and not running. Looking for drain when shutdown.
 

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You said that your setting was 20mA. If you are pulling 14.85 amps........ I'd say you have a direct short and sumthin' should be smokin'...... better disconnect the battery and find the drain.
 

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Thanks Dancingbear. I didn't think it was much either. my next option is to find out whats daining while its running.pulling more juice than my stator can replace. The longer the ride the lower the battery. the stator is throwing 14.65v at it.
 

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Look at your meter again. Usually there is a 200ma and a 10 or 20A range. If it's on milliamps and it shows 14.85 (key off) it's fine, if it's 14.85 amps you have a problem.
 

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The u is for microamps. You probably won't need that range.
If you had it on 20ma you don't have a problem with battery drain, your problem is likely the charging system not keeping up with the power reqirement when running. Do you have any add on lighting?
 

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No, but its a Interstate so I added a sterio and sirrus. I'm looking into another problem though with the cooling fan coming on before its even up to running temp and i'm assuming staying on until I shut it off.
 

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An mA is a milliamp, which is 1/1000 of an amp. Not a whole lot. A uA is a microamp, which is 1/1,000,000 of an amp. 20 milliamps is about what a small LED flashlight will draw---not much at all.

If you are reading 14.85 mA (0.01485 amp), then that is not an unreasonable number. What you are measuring is the current draw of the stereo with the ignition off. However, you will need to either run the bike every week or so, or keep it charged with a battery tender. I did some calculations and a healthy battery will carry this load for about 10-14 days without causing any starting problems.

Don't confuse volts with amps---quite different creatures.
 

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The cooling fan thermo switch was probably replaced with one from an early Honda civic which goes in the bottom of the radiator and comes on at too low temperature. It has been reported that a switch from a GEO metro will work properly.
The fan running almost constantly could be the cause of the battery going low while running especially at low speed. The charging system is barely adequate to keep up with the normal electrical demand.
 

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14.xx ma on a 20 ma range is OK for a drain of a battery rated 20 AH. In theory the battery can handle 20 Amps for 1 hour, or 40 A for 1/2 hr or 80A for 15 minutes. In theory that is. Applying the normal 80/20 rule then the numbers are 20% rich. But overall you are drawing 14.8 x .001 A or 0.0148 A. Nothing in say up to 2 weeks, which would total around 4.xx Amps loss from the battery. If you use the bike infrequently a battery tender helps maintain the battery but remember to charge at a fast rate every couple of months since tenders have a major fault of not mixing up the electrolyte to compensate for internal sulphating that makes the electrolyte an insulator. Equalizing the battery on occasion would also be of benefit.
 
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