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Hello again all,

I purchased Rudy's Smartlight for my 1500. Yesterday I connected all of the wiring but did not connect any to module. I still needed to fish the LED wire back to the module area. Did that today and also completed the connections to the module and put on the diode to the aux. power.

Went to test unit and battery was near dead. Enough juice to operate the pseudo-warning LED. Nothing else. Nothing appeared on the dash.

Multimeter indicated 2-3 volts. Started bike with supplemental battery. Smartlight works as advertised so all appeared to be wired correctly as per instructions.

Battery is only a few months old and bike started instantly yesterday morning.

Does anyone have any ideas how the battery found have drained overnight. Wires for Smartlight were in place and also connected to battery. Nothing appeared shorted to ground. Any ideas? Thanks!

psu
 

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loose connection dirty connections what the heck is a smart light anyway?
 

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If you connected the Smartlight correctly (and it is pretty simple) it is not the smartlight. You must have left something on/connected to drain the battery that quick. The light only pulls 1/20th of a milliAmp.
 

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Snore,

Perhaps you missed that the Smartlight was not even connected yet. Only the wires were connected to both the battery and aux. terminal. Nothing was on. Key was not in place. This is why I am stumped.

psu
 

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Oh yeah...read that without it registering in da' brain :dumb:

Well I am totally confused along with you :smallpopcorn:
 

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WHATS A SMARTLIGHT?

i never knew lights were smart jeezz when they burn out people gotta change them so they cant be that smart
 

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peterbilt wrote:
WHATS A SMARTLIGHT?

i never knew lights were smart jeezz when they burn out people gotta change them so they cant be that smart
:D:D

Peter...Rudy has a product called smart light......it is a device you install on your wing that does several things....it lets you know if you are in first or second gear, it monitors your alt charging input, and it acts like an alarm system with a flashing red light when your wing is parked. You can check it out in the for sale section on the forum here, up top in the sticky note section.
 

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Monkey with a Football
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psu,
You got something else going on there. None of the harness wires go anywhere except to the SmartModule itself so basically all of your SL wires are just open ended antennas to the points they are connected to.

Maybe something got disturbed or shorted while the installation was going on? Is yours the Traveler or the Gearhead version?
 

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well why didnt someone just say a indicator light
 

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Rudy,

It's the 2.1 Gearhead series for an 88 GL1500. I hope no one interpreted my issue as a question about the product? That is not a concern.

I'm just trying to figure out the fast drain of the battery with only the wires installed. I had previously added a supplemental fuse panel to the aux. connection for a lighter connection to power a TomTom. Could this be an issue?

I've since decided to power this directly to the battery and let the aux. handle the Smartlight.

psu
 

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Monkey with a Football
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psu1 wrote:
Rudy,

It's the 2.1 Gearhead series for an 88 GL1500. I hope no one interpreted my issue as a question about the product? That is not a concern.

I'm just trying to figure out the fast drain of the battery with only the wires installed. I had previously added a supplemental fuse panel to the aux. connection for a lighter connection to power a TomTom. Could this be an issue?

I've since decided to power this directly to the battery and let the aux. handle the Smartlight.

psu
No, the aux power connection is dead when the key is off so that shouldn't be the issue at all. You can run the SmartLight off of the aux completely but you won't have the security feature when the key is off. The rest will work fine.

What I would do in your case is charge the battery fully up with an external charger. Once there, go about your business and frequently check the voltage on the battery. If your alternator were becoming intermittant, you could have this symptom and not know why.

Also, if you know how to use a meter to safely test for amperage drain, you could remove one of the battery leads and bridge it with the amp meter WITH THE KEY OFF ONLY PLEASE. Then see what the off-state current draw on you battery is. It should be less than 5 ma but there should be some draw because of the clock and radio settings and if the SmartLight is hooked up the normal way, it will pull a bit less than 200 microamps (1/5 of 1 ma). Still altogether the draw should be less than 5 ma (the factory max allowed spec).

If it is over that, you need to see what is adding to the draw by pulling the backup fuse and working from there.

If you don't know how to measure amps safely, you may trash your meter trying. There are many many multi-meters out there with burnt out amp measurement fuses or worse.

Either way, you need to start with a fully charged battery and monitor or measure from there. Let us know what gives and we can work from there.
 

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Rudy wrote:
psu1 wrote:
Rudy,

It's the 2.1 Gearhead series for an 88 GL1500. I hope no one interpreted my issue as a question about the product? That is not a concern.

I'm just trying to figure out the fast drain of the battery with only the wires installed. I had previously added a supplemental fuse panel to the aux. connection for a lighter connection to power a TomTom. Could this be an issue?

I've since decided to power this directly to the battery and let the aux. handle the Smartlight.

psu
No, the aux power connection is dead when the key is off so that shouldn't be the issue at all. You can run the SmartLight off of the aux completely but you won't have the security feature when the key is off. The rest will work fine.

What I would do in your case is charge the battery fully up with an external charger. Once there, go about your business and frequently check the voltage on the battery. If your alternator were becoming intermittant, you could have this symptom and not know why.

Also, if you know how to use a meter to safely test for amperage drain, you could remove one of the battery leads and bridge it with the amp meter WITH THE KEY OFF ONLY PLEASE. Then see what the off-state current draw on you battery is. It should be less than 5 ma but there should be some draw because of the clock and radio settings and if the SmartLight is hooked up the normal way, it will pull a bit less than 200 microamps (1/5 of 1 ma). Still altogether the draw should be less than 5 ma (the factory max allowed spec).

If it is over that, you need to see what is adding to the draw by pulling the backup fuse and working from there.

If you don't know how to measure amps safely, you may trash your meter trying. There are many many multi-meters out there with burnt out amp measurement fuses or worse.

Either way, you need to start with a fully charged battery and monitor or measure from there. Let us know what gives and we can work from there.
...many meters have a fuse that, when measuring amps, will blow around5 or 10AMPS rather than actually trashing the meter. I prefer using a 12V testlight to find the draw. Disconnect battery cable and hook alligator clip of testlight to the removed cable. Next touch the probe of the light to the battery post (basically your testlight is in series with the cable end and the post). If the light comes on brightly then you have an excessive draw. A tolerable draw will be barely visible in a dimly lit room.
 

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psu1 wrote:
Snore,

Perhaps you missed that the Smartlight was not even connected yet. Only the wires were connected to both the battery and aux. terminal. Nothing was on. Key was not in place. This is why I am stumped.

psu
Key not in place... Any thoughts on having removed the key in the "Park" position (not off)? I've seen (or done) that a few times...



... that'll drain a battery faster than overnight.
 

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satan wrote: ... that'll drain a battery faster than overnight

DING, DING, DING!

We might have a winner here. Earlier I put the key in the lock position to keep the bars from moving while installing LED. (front tire was off ground to clean wheel more easily)

It's very possible that I could have left it overnight in the park position. Garage lights were still on and I wouldn't notice the rear lights being on. Another lesson learned.

psu
 

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Monkey with a Football
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Nice shot Stan!
I never considered it.
 

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Best thing... thre's nothing to fix :) so get the Smart Light in and get back to riding already ...:action:
 

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psu1 wrote:
satan wrote: ... that'll drain a battery faster than overnight

DING, DING, DING!

We might have a winner here. Earlier I put the key in the lock position to keep the bars from moving while installing LED. (front tire was off ground to clean wheel more easily)

It's very possible that I could have left it overnight in the park position. Garage lights were still on and I wouldn't notice the rear lights being on. Another lesson learned.

psu
And the SmartLight was still doing it's job at the 4v battery voltage. Kind of dimly, though. :coollep:
 
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