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I'm somewhat addressing this question to Nightrider1 because he has been so helpful to me in the past.

But any suggestions from anyone.

I have a new battery in my GL1100I and the brand is a "YACHT" c50-N18L-A3 which was supplied when I bought the bike.

I spent a great deal on repairs particularly when it comes to the electrical. New from starter on up.

When the bike is hot after a run, turn the bike off then bake on and the starter grown, then fires off.

My local Honda shop tells me that this is a inferior battery and asked me how much was paid for this battery. I told him around $85. He told me a darn good battery for this bike cost around $120 and is designed to carry the load with this bike.

QUESTION?

What the heck brand battery do you recommend for this bike with the most crank power hot or cold.

Thanks for your input.

Gary,

vethill
 

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Never worry about your battery leaking again.

http://tinyurl.com/6q7nm7



Made In USA, SVR Premium Battery fits GL1000, GL1100, GL1500and GL1800 is Westco Finest High End Battery. Ships fully charged due to Maintenance Free AGM Design, so battery can beshipped UPS anywhere in the USA.Holds a deep charge far longer than any stock battery and has the highest cranking amps available.
 

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Well if u want a good battery go for the oddessey... bu its 2 expensive.. if u want a good battery that will last for at least 2 years maybe more for 45 bucks. go walmart and buy an every star.
 

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I sure like my Odyssey 680, I don't have the MJ version because I didn't want or need the metal jacket. They aren't cheap but they work well and for a long time. As for your Honda shop rating batteries by their price. BS! Before you get a new battery have your current (pun intended) load tested. Just because your starter cranks slow at times doesn't nessarily mean the battery is the cause. Check the voltage at the starter terminal when you hit the start button. Check the voltage at your battery terminals when you crank the engine to start. There should be 10.5V or better under load. If there isn't either your battery isn't being fully charged or it's in poor condition. If there is then check the starter terminal when cranking the engine, there should be 10V or better across the starter. If there isn't the wiring between the battery and starter could have poor connections or possibly the start relay contacts are in poor shape. If there is 10V or better at the starter and the engine isn't cranking well the problem most likely is with your starter. It's not possible to know where the problem lies without a bit of investigation and testing. If you don't test you'll be throwing parts at the bike and that's the most expensive way to fix things there is.
 

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some of the 18nl style batteries go from to 200cca to 320 cca or so maybe the one you have is a loww coldcranking ampbattery.:baffled: JB
 

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I'll second the Yuasa maintenence free recomendation. Look around and you can get one for $100-150. The way it works is you buy the battery, it comes packed with the acid in a separate plastic container. You add the acid then install the seal cap. The acid is completely absorbed into the plates so from there on out the battery runs dry, so no leaks from cracked case, no worry of freezingand it cranks real strong.
 

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Bagmaster, Old MT man,William 86, Exavid, JBZ, RonKz650 & Morram,

I just want to thank all of you for help, suggestions, and possible problem areas. Like I stated earlier, I have changed out with new everything in the electrical and wiring from starter on up and all connections.

Volt checks at every location suggested. Up to including the new battery.

The problem still happens when I'm out a ride for a while the engine is hot the starter is hot. Shut the motor off, try to start it with in a few minutes and it groan's, then fire's off like it has just barely enough juice to kick over the starter.

The volt meter pegs clear over to the left once the engine's starts the volt meter comes right back up to 13-13.5.

This thing has been driving me nut for the last 8 months.

Thanks guy's. I'll keep working at it.

Gary,

Vethill
 

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I had the exact same problem in an old Ford truck and it was a bad negative battery cable causing the problem. Would do exactly as yours does, start perfect cold, but real slow when hot. Can't explain it really.
 

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vethill, as you can see, it depends on how much you want to spend and who you choose to listen to. Same with oil, tires, plugs etc. everyone has their favorite....Good luck Jim
 

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Vethill,
I read many post on the battery for the GL1100's, and I did make a mistake in the Amp/Hrs due to some reading. I looked in my 1980 GL1100 Owners Manual, and it recommendes a battery with 20 Amps Per Hour, not 10, as I previously mentioned. My Mistake for not reading my manual throughly.Now, I am going to have to replace mine, because I purchased 2ea 10amp/hr batteries. I do not want to burn up a stator. (If that has anything to do with it) I always carry a spare battery. Never know when one will die.
Thanks,
Good Luck,
Nightrider1
 

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Hi Nightrider1,
I can always rely on you for good information.
That being said, of the two recommended battery's stated by some of the others in the info request, which batter is the best for my old wing and has the Amp/Hrs you recommend?
The Odyssey 680 or the Yuasa VTX24HLBS?
Thanks again for all you help.
Gary (Vethill)
 

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The capacity of the battery won't have any effect on the stator. If the AH rating is too low it's not likely to crank the engine very long and will drop voltage more rapidly under load. On the other hand it will recharge to it's full (but lesser) capacity more rapidly. Think of it like a toilet, a 1.6 gallon toilet will refill faster but doesn't flush as well as a 3 gallon one.
 

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vethill wrote:
.... The problem still happens when I'm out a ride for a while the engine is hot the starter is hot. Shut the motor off, try to start it with in a few minutes and it groan's, then fire's off like it has just barely enough juice to kick over the starter.
Note emphasis... May not be an electrical problem at all... if the timing is slightly advanced it will fire before top dead center and resist cranking.. this is common with 1100s when hot.. not much you can do (since timing is not adjustable) but a higher octane gas sometimes helps or a "work around trick" where the run switch is set to "stop", then start cranking and while cranking, turn run switch to "run"... has worked for me.. Jim
 

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Starting the engine by cranking with the kill switch set to kill as Sandiegobrass suggested also allows higher voltage to the starter which will get the engine turning over better then when you hit the kill switch the momentum of the engine will keep it turning even though the voltage on the starter drops when you turn the ignition system back on with the kill switch.

Normally a problem like this is due to poor battery, bad connections to the battery, bad contacts on the starter relay or a problem with the starter. Often just taking the starter apart and cleaning the commutator and brush holder can make a difference. Replacing worn brushes is easy and cheap, bending two little tabs up on the brush holder frame between the end cap and the body of the starter can improve the brush plate ground. Worn bushings in the planetary end of the starter can also weaken its performance. It's worth cleaning and relubing that area. The ball bearings also are known to fail too. If you have a weak starter it's well worth looking at these areas, it's often possible to improve a starter's performance for a small amount of money in stead of laying out $120-140 for a new or rebuilt one.
 

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exavid wrote:
Starting the engine by cranking with the kill switch set to kill..... will get the engine turning over better then .... the momentum of the engine will keep it turning.......
... even when the "kickback" of an early firing cyclinder resists that.(Doesn't have to be a voltage issue.)

As exavid says, "Normally" this type of problem is electrical, but when all electrical components (and voltage) check out, it may be early ignition.. and is stilla problem with my 1100.
 

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Agreed some other causes of kicking back when cranking can be timing too soon which could be caused by a sticking mechanical advance unit on an 1100 or the vacuum advance not operating properly. On a hot engine a build up of carbon can also have a similar effect, a bit of hot carbon can preignite the mixture while a build up of carbon can increase the compression ratio and make it harder for the starter to turn the engine over.
 

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just my addtional 2c (which is now probably only valued in mils) but a sitting battery will soon be a dead battery.... no matter what, get a good trickle/maintenance charger and plug it in if your bike sits any length of time
 

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I just want to say thank you to all you guy's that sent me suggestion and solutions that you have experienced over the years.

I must admit, I looked at all suggestion but the one that believe worked for me was the gentlemen that had the same problem with his old Ford Truck.

I did as he suggested and thus far has worked.

Again, Thanks to all of you. Your all a great resource of knowledge.

Gary (Vethill)
 
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