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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got an 89 gl 1500.
I know nothing about it (how was it maintained) it had a bad battery, and seemed to run good, but I decided I would attempt some general maintenance.
Things I'm attempting:
Change all fluids...
Oil, coolant, gear lubes,air filter and timing belts.
I have drained coolant and removed timing belt covers..
Noticed that the timing Mark's are not lined up where they should be...
So I did not move anything! Instead I put new belts on it according to the Honda shop repair manual.
My problem is that I slowly rolled engine over according to the directions. But my timing Mark's will not line up!
How can I fix this?
 

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02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
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Hi Ben, from god's country, it is cold up there I see.

I'm going to move your thread to the Tech forum as you have already described what is going on.
 

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I just got an 89 gl 1500.
I know nothing about it (how was it maintained) it had a bad battery, and seemed to run good, but I decided I would attempt some general maintenance.
Things I'm attempting:
Change all fluids...
Oil, coolant, gear lubes,air filter and timing belts.
I have drained coolant and removed timing belt covers..
Noticed that the timing Mark's are not lined up where they should be...
So I did not move anything! Instead I put new belts on it according to the Honda shop repair manual.
My problem is that I slowly rolled engine over according to the directions. But my timing Mark's will not line up!
How can I fix this?
It is common for the marks to line up close. If in doubt ask yourself if you could move it one tooth would it be better? If the answer is no then they are right.Many struggle because they think they should line up perfect and they don't. Just ask the question and go for it. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Ben, from god's country, it is cold up there I see.

I'm going to move your thread to the Tech forum as you have already described what is going on.
Thanks,
I'm stumped!
It is common for the marks to line up close. If in doubt ask yourself if you could move it one tooth would it be better? If the answer is no then they are right.Many struggle because they think they should line up perfect and they don't. Just ask the question and go for it. :)
Thank you...
When the center is correct, both outside Mark's are off about an inch from where they should be.
This is where they where all at when the bike was shut off with key.
Worried this is not right...first time attempting this!
Did you change the air in the tires? :devilish:

Welcome to the forum.
Not yet...lol
 

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Thanks,
I'm stumped!

Thank you...
When the center is correct, both outside Mark's are off about an inch from where they should be.
This is where they where all at when the bike was shut off with key.
Worried this is not right...first time attempting this!

Not yet...lol
If it is off that much it is not right. Take the belts off and turn all 3 to align them and put the belts back on. Only rotate the sprockets one tooth or so. Not a turn or even a quarter of a turn. Just the inch you are talking about.
 

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1991 GL1500 Interstate Cinnamon Beige
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Ben, it looks like you're getting a decent handle on your new (2 u) ride. The folks here will be a valuable resource for you in the future, , ,they're a good bunch of experts.

My .02 cents to add is, , these beasts HATE engine oil that has "friction modifiers" because they cause the clutch to slip. Did the oil you put in when you changed the oil have a "blank" bottom half of the donut on the oil? That is where the friction modifiers would be indicated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you..
I'm worried about ruining motor!
Ben, it looks like you're getting a decent handle on your new (2 u) ride. The folks here will be a valuable resource for you in the future, , ,they're a good bunch of experts.

My .02 cents to add is, , these beasts HATE engine oil that has "friction modifiers" because they cause the clutch to slip. Did the oil you put in when you changed the oil have a "blank" bottom half of the donut on the oil? That is where the friction modifiers would be indicated.
Ben, it looks like you're getting a decent handle on your new (2 u) ride. The folks here will be a valuable resource for you in the future, , ,they're a good bunch of experts.

My .02 cents to add is, , these beasts HATE engine oil that has "friction modifiers" because they cause the clutch to slip. Did the oil you put in when you changed the oil have a "blank" bottom half of the donut on the oil? That is where the friction modifiers would be indicated.
I'm not sure...
I decided to go with a recommended 10/40 mobile that I got from the local (car) parts store.
What do you recommend? Why?
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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Standard car oils have additives that can, over time, cause motorcycle clutches to slip. So most manufacturers recommend using a motorcycle specific oil. Valvoline makes one, and of course Honda sells one, too.There are other choices and some people here even seem to like diesel oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Standard car oils have additives that can, over time, cause motorcycle clutches to slip. So most manufacturers recommend using a motorcycle specific oil. Valvoline makes one, and of course Honda sells one, too.There are other choices and some people here even seem to like diesel oil.
Thanks I will look into this!
I can use the other in my car...
 

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02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
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Ben,
the Rotella oils are cheap at Walmart, under $20 / gallon

choose T4 or T6 depending what weight range you want.

I have been using T6 in 5w40 in bike for a couple of years, the shifts are better than the previous oils that I used. Plus, with it being a full Synthetic, you don't need to change it at 3,000 miles.
I change it annually before going to the rallys.

our car has been on full synthetic since the car was new back in 2007, it is changed once a year, and Blackstone Labs says it is doing "just fine"

 

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You better check the position of the crank to the timing marks and then set the cams to their marks before going any farther
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ben,
the Rotella oils are cheap at Walmart, under $20 / gallon

choose T4 or T6 depending what weight range you want.

I have been using T6 in 5w40 in bike for a couple of years, the shifts are better than the previous oils that I used. Plus, with it being a full Synthetic, you don't need to change it at 3,000 miles.
I change it annually before going to the rallys.

our car has been on full synthetic since the car was new back in 2007, it is changed once a year, and Blackstone Labs says it is doing "just fine"

Thank you...
We used rotella in the semi trucks I drove.
Since I'm changing the oil and filter...
I could go to a synthetic, I have used synthetic in some of my older cars with good results.

Since this is my first wing, I'm trying to do what the factory recommends if I'm unsure.
here is a picture I just found using T6 in 15w40


View attachment 321956
That is very familiar...I used it in a 1975 750 four!
You better check the position of the crank to the timing marks and then set the cams to their marks before going any farther
From start to where I am now...
I drained the coolant, un hooked hoses, took off both timing covers...
Looked at where timing Mark's where! All where off...
Took off old belts, then without moving anything...put new belts on according to - honda shop manual.
I turned motor by crank bolt as book says...my Mark's are still off.
Center is on mark...two outside Mark's ore off about an inch each. The bike was running when shut off with key, this is where everything stayed.
You better check the position of the crank to the timing marks and then set the cams to their marks before going any farther
Correct me if...
I need to take new belts off..
Use wrench to turn center (crank) to timing mark...
Then turn each..
Left and right sides to or close to timing marks.
Then replace new belts according to manual!
 

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Thank you...
We used rotella in the semi trucks I drove.
Since I'm changing the oil and filter...
I could go to a synthetic, I have used synthetic in some of my older cars with good results.

Since this is my first wing, I'm trying to do what the factory recommends if I'm unsure.

That is very familiar...I used it in a 1975 750 four!

From start to where I am now...
I drained the coolant, un hooked hoses, took off both timing covers...
Looked at where timing Mark's where! All where off...
Took off old belts, then without moving anything...put new belts on according to - honda shop manual.
I turned motor by crank bolt as book says...my Mark's are still off.
Center is on mark...two outside Mark's ore off about an inch each. The bike was running when shut off with key, this is where everything stayed.

Correct me if...
I need to take new belts off..
Use wrench to turn center (crank) to timing mark...
Then turn each..
Left and right sides to or close to timing marks.
Then replace new belts according to manual!
That seems to be the correct procedure from where you are now. Here is a link to a how-to article on removing and replacing timing belts on the 1500. Skip down to about item 50 and start there. It shows how to check for the correct position of the timing marks.
 

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Thank you...
We used rotella in the semi trucks I drove.
Since I'm changing the oil and filter...
I could go to a synthetic, I have used synthetic in some of my older cars with good results.

Since this is my first wing, I'm trying to do what the factory recommends if I'm unsure.

That is very familiar...I used it in a 1975 750 four!

From start to where I am now...
I drained the coolant, un hooked hoses, took off both timing covers...
Looked at where timing Mark's where! All where off...
Took off old belts, then without moving anything...put new belts on according to - honda shop manual.
I turned motor by crank bolt as book says...my Mark's are still off.
Center is on mark...two outside Mark's ore off about an inch each. The bike was running when shut off with key, this is where everything stayed.

Correct me if...
I need to take new belts off..
Use wrench to turn center (crank) to timing mark...
Then turn each..
Left and right sides to or close to timing marks.
Then replace new belts according to manual!
You said in an earlier post that the crank was right on and the cams were off by an inch or so. If all 3 are off you might be just right if you rotate the crank until it lines up with the crank mark???
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You better check the position of the crank to the timing marks and then set the cams to their marks before going any farther
That seems to be the correct procedure from where you are now. Here is a link to a how-to article on removing and replacing timing belts on the 1500. Skip down to about item 50 and start there. It shows how to check for the correct position of the timing marks.
Thank you so much for the great explaination....
I took the time to read the entire article!
It was very helpful.
Looking at the manual page 7-22 it shows a tool "universal holder"
07725-0030000
I'm guessing that a stick and a couple of screws has the same purpose!
The pictures are also a big help...
Along with the wording that the manual does not explain what to do if your Mark's are not in line when you are putting it back together.

Thank you,
Ben
You said in an earlier post that the crank was right on and the cams were off by an inch or so. If all 3 are off you might be just right if you rotate the crank until it lines up with the crank mark???
Thanks...
I will recheck everything. But did not want to move anything without first finding out what to do...
 

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If the cams are off by an inch there is no danger. Turn the crank all you want as long as it is that close. If all else fails turn the crank to align with it's mark and snap a picture of the cams/marks and post them here. Someone will answer for you. :)
 

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I haven’t done my belts yet on the 1500 but have done 1000,1100 1200 and I think the left side will not stay on the mark unless you use that tool to hold it while you put the belt on.you will get it right but just don’t start it without all three being righ on,get it like you think and post a picture of it so someone can verify it.
do you have a fish scale to set the tension on the belts?
 

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I was just looking for the recommended oil for my Bad Boy Zero Turn, and Wallah!
they recommend a 10w30 Synthetic blend.

google search turned up Advance Auto Parts has Rotella T4 10w30 for $14.00 on sale,
I just bought some online, prepaid, my daughter will pick it up on her next trip to town.


I'm trying to see if it is a JASO oil as our Goldwings don't want a Friction Modifier oil on the Clutch Plates.

Suitable for all on/off highway engines requiring an API CK-4, CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4 or CH-4
 
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