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I have a Clymer manual and I'm trying to make sure my GL1200 voltage regulator works - but the manual talks about the green wire, the yellow wire, the red/yellow wire, but my VR has multiple wires - two green, three yellow, two red/yellow, one black I think. Total of 8 anyway.



Does anyone have a nice clear test for a GL1200a voltage regulator? 1985.



Frank
 

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Put your voltmeter on the battery. Should read no higher than about 13.8 to 14.5 at 2500 RPM.

The 2 green/red are the ground. The 2 green are regulated out to the battery. The black is the sense wire. The 3 yellow are the ouput of the stator and should read 50 volts AC or more at 2000rpm. You measure AC between all 3 of the yellow wires. In other words think of them as 1 2 and 3. you should measure 50 or more volts AC between 1 and 2.. between 1 and 3 and finally between 3 and 2.
 

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jdvorchak wrote:
The 2 green are regulated out to the battery.
That's the key wire for checking regulator output. Most times regulators fail they allow unrestricted voltage to the battery, 16-18 volts isn't unusual when that happens.
 

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" The 2 green are regulated out to the battery"

should be the two reds are regulated output to the battery,and the stator can only be checked when it not connected to the regulator
 

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Just before I last shut 'er off - when my starter died, and I had push started it (another story) I check voltage at the battery and it was about 12.5V I think. (even at 3000 rpm) This is good as far as the voltage regulator, but bad for the stator.

I checked my stator with the engine off, and the voltage regulator disconnected - at the male end of the regulator connector. I got continuity to ground on all three yellow wires, which I understand is bad - should be infinite resistance, right?

But, it passed the other test I've read about - got about 1.2 Ohm between the three legs A-B A-C B-C. I'll know when I get the new starter in and get 'er running and I can check the voltage on the three yellows.

Starting to sound like a poor-boy alternator conversion...

It's not sounding good though.
 

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at least my choice would be a poorboy conv and be done with it,even if was just the regulator i'd spend the rest of the money and poorboy it
 

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All the wires of the same color connect together somewhere (except the 3 yellow wires from the stator) and can be considered as one wire. The stator wires are interchangeable, but should be connected separately. The LTD is even worse, it even has 2 separate connectors. Did you notice how hot the R/R got when the bike was running.
 

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Frank, I don't have a test for the regulator but I do have one for the stator:



Stator Test



1- First, put the bike on the centerstand. Cut the wires on both sides of the stator connector plug. Strip the insulation aprox. 1/2"-1" back on all three yellow wires. Label each wire A, B, and C.



2- With a multimeter, digital or analog, set to read resistance, check each leg to ground for short's. If no short's are found, (o resistance), you're good to go so far.



3- With the meter set to read resistance, check across each leg. A to B, B to C, then C to A. The reading's should be about 3 ohm's. If you read infinite resistance across any of the legs you have an open winding and the stator is bad. If they read good, keep going.



4- A helper is good to have for this next step. With the battery fully charged and the three yellow wire's separated so they cannot make contact, crank the bike. Have your helper rev the bike to 3000rpm after the bike warm's up.



IMPORTANT!!!



You are checking for AC voltage NOT DC voltage!! Make sure the meter is set to read a minimum of 120vac!!



With the bike at 3000rpm, check leg A to B. Note the voltage.

Then check leg B to C. Note the voltage.

Finaly check leg C to A. Note the voltage.



Compare the three readings. They should be between 50-70vac plus or minus about 5vac per leg. If they read good, chances are you've got a bad regulator.





Try this test when you get your starter installed and we'll go from there!!:cool:
 

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Thanks Don - I'll do that. If the stator is bad, I'm poor boying it. I want to have this electrical trouble behind me and easily fixed. The rest of the bike is great.

Frank
 

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Frank vH wrote:
Thanks Don - I'll do that. If the stator is bad, I'm poor boying it. I want to have this electrical trouble behind me and easily fixed. The rest of the bike is great.

Frank
I'm doing that too, but not right now. It is too hot here to enjoy riding, so I disconnected the headlight and tail light, leaving just the turn signals and brake light, and have been riding it around on just the battery, which I keep on a charger while not being ridden. Just in case, I have a jumpstart pack in the trunk, with wires that can be connected to the battery terminals to power the ignition and fuel injection if the bike battery goes dead. I will be doing the poorboy conversion after summer is over. Meanwhile, I am trying to collect as much information on this conversion as possible, mostly on how the bracket mounts, and what grinding needs to be done on the bike frame.
 

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Interesting post Jerry: I was thinking after I get my starter fixed, if I find I need to do the poorboy, of trying to ride for a while anyway. (at least til the poorboy parts arrive) Did you pull fuses to disconnect the headlight? How far have you gone without recharging the battery? I was thinking of commuting to work that way for a while - it's 25 miles each way. I have two good batteries, so I could just keep swapping and charging.
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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I had my battery fully charged and easily rode 150 miles home, last time my stator gave out. That was with all non-essential fuses removed.
 

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Yes I pulled the fuses. On a carbureted bike you should be able to go several hundred miles that way, the ignition does not draw a lot of current. On my LTD, the battery also has to power the fuel injection, but I'm still guessing over 100 miles. If I put a car battery in the trunk, I could probably ride it coast to coast.
 

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Thanks thats good to know. I think I'll ride it that way until the Poorboy parts come in and a good rainy day presents itself to spend a day in the garage doing the poorboy. Still waitin' on the starter though - my guy in Ottawa has it on backorder - so I won't have it for two weeks.
 

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I've been riding mine about 30 miles round trip to work most every day. Mostly just to keep it from sitting. I have the left sidecover removed, so I can get to the battery. When I get to work I hook up a charger to it, then when I get home I hook up a charger to it. I've been riding it that way for a couple months. I really dread to work on it out in the 115 degree heat. Recreational riding around here is pretty much a winter time activity.
 

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just a quick question guys...
each of the three stator wires at idle reads about 30 volts and fluctuates...
when its all connected it reads just under 12 volts at the battery and increases with the rpms up until you hit about 3k.. then it completely drops out.. let it return to idle and it starts all over again...
its like the charging system completely cuts out... stator tests good battery's good... im thinking R/R... i just clipped the black wire at the R/R and the voltage regulates normally now no dropping out it just increases with the rpm's... any ideas.??

Tony
 

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have you checked that the connector at the solenoid has a good connection,the regulator output goes thru that connector to recharge the battery
 

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Thanks to all for sharing the wealth of knowledge. A month ago I bought an 87 GL1200I with 15k miles on her. She has a blocked low speed jet in one cylinder, but I rode her for 3k miles putting up with the poor carburetion and loving most everything else about riding the Wing. Yesterday at a stop sign when I clutched to shift into 1st, the engine quit. Voltage on the battery then was 11.1. Voltage half our later was 11.5, still not enough to start the bike. Good Samaritan charged the battery enough to start, but voltage to battery did not change when revved. I was so lucky to get her home when the engine quit again just as I rolled in my driveway (very weird).


Oh what fun I am having now to troubleshoot this electrical problem! I charged the battery, which is in good shape and took almost 15v. I snipped the connectors out of the 3 yellow wires and stripped the ends. Now it is time to get the multi-meter out and check the stator ... almost as much fun as riding ... NOT!!
 
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