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Discussion Starter #1
My 1988 gl 1500A ( with 15,800 miles) runs pretty well when in nuetral but dies when placed in gear. The clutch is not stuck up. The kill switch, 2 clutch switches, the reverse switch, side stand switch, nuetral switch, 7 diodes (5 at the rear, 2 on right front side), the Bank angle sensor, the reverse relay switch, power relay switch, fuses, and relays on the left side relay box, two other relays at the left rear side and the relay on the left side of relay B, all tested good.
When ignition switch is placed on " ON" position, nuetral light, reverse light, oil light, cruise indicator light, all lights up momentarily. Nuetral light remains lighted. Fuel level indicator light does not come on.
When in reverse, the reverse light does not
come on. Reverse operates only around 2 seconds.
I haven't tested the gear indicator switch because space is too tight. I tested the reverse power unit too. Body ground is clean. Can't find anything wrong.
I have continuity on white/green wire (from the reverse control unit) with green wire. The green/red wire has power all the time. Can somebody tell me what I am missing.
 

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How old is the battery? Remember to check the simple stuff first. If the battery is low it may start the bike but reverse won't work.

Right now I can hear you saying, "it's not the battery." Test it to be sure or jump it from a known good battery.

Good Luck! Let us know what you find out?


Rayjoe
 

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I can't seem to find my 88 electrical manual but just off the top of my head does it crank when in gear if you pull the clutch in with the side stand up?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The bike doesn't start when in gear and clutch is pulled in to the lever. Battery is good. It's just 6 months old. Battery voltage is 12.86 v. When running in nuetral (on center stand) at 1,500 rpm, voltage registers 17 volts.
 

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The bike doesn't start when in gear and clutch is pulled in to the lever. Battery is good. It's just 6 months old. Battery voltage is 12.86 v. When running in nuetral (on center stand) at 1,500 rpm, voltage registers 17 volts.
The side stand switch is not making the connection somewhere, it should crank in that condition.
Your charging voltage is a bit too high too.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I know that when side stand is up, the nuetral switch provides the ground. Both switches are working as they should. When side stand is down, the indicator light is ON. The center tip of the nuetral switch v.s. ground has continuity (wire still attached). When I removed the nuetral switch and tested it's inner tip with the outer tip for continuity, it has no continuity; either pressed and not pressed.
 

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I know that when side stand is up, the nuetral switch provides the ground. Both switches are working as they should. When side stand is down, the indicator light is ON. The center tip of the nuetral switch v.s. ground has continuity (wire still attached). When I removed the nuetral switch and tested it's inner tip with the outer tip for continuity, it has no continuity; either pressed and not pressed.
That switch is a single poll double throw switch. (SPDT) There are 3 wires on the switch.

One is a ground and is dark green.
\One is a green wire with a white stripe.
One is a yellows ire with a black stripe.

In simple terms where your issue is concerned it works like this. With the stand up there needs to be continuity between the dark green wire (ground) and green/white wire.

The green /white wire goes to the ECM and signals the ECM the stand is up.

If you shift in to gear and the green/white is not seeing a ground at the ECU it will think the sidestand is down and shut the engine down so you can't ride with the sidestand down.

So..the dark green wire has to be grounded all the time. The green/white has to be grounded when the sidestand is up and open when the sidestand is down.

Good chamce your issue is right near the switch on the sidestand. Wiring or the switch itself.


Screenshot (205)_LI.jpg .
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The green/white wire has continuity when bike is in 1st gear.
 

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The green/white wire has continuity when bike is in 1st gear.
By continuity do you mean ground is present? If so the wire might be broke between the spot you test and the ECM.

Find the green/white at the ECM and check for ground with sidestand up. If you have ground at your test point but not at the ECM you can add a jumper wire between those two points or search out the broken wire.
 

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1998 GL1500 Asp and 2017 GL1800 4AC
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1993 GL1500 Aspy 1980 GL1100 STD
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I didn't read this thread very close, I thought it was the same guy posting in both forums.... 🤣

Mel, go check out the other thread, too, but that bike is a '94. I'd dig in deeper but I don't have '88 schematics.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Partly yes. Which wire do I have to check?
By continuity do you mean ground is present? If so the wire might be broke between the spot you test and the ECM.

Find the green/white at the ECM and check for ground with sidestand up. If you have ground at your test point but not at the ECM you can add a jumper wire between those two points or search out the broken wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The first test I did on the green white and ground is at the side stand switch connector. I did another test on the green/white wire coming from the ECM with that of the ground. There is continuity on both tests.
I have read all previous post on this forum relative to the subject. That's why I was able to check everything I mentioned in my previous post.
 

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If that green/white wire has ground at the ECU with the side stand up but not when it's down that pretty much narrows it down to the ECU itself.
 
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What Dave said!! :) :cool: At the ECM Green wire with white stripe!! Ground when up!!! Open when down!!!

Are you testing for ground using a test light clipped to battery positive?
 

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I read the thread on the other forum. I just wonder who that DenverWinger guy is????? :p:):rolleyes:
Right here.
Too bad I don't have '88 schematics. But the next check will be to be sure the GRN/WHT wire at the ECU has ground with the side stand up. Also check the ECU connector, the other guy's problem was the connector was loose. Check also for loose or corroded connector pins.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I am using DVM in measuring for continuity. I just tested the green/white wire v.s. the negative pole of the battery (with engine running) and side stand down. THERE IS CONTINUITY. So, the ECM is busted?

Thank you for all your replies. I have already ordered ECM on ebay even before my first posting. I already suspected that after thorough testing of the different parts that I've mentioned before, only the ECM remains to be checked. I just don't know how to confirm it. I'll keep you posted when I've replaced my ECM with that of the one I've ordered on line.

Thank you guys.
 

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I have a digital copy of the 1988 and newer Honda Service Manuals. From what I see, and I am certainly no expert, the circuits concerning the side stand switch to the conrol module are all the same.
Here are a few extracts for you to peruse.
 

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