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Within the past 6 months, this bike has been running badly.
It started (popping) backfiring in the air plenum and carbs, little bit at a time.
Got to the point where I'd run 65-75 MPH on the interstate, the bike would die.
All electrical still good, idiot lights still on, radio, etc all still on. I would try to pop the clutch, trying to get it running while moving to no avail. I had to pull over, I turned the key off, then on, tried to start, nothing. Turned the key off for about 3-4 minues, the bike started right up, I was able to continue with no issues after that.
This has happened just about every time I ride it now.
It did something similar 2.5 years ago, at that time it ended up being the known electrical problem within the solenoid and plug melting down. I purchased the mod kit from Honda and this stopped that issue.
I have pulled the fuel pump and checked output, I have replaced the timing belts.
Replaced plugs, checked voltages at the battery and alternator charging. Checked all the wiring at the solenoid and rectifier. Synched the carbs last weekend.
It has terrible first and second gear pickup and lousy gas mileage, only 29 to 30 MPG.
I'm running out of ideas here, has anyone had similiar problems?
I love riding this thing, I have a '98 Valkyrie 1500, but this old goldwing still rocks!
 

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next time it does that try poping the gas cap loose.
 

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had similar problem to this once on a car it turned out to be the HV coil
 

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vilar332a wrote:
Within the past 6 months, this bike has been running badly.
It started (popping) backfiring in the air plenum and carbs, little bit at a time.
Got to the point where I'd run 65-75 MPH on the interstate, the bike would die.
All electrical still good, idiot lights still on, radio, etc all still on. I would try to pop the clutch, trying to get it running while moving to no avail. I had to pull over, I turned the key off, then on, tried to start, nothing. Turned the key off for about 3-4 minute's, the bike started right up, I was able to continue with no issues after that.
This has happened just about every time I ride it now.
It did something similar 2.5 years ago, at that time it ended up being the known electrical problem within the solenoid and plug melting down. I purchased the mod kit from Honda and this stopped that issue.
I have pulled the fuel pump and checked output, I have replaced the timing belts.
Replaced plugs, checked voltages at the battery and alternator charging. Checked all the wiring at the solenoid and rectifier. Synched the carbs last weekend.
It has terrible first and second gear pickup and lousy gas mileage, only 29 to 30 MPG.
I'm running out of ideas here, has anyone had similiar problems?
I love riding this thing, I have a '98 Valkyrie 1500, but this old goldwing still rocks!

Hello Vilar332A!:waving:

As I was reading your post here, I was thinking almost immediately that if you are confident that the carbs are synced & clean then this is the fuel pump or the pulse generators or an electrical issue..

Firstly, You didn't state the results of the fuel pump test..

Secondly, was the bike running poorly before the timing belt change?

Thirdly, what about the ground running from the battery to the back of the engine? Is it Good? tight? clean?

This can be the Achilles heel right here. Bad groundequals bad running bike.:whip:

This is also the first thing to check after you are happy that the carbs & fuel pump are in good working order.

Once this is cleaned, I would really get down to checking all your vacuum hoses especially the one leading to the ECU that is located near the air box.

Again, Bad vacuum results in the bike not running right since the spark(ECU) will think the bike is not doing anything other than idling.

I have seen personally after a backfire on my 1200, the vacuum hose pop off the left rear intake down spout.

Lastly, (Okay, almost lastly...):( You didn't mention replacement of the fuel filter..

I can only imagine that you did since you have done all this other work.

Final check is the airbox puke tanks thatare often neglected. If they fill up with residue water/oil then your bike will run like crap. (I don't know for sure why but it will)

The first one is located right behind the airbox and the second one is located down by your left foot peg.

This is the one that fills up the most.

Good luck with this and keep us posted!

 

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I have changed the fuel filter and lines, also when checking the fuel pump, the pump put out just what the book called for 16.9 oz. in a minute.

While thinking of this, I remembered vehicles vapor locking when I was younger. This is what it mimicks, although it could also be vacuum or electrical.

When pulling off the gas cap, there is alot of pressure in the tank. I have heard of drilling a tiny hole in the cap to alleviate any pressure. This bike is not fuel injected, so......

Tip on the gas cap, I will try and also all the vacuum lines and drains.

I will re-synch the carbs this weekend, just to make sure there are where I left them last weekend.

Bike started running poorly, reason for the change in timing belts, plus being old.

Thanks:?
 

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It could also be a bad coil or ignition wires..

If you are brave enough, pop one plug wire at a time to see if a cylinder goes dead on you.

Use some insulated pliers of some type to prevent a jolt to the system (Human that is...):cooldevil:

I would try the loose gas cap trick first before drilling any holes myself..
 

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try to un-goop the poor old ignition switch?....main fuse...ig fuse/ or bad relay.... pickups going funny/old or ? from the belt change?
 

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What year 1200 do you have. It sounds alot like what I've heard concerning the Pulse Generators. On my 84 they're on the back on the motor, real PIA to change. On the 85 to 87 they're on the front of the motor.
 

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the reason i mentione dcoils is when the start to break down they short out when they are hot, the bike then cools down and the wire is not shorted out allowing the bike to start again, you seem to be looking at something that is building up over time though
 

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You said you got lights and it cranks but doesn't turn over... Bad pulse generators cause your problem when they get heated up, and once cooled off, they'll turn over and run for about 15 minutes.

Carry a spare spark plug with you, next time it dies on you, pop off a plug wire and use your spare spark plug to check for spark on one side. If you don't got spark on front or back plugs on one side, it's most likely a badpulse generator. Then go to vencowings to buy a set, cheapest place that I've found and they got stock Honda PG.

Or if you don't like the idea of riding a bike that might leave you stranded, and you got a meter, then pop off the4wire PG pigtail on the left of the battery and check for resistance between the pairs(I can't remember the combo pairs right now, maybe someone will chime in with the colors, if they don't then PM me and I'll dig out the manual). You'll be looking for 200+ ohms per PG pair. If you don't have at least that on a pair, then it's a badPG for sure.

Or sell me your bike.:cooldevil:

Good luck.
 

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This problem seems to be fairly common on old wings. Replace the main fuse. There is probably a hairline crack in it that expands as it heats up. This happened on my 1980 1100. When I checked the fuse it looked fine upon visual inspection, but when I loosened the screws that held it in place, the crack became apparent.
 

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Well, this past Sunday between watching the playoff games, I went out and proceeded to check the airbox dump tanks. The lowest one on the left was 1/2 full of liquid( I emptied it), the upper was clear. I pulled the lower fairings and rechecked all the vacuum lines, all good. Checked wiring to the pulse generators. I pulled the 30amp dogbone out of the solenoid. I have since ordered a different type (one with the spade type), although I have completed the Honda modification to this wiring, I will install the new type.
I checked the spark at each cylinder. I then proceeded to synch the carbs again, but really need vacuum gauges, the manometer I have is not as accurate as I'd like. Bike sat and ran for quite some time without dying. I did leave the gas cap cracked. I ran into another problem delaying a ride, the front brake has locked up.
I will now pull and rebuild the front caliper and master cylinder...... Always something!
Thanks for all the input, I am trying all ideas as I get time.
 

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Just remember, the 1200 has a linked brake system, meaning the rear brake master cylinder also controls one of the front brake calipers. If this is the front caliper that's locking up then you'll have to bleed both it and the rear brake after repairs are made.

How about updating your profile to indicate where you live? You may have a member nearby close enough to help out or even to ride with. Like if you lived within 50 miles of me I have a set of gauges for syncing the carbs that I'd be willing to bring over and do it for you. Just did a 1200 yesterday for another member and he loved the way his 1200 ran after I finished.
 

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When you hear that "Swoosh" when opening the gas tank, it may be a sign that your gas cap is pluged. It stopped me on the interstate twice one day last summer. I simply cut a slice in my gas cap gasket and it has never stopped again. (and no more "swoosh".
 
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