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This is the third time this has occurred. After I open it up a bit, once I come to a stop, it wants (and does) stall. It will do this for a while until it's better at some later point, but it never runs as good as when I first start and ride it. I know for certain that the carbs need to be re-built, but would that cause such a condition or is it electrical in nature? My gauge shows 13V most of the time, but after the above riding does dip down to 11 sometimes. I usually run with the hi-beam light on since the low is very dim. Switching to low beam, naturally, does improve the situation and the volts return to 12V or so. 
 

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sanfelice wrote:
This is the third time this has occurred. After I open it up a bit, once I come to a stop, it wants (and does) stall. It will do this for a while until it's better at some later point, but it never runs as good as when I first start and ride it. I know for certain that the carbs need to be re-built, but would that cause such a condition or is it electrical in nature? My gauge shows 13V most of the time, but after the above riding does dip down to 11 sometimes. I usually run with the hi-beam light on since the low is very dim. Switching to low beam, naturally, does improve the situation and the volts return to 12V or so.
sanfelice, it would really help us help you if you could give us more information on HOW it stalls?.

Does it just idle down & quit outright? Or does it kind of load up with fuel & blubber until it slowly quits?.. Or doe sit quit as soon as you let up on the throttle control & pull the clutch in?

How it acts as it quits will help point us towards the offending area Like carbs, electrical, or engine mechanical..


If it runs better when first started,, idles better cold than hot,, & stalls after a hard run,that kind of points towards a rich set idle system or failing air cut-off valve(s)..


Twisty
 

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when I first got my 1000 and still even now the voltmeter does the same thing as yours. I have checked it out, the problem is in the voltmeter not the altnator. I would susupect that is the culprit on yours, especially if it holds a charge
 

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Twisty, it just stalls after coming to a stop or basically when I am not giving it gas. I replaced the cut-off valve earlier this summer and things improved slightly. My insanely horrible gas mileage became just "horrible," something like 25mpg for city riding where it remains today. It does have a "burble" effect when it stalls and would seem to be carb-related to the uninitiated (me) when considering all the above. Thanks for the help.
 

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sanfelice wrote:
Twisty, it just stalls after coming to a stop or basically when I am not giving it gas. I replaced the cut-off valve earlier this summer and things improved slightly. My insanely horrible gas mileage became just "horrible," something like 25mpg for city riding where it remains today. It does have a "burble" effect when it stalls and would seem to be carb-related to the uninitiated (me) when considering all the above. Thanks for the help.
Sure sounds like carbs need work.
 

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Make sure your vent hole in your gas cap is clear?

Might be a 1/2 clogged screen in carbs (float)? Or fuel filter?:baffled:
 

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sanfelice wrote:
Twisty, it just stalls after coming to a stop or basically when I am not giving it gas. I replaced the cut-off valve earlier this summer and things improved slightly. My insanely horrible gas mileage became just "horrible," something like 25mpg for city riding where it remains today. It does have a "burble" effect when it stalls and would seem to be carb-related to the uninitiated (me) when considering all the above. Thanks for the help.
sanfelice, with that poor fuel mileage & the stalling at hot stopping it sure sounds like a rich running fuel system.

While it could be about anything I would start with the enrichener (choke) system & make sure it is adjusted correctly &returning to the "fully off" position,, then verify the air cut-off system is operating correctly & doesn't have a plugged hose or inlet & the valve is functioning correctly. Verify the float levels are within spec & that the floats aren't fuel logged & sinking slightly.. Other than that, just make sure the carbs are adjusted correctly, synced correctly, & a proper idle drop adjustment has been done on the pilot needles..

Twisty
 

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Usually a "burble" affect indicates gas purculation in the fuel bowls.. Is the engine running hotter than usual when you push it? Purculatiion is actually a boiling of the gas, which would flood the idle circuit in the carbs, hence, stalling. What does the exhaust smell like just before stalling? Does it smell like a rich mixture and almost burn your eyes?
 
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