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I GOT MY BIKE STARTED AND RUNNING, TOOK OUT FOR A SHORT RIDE AND THEN BROUGHT TO IT BACK TO CONTINUED TO ADD MORE PARTS. THE POORBOY CHARGING SYSTEMIS PUTTING OUT 14.5 VOLTS @ 3000 rpm AND THE SYSTEM IS WORKING GREAT. I SHUT DOWN THE BIKE AND THE BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED. NOW THE BIKEWILL NOT CRANK. THE SWITCH IS IN THE RUN POST ION AND THE 30Amp FUSE IS NOT BLOWN (Solenoid). THE NEUTRAL SWITCH IS OPERATING CORRECTLY. WHEN I PUSH THE START BUTTON, I HEAR THE FUEL PUMP CLICK AND THE Solenoid CLICK BUT THE ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK. I THEN USE A JUMPER WIRE ON THE Solenoid AND THE BIKE CRANKS AND STARTS. IS THERE SOMETHING I AM MISSING HERE, IS THERE AN IN-LINE FUSE/RELAY SWITCHTHAT THEREPAIR MANUALS DOES NOT SHOW? :(

ANY IDEALS?
 

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Could possibly be a loose ground somewhere. Recheck your battery connection for tightness.
 

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Does your headlight go out/dim with the start button depressed ? You're gonna' have to get into the wiring schematic, mines on loan ... :gunhead:
 

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If it starts when you jump the solenoid, then the solenoid is the problem, I would think.
 

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You need 10/11v.d.c to the solinoid, if you're still using that "Dog-Bone" fuse from Honda, double-check it for hair-line cracks... :gunhead:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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it is the original dog-bone fuse and I am looking at replacing the fuse or trying to find a new one, OEM is 95.00 dollars or where can I an aftermarket one?
 

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Several guys have spliced in an automotive blade style fuse holder. The fix is cheap and fuses are readily available at any auto=parts store. You can do a search for "Replacement fuse holder", I know the link is here somewhere. Maybe in the Reference/FAQ section.



I believe the Red/white and Red wire is on one side of the fuseholder, and the other side goes directly to the positive side of the battery. Do a search to be sure...:gunhead:


http://gl1200goldwings.com/techcenter/article1004.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
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THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP, I'LL TRY IT. I TOOK THE OLD DOG BONE FUSE OUT AND DID NOT GET AND POWER TO THE BIKE. I RE-INSTALLED THE FUSE AND THE BIKE HAD POWER BUT I STILL HAD TO USE A JUMPER TO START THE BIKE I FOUND AN AFTERMARKET ONE WITH A BUILT-IN SPADE FUSE HOLDER FOR 23.95 FROM E-AY. NEXT TIME I AM IN PA, WE GET TOGETHER AND RIDE A LITTLE
 

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For fun - put a paperclip across the dogbone screw terminals. Don't use it permanently, but try it.

The problem with the dogbone is - it gets little hairline cracks and never LOOKS like it has a problem.
 

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I FOUND AN AFTERMARKET ONE WITH A BUILT-IN SPADE FUSE HOLDER FOR 23.95
Goodness. Autozone has them for about $5. :shock:



And I agree about the solenoid, if you're jumping it the thing is defective. Please don't go spending wads of cash on parts before you check with these guys first. Someone mentioned a Ford solenoid can be used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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Thats great I will run down to Autozone and see what I can find out. If I do not have any luck finding this part, would you know the part number off hand or any infro will be great. I will repost here about an hours. ford?
 

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Not bad for OEM, but you can get a non OEM soltion for cheaper. Look for a 30 amp fuse holder and blade to go with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
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THANK YOU ALL, YOU WERE ALL CORRECT!!!! I FOUND AN OLD REPLACEMENT Solenoid ON E-AY FOR SIX DOLLARS. I RECEIVED TODAY AND PLACED IT ON THE BIKE AND SHE STARTED RIGHT UP. IT IS STILL THE DOG BONE FUSE BUT NOW I KNOW IT WAS THE Solenoid. I CAN OLD THE NON-OEM WITH THE SPADE FUSE FOR $23.95. I OWE YOU GUYS A DRINK. THANK YOU AGAIN. :action:



OFF TO THE MUFFLER SHOP TO INSTALL THE SPORTSTER MUFFLERS TOMMORROW AND THEN TO SYN THE CARBS.
 
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