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i've done something wrong while bleeding brakes

#1 removed fluid from front brake res. topped off with new dot 4 fluid.

#2 hooked up hand pump to left side(as per thread how homemaid hand pump)

#3 pumped by hand had some fluid come through , not a lot, then came the bubbles and res. didn't hardly go down any then it just stoped comming out. but cover back on res. it was still full. then tried front brake lever. seemed okay then tried foot brake nothing .looked inside res. and it was empty. topped it off still no rear brake.. what am i doing wrong??
 

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Didnt I just read in a post that on the 1500 the left caliper is combined with the rear.
I know on the 1200 it is the right side caliber combined with the rear.

Could be wrong as I dont have a 1500
 

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sounds like you have been looking at the wrong reservoir, you need to bleed it again and keep an eye on both reservoirs
 

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okay i will try it again. thanks do i keep the lid off both reservois??
 

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another question since i am usind a spray bottle,as my mighty vac. do i continue to pump it until the clear hose is full of dot 4?? because mostly if i keep pumping it i get alot of bubbles and just a little fluid,or am i still doing it wrong?? thanks
 

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Use some teflon tape on the threads of the bleeder that will stop air ingress and allow the pump to do the job more effectively.
 

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new pads , fresh fluids,everthing back together, just came back from short test ride,all is fine ...... thanks for all of your guys help with the brakes pads.and bleeding.

kevin
 

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Ole Guy
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You have trapped air and need to pull it out. This gadget will do it.



Try This:

Power Vacuum Bleeder: Simple and Homemade

What you need:
•Strong vacuum source (car engine or Shop Vac)
•Large glass jar for collection container
•Clear ¼” and 3/8” plastic line – it’s cheap and found in the plumbing section
•Vacuum kit/adapters if needed – I used pieces of the above hose
•An assistant will be most useful to pour fluid
•Common sense -- stop here if you don’t have it or are accident prone



How it works: This method uses a strong and constant vacuum to pull the fluid and air out through the bleeder quickly and easily -- there is no pussyfooting. The vacuum method is not new, but this method is inexpensive and the surest method to purge trapped air. With strong and steady suction, the both air and fluid are swiftly sucked out the bleeder.



Setup: Two snug holes are drill in the jar lid and then two pieces of hose are cut to length as needed. The 1/4” hose is the vacuum hose and it goes in one inch. The 3/8” hose is the bleeder suction hose and goes to the bottom. The 3/8” hose is used here because it fits on the bleeder fitting. Don’t add fluid to the jar -- it fills quickly. Open the reservoir filler cap and fill to brim. Open the first bleeder wide for maximum flow – it’s important. Attach the ¼” vacuum hose below the throttle plate vacuum somewhere and then apply the 3/8” bleeder suction hose to the first bleeder. Suction out a few ounces or until its looks clean then move to the next. If your system has any of the extra components like equalizers for front/rear brakes or anti-lock brakes, you must find and bleed them, they could be the reason for trapped air.



I used a car engine because the ¼” hose fits easily on most fittings and it’s powerful. The 3/8” hose fits on most bleeder fittings. The ¼” and 3/8” hose can slip together as in the picture and small piece make good adapters. You can use any size hose you want. The jar doubles as a collection container and vacuum reservoir; and captures the waste fluid so it does not enter the engine. Don’t over fill the container and suck it in the engine -- it smokes! Open the bleeders wide for maximum volume flow -- this is most important. Swift, steady flow sucks out the trapped air. The pump-and-squirt method pressurizes the system and the air is forced into the high cavities. Suction depressurizes and siphons the air away! You will only see foaming vacuum bubbles coming from the bleeders – the air bubbles blend in. The fluid never gets clear -- just streaming foam. You should really have an assistant to pour in brake fluid -- as it goes down fast, but you can manage alone. An uncapped reservoir will shoot fluid out if pumped -- watch the eyes. You probably can skip applying grease around the loose fittings. Small leaks in the hose setup are okay with plenty of vacuum to spare, no need to get fanatical. If you really want to make sure all air is purged, pump-and-squirt one last time with a small crack of the bleeder.

Shop VAC: If you a Shop VAC, a flat piece of material will firmly plant itself against the end of the vacuum hose, so drill a ¼” hole and insert the vacuum hose, then turn on vacuum and it will hold itself in place.



The Bleeding Facts: Bleeding the system is to purge air. Spongy or no brakes means air in the system. Bleeding is simple if there is no trapped air. First, try the simple method as it does work often. Pump the brakes, hold the peddle down, then open and close the bleeder. If you release before closing the bleeder, it sucks air in. Repeat until only fluid squirts out. If this fails, it’s because it moves too little too slow. One pump equals one squirt – it only nudges trapped air. One vacuum application can suck the system dry in less than a minute or two. It’s a breeze changing and flushing fluid. The idea is to move trapped air faster than it can move backwards. Vacuum action leaves no bubble behind.

Testimony: First used on my Goldwing’s front spongy brakes with vertical lines years ago. After much wasted time and frustration I made this gadget. It’s never failed me on any vehicle, even anti-lock systems. It’s one of the best homemade devises I have made. I still have the original Lipton Instant Tea jar with plastic lid. I never tried it with a Shop VAC, only my 4-cylinder S-10. Finally, after years of trying all the tricks of the trade, I beat a most frustrating job with killer simple homemade jar gadget! It makes me smile.



Ole Guy
 

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Ole Guy
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Here it is bubblingair through some old DOT-4. I changed the fuildagain Friday. I did not remember how hard it was to get at the rear bleeder and the one for the clutch. Just getthe 3/8 hose on and it sucks it down pretty quick. I did it alone and bleed them dry a few times, had to start over. The fluild in the container is all of it from front, rear, and clutch from my GL1200. The old fuild is browneven though it looked clear in the master cylinders. I think I'll change it more offten now that it is easy to do.



Ole Guy
 

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Discussion Starter #14
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i tried your method today for my clutch , hooked to to a small shop vac, worked fine ,had the wife out to fill up the res. but since i only used the shop vac. went slow enough i could have done it myself. i will keep that sane set up for future use.. by the way all of my fluids came out looking as good as the new dot 4 i put in.. i have 44,000 miles on it now and it had 19,500 when i bought it in october of 2005.so does this mean that the fluid was alright?? any way i like that set up .of yours . thanks.
 

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The Clutch on my bike has no "feel" It most likely has air trapped in it. I have been alternately lying on the ground trying to bleed the clutch and cussing and walking around mad. This contraption looks to be a whole lot smarter way to go. I will give it a try and see if I can make it work for me. The clutch bleeder is not in a very user friendly place!
 

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ccsailor wrote:
Bleed the rear brake first or you will be there all day
then the linked front then the single front
:waving:On GoldWings with the unified brake system (linked brakes) the correct procedure is to bleed thelinkedfront first then the rearand sometimes you might have to do it a couple times to get all air out. Always maintain the brake fluid level in the rear reservoir when bleedingthe linked brake system.
 

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Well I made my home brewed suction bleeder and by golly it worked like a charm! Thanks Ole Guy!

I used my house vacuum and was able to do the job without help...but it was close a couple of times to letting the master cylinder drain down.
 
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