Bleeding Clutch
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I have a friend that tried bleeding the clutch on his Honda Magna and he wound up taking it to the shop so they could use a vacuum bleeder on the thing. He had drained all the fluid from the line for some reason.
No matter what he tried, he could not get the fluid from the master cylinder to flow into the line.
I have a friend that tried bleeding the clutch on his Honda Magna and he wound up taking it to the shop so they could use a vacuum bleeder on the thing. He had drained all the fluid from the line for some reason.
No matter what he tried, he could not get the fluid from the master cylinder to flow into the line.
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This is the easy one to do.
Put your bike on its centre stand'
Now cover all of your tank and paintwork by putting a sheet over as much of your bike that is near the master cylinder. You do not want to get fluid spilt on anything.
Now take the top off of your master cylinder so that you can see the level of the fluid in the cylinder. You need to keep this level topped up as you start to change the fluid.
Find a bottle or better still a jar and put about 2" of clean fluid in it.
You now need a length of clear tube that will fit tightly over the clutch bleed nipple and long enough for the other end to be submerged into the fluid.
Use an open ended spanner to slacken off the nipple by half a turn which will open it. Pull the clutch lever slowly in and out about three timesand watch the old fluid , which will be a different colour and may have small bubbles in it, start to flow into the jar. You must make sure of two things here. One, the fluid must be kept topped up and two, the end of the tube must stay submerged at all times so that you do not draw air into the system. Keep on pulling the lever in and out until the fluid that is coming out of the tube is the same colour as the new fluid that you are putting in . When this happens you have finished. Tighten up the bleed nipple - ALL DONE.
Keith :waving:
This is the easy one to do.
Put your bike on its centre stand'
Now cover all of your tank and paintwork by putting a sheet over as much of your bike that is near the master cylinder. You do not want to get fluid spilt on anything.
Now take the top off of your master cylinder so that you can see the level of the fluid in the cylinder. You need to keep this level topped up as you start to change the fluid.
Find a bottle or better still a jar and put about 2" of clean fluid in it.
You now need a length of clear tube that will fit tightly over the clutch bleed nipple and long enough for the other end to be submerged into the fluid.
Use an open ended spanner to slacken off the nipple by half a turn which will open it. Pull the clutch lever slowly in and out about three timesand watch the old fluid , which will be a different colour and may have small bubbles in it, start to flow into the jar. You must make sure of two things here. One, the fluid must be kept topped up and two, the end of the tube must stay submerged at all times so that you do not draw air into the system. Keep on pulling the lever in and out until the fluid that is coming out of the tube is the same colour as the new fluid that you are putting in . When this happens you have finished. Tighten up the bleed nipple - ALL DONE.
Keith :waving:
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As long as I've been bleeding have never had to put about 2" of clean fluid in the bottle or submerged the tube into the fluid. As long as your clear tube has a nice upward loop in it, the air bubbles will travel to the top of the loop and expel as you bleed. Make sure your nipple has a good thread seal and I always prefer to use a good nipple wrench since open end wrenches can slip and damage. I believe the 1500 use the 8/125 series, which coincidently is also the series of speed bleeder used (ditch the junk and use the tube as a waste port)
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a good brake pipe wrench will hang on the nipple (!)
As long as I've been bleeding have never had to put about 2" of clean fluid in the bottle or submerged the tube into the fluid. As long as your clear tube has a nice upward loop in it, the air bubbles will travel to the top of the loop and expel as you bleed. Make sure your nipple has a good thread seal and I always prefer to use a good nipple wrench since open end wrenches can slip and damage. I believe the 1500 use the 8/125 series, which coincidently is also the series of speed bleeder used (ditch the junk and use the tube as a waste port)
a good brake pipe wrench will hang on the nipple (!)
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