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i have a problem bleeding my breaks front and back i have rebuilt the master cylinders i can get pressure on both but not building a lot of it does close calipers but as good as i think it should be have not rebuilt calipers took off cleaned old break fluid and crud out of all they were stuck before i cleaned them can you all old timers lend this confused man seeking knowledge some please
 

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The calipers most likely need attention bot you should have pressure build anyway,what I did was remove the line from the master cylinder and pump it and hold your finger over the hole till it built up pressure,sometimes air gets trapped in the master cylinder.
 
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i did that and it worked for the master cylinder but not for the whole system
 

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There’s still air in it then,sometimes it takes a while,
 

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Do you get any pressure on the pedal or lever.
 

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If you have some pressure it should build up,the hole inside your lines is very small,like 1/8 inch so any air will cause it to not get a good pressure,are you familiar with the bleeding,like when you get pressure on the lever and open the bleeder ,you must hold the lever all the way to the the bar before closing the bleeder before letting go,not insulting you don’t know but you would be surprised to know how many people don’t know that
 

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I believe you mean bleeding "brakes" not "breaks" as in "coffee breaks".....
Yes my spelling is not working correctly as my breaks but I am not a idiot i now how to bleed the brakes the problem is after all that there is still not a good pressure. would the fluid it self be a problem
 

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If you have some pressure it should build up,the hole inside your lines is very small,like 1/8 inch so any air will cause it to not get a good pressure,are you familiar with the bleeding,like when you get pressure on the lever and open the bleeder ,you must hold the lever all the way to the the bar before closing the bleeder before letting go,not insulting you don’t know but you would be surprised to know how many people don’t know that
Yes I know how to bleed the breaks but if you used dot 4 instead of dot 3 could that cause the problem I am having
 

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Yes I know how to bleed the breaks but if you used dot 4 instead of dot 3 could that cause the problem I am having
No, either is non compressible. And it is BRAKES, not breaks. You still have some air in the system.
 

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Are you saying that they will pump up to hold then the lever falls away?
 

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i have a problem bleeding my breaks front and back i have rebuilt the master cylinders i can get pressure on both but not building a lot of it does close calipers but as good as i think it should be have not rebuilt calipers took off cleaned old break fluid and crud out of all they were stuck before i cleaned them can you all old timers lend this confused man seeking knowledge some please
Did you remove the "seals" from the bore and clean the groves the seals rest in real good..??? Did you install "new" seals....???

If the seals are not good, air can get into the system as the pistons retract back into the bore.

Don't bother asking how I know.....!! BTDT....!!
 

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Old rubber brake lines will contribute to this kind of problem too. I just tore the rear system apart on my 83 this summer; rebuilt the caliper, master cylinder, and installed new stainless lines. I had 'soft' brakes for the last couple years, that is a warning - you need to replace lines! And I found out, as Pure Texas said, you need to bleed the master cylinder to get it pumping right; took me a while to figure that out.
 

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i have a problem bleeding my breaks front and back i have rebuilt the master cylinders i can get pressure on both but not building a lot of it does close calipers but as good as i think it should be have not rebuilt calipers took off cleaned old break fluid and crud out of all they were stuck before i cleaned them can you all old timers lend this confused man seeking knowledge some please
Barry, the brakes have to bled with a pressure bleeder. They will not bleed by pumping the pedal. The clutch is a different case, it has only one line and bleeding by hand will do it. Hope this works out for you.
 

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Barry I have had a 1975 GL1000 for several years. Every time I did any brake work my wife would cuss at me because I had her doing the pumping of the lever. I have tried reverse bleeding, pressure bleeding, strapping the lever to the handle bar over night, and any other thing/tricks that I thought would work out of frustration.

I currently have stock rear master cylinder, caliper, with metal/rubber break lines. The front has an after market master cylinder, braided stainless steel brake lines, stock calipers and rotors on the front.

One day after 2 days of total frustration I saw online a product called Russell Metric SPEED BLEEDERS. Cost about $16 for a pair on Amazon. My '75 with stock calipers took 8mm x 1.25 bleeder size. You can believe this if you want to or not. By myself, using the speed bleeders I started building up pressure by pumping the hand lever within 30 seconds. Within 5 minutes making sure that both calipers were totally bled and have stayed that way. After years of hating having to bleed brakes, I am a true believer.

The major problem is getting the air out of the master cylinder. The cylinder will only move one quarter to a half inch. By hand bleeding you can not get this air pocket out. With the speed bleeder the bleeder itself has a check valve (thus the higher cost) inside the bleeder valve. Fluid can go only one way and most importantly, air cannot go back into the lines. You just open the valve and start pumping until you see the air bubbles stop coming out. Only takes one person. Make sure you do not pump the fluid out of the maser cylinder reservoir.

Hope this helps and good luck,
 
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