Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

Help guys...my boss just got a 95 GL1500 to replace the 1200 he sold me. I went over to help him bleed the rear brakes and could not get them to pump up. Bled the front and then the rear. It pushed fluid with no bubbles but after the bleeder was closed the brakes would not firm up. What's the deal?...
 

·
Postpubescent member
Joined
·
36,382 Posts
imported post

Still have some air trapped. Since the brake line to the front brake goes through an upside down 'U' to get up and over the steering head, it's easy to get air trapped in the top of the loop. It can take a lot of bleeding to get that pushed out. Air can get trapped in the banjo bolts too, try cracking them like you do with the bleed screws.

One other source of bleeding difficulties is the small port in the master cylinder getting plugged. There are two small holes or ports between the master cylinder bore and the reservoir. One of them looks like a deadended hole. At the bottom of the 'deadended' hole is a very small hole. If that hole becomes plugged it can be near impossible to bleed the sysem. It's easy to clean the hole out with a fine piece of stiff wire, I use a whisker from a wire wheel or brush held in a small vise grip. The hitch is on the rear master cylinder you just about have to removeit from the bike to be able to get at the port.
 

·
Senior Guru
Joined
·
3,589 Posts
imported post

The gl1500 can be a pig to bleed. I use the syringe method described in other threads here and it works and works faster as well.
 

·
Lost on this *****
Joined
·
4,317 Posts
imported post

I have a hand vacume pump that I use for bleeding brakes on any vehicle and I love it. If you can get your hands on one with having to buy it at $35-$40 it should do the trick for you. Unless there is an issue of a hole being plugged.

Another trick is to open the bleeders and let it drip for a while (maybe 1-3 hours) give or take. Just need to take precations on catching the oil so NOT to let it get on any paint or plastic.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
42 Posts
imported post

I too,had a problem earlier with my 95 aspencade this past October. I purchased the hand vacuum/bleeder from AutoZone ($20 I think). Worked okay but somewhere on another thread here I read something about locking the pedal and brake levers in the full on position overnight. I don't know exactly why that works but it DID seem to make front and rear much more solid (feel-wise, anyway).

Greg
 

·
Lost on this *****
Joined
·
4,317 Posts
imported post

Figures,,,,,,,I got mine back in '99 when I bought my 77 GL1000 and Harbor Freight wasn't near me then. Got mine at Auto Zone for around $35 then. Still one of the best tools I've purchased. Cuts down on my CURSING:cheeky1:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
imported post

Yeah we wound up buying the mityvac and it worked fine..Only problem was that the supplied plastic hose was a bit larger than his bleeders and it wasn't easy getting a good vacumn...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,379 Posts
imported post

im not sure if im right, but a vacum pump would help you a lot :) i am trying to get one myself to do my brakes ;p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
imported post

Hi all, the mitvac is a good bit of kit and does the job, but so does a syringe at a fraction of the cost, I use the syringe method now as I find it quicker and easier.

Nick

Welsh Winger
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
140 Posts
imported post

Best thing I have found when using a vacuum pump is to remove the bleed nipples & wrap the threads with teflon tape. This stops the air leak around the threads & allows the pump to pull all the air & old fluid through easier. My mityvac works 100% better after discovering this.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top