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:?Went to bleed rear brake and discovered bleeder screw snapped off. Upon looking at caliper i discovered what appears to be a second hole for a bleeder screw. It is blocked off with a type of grub screw . Can this beremoved and a bleeder inserted.Thank you Larry J.
 

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I have never heard of a grub screw. That being said, seems to me that it would have to have a tapered shoulder in the bottom to seal the bleeder screw. Why not use some sort of penetrating oil on the bleeder screw stub and an easy out? Maybe even some heat? I have to admit, I don't know the best remedy for the problem!

This will bring the post back to the top.
 

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Ole Guy
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Maybe you don't need to replace the grub screw. Just loosen the grub when pressing the pedal and let it bleed off the air, tighten screw and release. Since you can't put a small piece of hose on it to carry the fuild away cleanly, this will be sloppy. This might work if all the air is purged and it seals when tight. If you want to replace the original bleeder, follow the advise given above.

Ole Guy
 

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either of the above . The "grub " screw is a plug for a production machine process , where a fluid passage has been drilled out but it wont have the required taper seat to put in a bleeder screw.

I would try as in the first response . Remove the caliper , and find an extractor(easy out)which should fit the bleeder orfice. After soaking with a penatrant oil ( PB Blaster ,my choice) for several days. Then I would apply some low heat to the area surrounding the bleeder port. Possibly several heat/cool/heat cycles(apply penetrant while in cooling cycle). Remember this is aluminum and it has a low melting point . You only want to warm it so the rust/corrosion will let loose,and allow the penatrant to soak down into the threads.

If using heat method ,you might prepare to have new piston seals on hand .
 

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Could be a lot of work. Check ebay and if the price is right, consider a replacement R&R. I use to rebuild wheel cylinders andmaster cylinders on Chevys, but nowadays, with them lowprices, why bother.
 

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OnaWingandaPrayer wrote:
I would try as in the first response . Remove the caliper , and find an extractor(easy out)which should fit the bleeder orfice. After soaking with a penatrant oil ( PB Blaster ,my choice) for several days. Then I would apply some low heat to the area surrounding the bleeder port. Possibly several heat/cool/heat cycles(apply penetrant while in cooling cycle). Remember this is aluminum and it has a low melting point . You only want to warm it so the rust/corrosion will let loose,and allow the penatrant to soak down into the threads.

If using heat method ,you might prepare to have new piston seals on hand .
I would go with that also, but I would use the square section easy-out rather than the "left hand thread" ones as they do not seem to spread the remaining threaded part as much, plus the gentle knocking in action also helps to break the crud seal. Had similar problem on the 85 Aspy and after gentle heat it came right out and as I only warmed caliper (Aluminium expands more than steel) did not harm seals.
Good luck.
 

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break-away is the penetrate spray I use. seems to work the best and the fastest. tried the freezespray, pb blaster wd-40 etc. break away the best for me.
 

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your best bet i think is pull it apart take the piston out take the o ring out take a torch and with a little heat then it should unscrew i do it all the time as a matter of fact just done one last week. Juat the little problems of being a shop owner
 
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