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The brakes were dragging on my '84 GL1200A so I replaced the old pins and seals on each caliper with new Honda kits. Thought I'd done a good job as the drag has disappeared but now both the front brake lever and rear brake pedal are really soft. Did I not bleed the system properly or was once not enough? I used the recommended fluid, by the way.
 

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It sounds like you need to bleed them some more. You need to make sure you getALL the air out of the systems. If you don't already have them, I suggest you get some speed bleeders to put on. I have never used them myself so I can'tsuggestbrands or how to use them. I have always bled my brakes without themand it's a pain in the ***! I have seen many posts on this forum praising them and plan on getting myself some next time I do brakes on my 83 Aspencade, car or truck!

Try bleeding them using a clear tube you can watch for air bubbles. When you don't see any more air bubbles you should be good to go. Keep an eyeon your reservoir. Keep it topped off and don't let it get to low.

Bob :11grey:
 

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If you have floorboards they can sometimes limit brake pedal travel when bleeding the brakes. Loosen the pinch bolt on the brake pedal and raise the brake pedal up a few splines. After the brakes have been properly bled and the pedal is hard you can then lower the pedal back to the desired position.

Vic
 

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Bled the lines again and added fluid which made a noticeable difference to the lever / pedal pressure. I was wondering, though, whether the original brake lines - now 21 years old - should be replaced. I can't spend the money for stainless this year but would new stock factory lines be an improvement?
 

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Mine are still original with 185,000k on them , they seem to be holding up ok. If they brakes are now working ok and there isnt any visible signs of deteration unless you really want to put new ones on I would think they are ok
 

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Changing the rubber brake hoses on my Wing was one of the first things I did to my bike when I first got it. The hoses are much like tires, safety wise, because they are made of material that decomposes with age. But, like tires, you can keep using them completely bald, with the cords showing through and they'll still get you around. I guess it all depends on how much you care about preventative maintenance or not. My Clymer manual, if my memory is correct, states that the brake hoses should be changed every 4 -6 years depending on usage conditions. Stainless steel brake hoses last much longer because the better ones are lined with Teflon which outlasts the standard brake hoses by many times.

Vic
 

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If you have a good pedal now, just leave well alone. Fitting new brake lines will still see you with the same problem of bleeding. Liked brake Wings are a pig to bleed, period.
 
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englishted wrote:
If you have a good pedal now, just leave well alone. Liked brake Wings are a pig to bleed, period.
Hey keener :waving:Just as englishted said, If the pedal is good enough leave well alone. :clapper:

:leprechaun::18red::leprechaun:
 

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According to several Honda dealers, 2/3 of the brake lines I would need to replace the old items are no longer available. Braided / stainless was proferred as the only alternative. Comparing prices, the latter would not be a whole lot more than Honda's product, either. Right now, that price is pretty steep so I'm going to bleed the lines again until I get the proper pressure back because I don't think the hoses are faulty. Just not getting all the air out.



Hey, just noticed this is my 100th post. Certainly gained more from the forum than I have contributed and can't thank the members enough for all the help given to a technically challenged "almost" senior!
 

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keener wrote:
Bled the lines again and added fluid which made a noticeable difference to the lever / pedal pressure. I was wondering, though, whether the original brake lines - now 21 years old - should be replaced. I can't spend the money for stainless this year but would new stock factory lines be an improvement?
Factory lines would be an improvement if you can get them, after all the ones on the bike lasted 21 years so far. I'd just look them over carefully for any checking or visible damage on the outside. Have someone squeeze the lever and press on the pedal hard and feel if you can find anywhere where the line seem to bulge more than the rest. If the brake fluidwas really nasty when you drained it that would be another consideration, if everything seem okay and the fluid wasn't particularly dirty, there isn't any immediate need to change them though it's always a good idea on an old bike.
 

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Hi Paul, have you ever seen it happen where the brake hose collapses on the inside yet looks perfect on the outside?

I've seen it happen twice on Gold Wings, but, as you state thereshould, potentially,be some noticable decomposition that would be visible in the brake fluid. How would one know if the P.O. may have possibly flushed the old fluid and installed clean, new brake fluid, yet the inside of the hose is falling apart.

Wouldn't it reallybe adventurousif the brakesquit working when they were sorely needed in an emergency situation? That's why Ideleted the old stock hoses and installedthe stainless braided hoses on my Wing as soon as I got it.

It's interesting how most guys are really concerned about the timing belts' age and their replacement interval, yet the brake hoses are overlooked.6 years (I believe)is the anticipated lfe of the brake hoses according to my manual.

I went for the braided stainless steel brake hoses because at the time they outperformed the Hondahoses by a giant safety margin and were actually cheaper than Honda originals. They also givea more solid, less spongy,brake feel.

Maybe I'm justoverly safety conscious when it comes to brakes, but, I just figured I'd throw in my 2 cents.

Vic
 

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Goldwinger1984 wrote:
Hi Paul, have you ever seen it happen where the brake hose collapses on the inside yet looks perfect on the outside?
I've seen it happen twice on Gold Wings, but, as you state thereshould, potentially,be some noticable decomposition that would be visible in the brake fluid. How would one know if the P.O. may have possibly flushed the old fluid and installed clean, new brake fluid, yet the inside of the hose is falling apart.
It's possible but not too likely, besides if things are bad internally you'd still havenew comtamination. I don't disagree with you Vic, but sometimes when the bucks are short... That's why I was recommending a good inspection of the hoses, looking for weathering, elasticity, and checking the fluid for signs of deterioration. I know how it is to be short of cash, if things looked good to me I'd probably ride the bike until I could afford new brake lines unless I had soft lever or pedal problems due to swelling lines. It's kind of the same situation with me, I plan on going with SS but not until this coming fall when hopefully the nickel bush and the dollar tree might shed a few. At least there are two separate systems.
 

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I know thatprecarious dollar situationall to well Paul. Still, I felt it was better to put some dollars into preventative maintenance rather thanrisk a mishap that may have caused me to rolll a couple of feet further than I had intended to travel. Maybe seeing some of the results of brake failures that I have seen puts things in a different perspective for me than it does for others.

Vic
 
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