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Rear brakes on the '83 Aspy have always felt stiff to say the least. Pedal sometimes didn't want to return properly. Last week, I rode it a little and had to take my foot and pull the pedal back up each time. I bled the system to make sure I didn't have air and found none. Determined it was the pedal itself sticking on the pivot peg.
Decided to tear it down this weekend. The brake pedal is held on by a large washer locked in place by a cotter pin. After 26 years, that cotter pin didn't want to come out. Had to hammer the washer off and shear the pin. Next, had to undo the clutch cable to allow pedal room to slide off. Then remove the pin that holds master cylinder piston to pedal and spring that activates brake light switch. The helper spring that returns pedal will slide off with pedal assembly.
Sleeve was badly rusted. Cleaned it up with a Dremel tool and greased it and the peg it pivots on. The peg has a channel that will hold extra grease. Good idea to fill it.
Slidbrake pedalback on the peg. Slick as owl snot now!:cooldevil: Put the helper spring and washer back on and replaced cotter pin (with a nail, of course!) Reattached clutch cable, master cylinder piston, and brake light switch spring.
Took her out for a 100 mile test run. Much better! Pedal feels as it should and returns to the top everytime. If you have similar problem, this may be your fix.Not much room to work in that area makes the job a PITA, but not too bad.
Rear brakes on the '83 Aspy have always felt stiff to say the least. Pedal sometimes didn't want to return properly. Last week, I rode it a little and had to take my foot and pull the pedal back up each time. I bled the system to make sure I didn't have air and found none. Determined it was the pedal itself sticking on the pivot peg.
Decided to tear it down this weekend. The brake pedal is held on by a large washer locked in place by a cotter pin. After 26 years, that cotter pin didn't want to come out. Had to hammer the washer off and shear the pin. Next, had to undo the clutch cable to allow pedal room to slide off. Then remove the pin that holds master cylinder piston to pedal and spring that activates brake light switch. The helper spring that returns pedal will slide off with pedal assembly.
Sleeve was badly rusted. Cleaned it up with a Dremel tool and greased it and the peg it pivots on. The peg has a channel that will hold extra grease. Good idea to fill it.
Slidbrake pedalback on the peg. Slick as owl snot now!:cooldevil: Put the helper spring and washer back on and replaced cotter pin (with a nail, of course!) Reattached clutch cable, master cylinder piston, and brake light switch spring.
Took her out for a 100 mile test run. Much better! Pedal feels as it should and returns to the top everytime. If you have similar problem, this may be your fix.Not much room to work in that area makes the job a PITA, but not too bad.
