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'98 GL1500 SE
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Discussion Starter #1
After practicing some emergency stops, I find severe shuddering using either front brake or the rear, with little stopping power. I could actually stand on the rear brake and hardly stop, never mind locking up the brakes. The bike has 62k miles, I purchased it in March this year. I've put less than 100 miles on it so far, so I'm getting to know the problems just now. There are lots of suggestions on this site, but need advice on brands and procedures. I did replace the pads over the winter, but they are the typical Chinese parts. I'm guessing rotors, lines, better pads, calipers?
 

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'98 GL1500 SE
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Discussion Starter #3
sounds like air in the lines, have you tried to flush the brake lines?
No, I haven't flushed the lines, but a good starting point. My experience with disc brake shudder was from warped rotors. I had the front rotors off when I painted the wheel, they looked okay with no bluing or scoring...
 

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'98 GL1500 SE
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Discussion Starter #4
I'm not familiar with the linked brake system on Goldwings, is it something like the adding of a proportioning valve between front and rear brakes on a street rod?
 

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It aint rocket science
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Mostly, I would suspect the pads. OEMs are all I will use. PERIOD!

However, for the pulsing, I say take the rotors off and carefully clean the mounting surfaces. Especially the ones that were painted. Maybe even sand those back down to the original surface.

Then a flush and bleed.
 

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'98 GL1500 SE
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Discussion Starter #7
Mostly, I would suspect the pads. OEMs are all I will use. PERIOD!

However, for the pulsing, I say take the rotors off and carefully clean the mounting surfaces. Especially the ones that were painted. Maybe even sand those back down to the original surface.

Then a flush and bleed.
Thanks Dennis. I did not paint the mounting surfaces. Just checking it a few minutes ago, the pedal feels mushy and does not pump up like a car does with air in the lines when bleeding its system....
 

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'98 GL1500 SE
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Discussion Starter #8
When reinstalling the rotors, I torqued them down the same way a cylinder head is torqued, by steps and a chriscross pattern...
 

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It aint rocket science
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Do the steps but use a circular pattern when tightening.
 

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'98 GL1500 SE
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Discussion Starter #11
With your typical (consumer) brake pad I always recommend to go easy on them for the first 100 miles. Most will agree that the OEM pad is best choice for stopping power, longevity and being dustless.
Thanks for the link from Tire Rack. If this is the case with my brake pad/rotor assembly, the bike would be dangerous to ride. I'm talking very little stopping power, no where near enough for an emergency stop. Yes, it did "judder" when used in a couple of practice hard traffic stops.I won't be riding until I can get this thing safe to operate.
 

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You heard right, Dennis. A star pattern is the correct way, and be sure to use a torque wrench to go in steps to minimize disc warpage. Also make sure the mounting surfaces are completely clean, flat, and free of burrs.
 

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Wow I have been mounting wheels and tires wrong for all of my life. Who knew?
 

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Wow I have been mounting wheels and tires wrong for all of my life. Who knew?
Me too Tom. Did it professionally for 40 years and had it wrong the whole time.
 

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Do not criss-cross when tightening a circular component, go in a clockwise motion when torquing down.
Do you have a written reference of some kind to verify that tightening sequence?
 

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every professional in the business will tell you use the Star Pattern to prevent warpage.
back in the early '50s when dad was showing me how to torque the head bolts on a '51 Plymouth straight 6, he caution me to use a specified pattern and to only torque "xy" pounds, and the repeat the pattern again with ZX pounds, and then do it again for the final torque value.

.
 

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I was taught to use the Star pattern when tightening lugnuts on car wheels at a very early age.... And to torque in stages...
 
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