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It aint rocket science
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Yup I messed up good. Maybe be the treatments are goin to my brain.:)
 

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I'd try bleeding the lines. Make sure you get all fresh fluid and it's the correct type of fluid. DOT 4 I think but check the manual and the cap. Brake fluid is cheap and an easy thing to try before replacing more components. Also double check the caliper pistons are clean, pin is clean and lubed. The pulsing does suggest the rotor is warped but you might have some binding of some component which is causing the brake to engage incorrectly and giving you a weird sensation. I'd verify what you have is correct before getting new parts. You'll have to buy plenty of new parts 馃槈.
 

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'98 GL1500 SE
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Discussion Starter #23
Update : I bought a brake bleeder from Harbor Freight, the one that uses compressed air to create a vacuum. I bled the rear brake, left front brake, and finally the right front brake. The old fluid wasn't real dark ; I'm guessing someone had done it within the past few years or less. On the front brake, I tied the lever tightly back to the grip as much as it would go and left it overnight. The next morning, I removed the cord and had "hard pedal" at the lever. I did the same on a Sportster and it worked great!
Not so much on the foot pedal, still feels soft. Road testing, the front brake has much more power than before. I didn't try a real hard stop as I've been warned here it has to break in for 100 miles (馃槖). The rear brake is a little better;, I didn't step on it too hard.
This is my first 'Wing, are you guys happy with the stopping power you have? I just feel something isn't quite right. I see some have changed to stainless steel lines, does that help?
 

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'98 GL1500 SE
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Discussion Starter #24
I'd try bleeding the lines. Make sure you get all fresh fluid and it's the correct type of fluid. DOT 4 I think but check the manual and the cap. Brake fluid is cheap and an easy thing to try before replacing more components. Also double check the caliper pistons are clean, pin is clean and lubed. The pulsing does suggest the rotor is warped but you might have some binding of some component which is causing the brake to engage incorrectly and giving you a weird sensation. I'd verify what you have is correct before getting new parts. You'll have to buy plenty of new parts 馃槈.
I cleaned the calipers and used the correct lube on the pins. I just saw your post...
 

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Great news! I'm not in love with the stopping power of mine but the foot brake stops better than the hand brake (since it operates 2 calipers). It's a big old bike and feels like it stops slower and with more squeezing of brakes than my Triumph.
I'd keep bleeding the rear. My buddy had one of those mighty vacs and we had to use a lot of Teflon tap and pinch the hose on the nipple to keep it from bubbling. So make sure the hose isn't leaking right at the nipple. Also, the recommended sequence is a to bleed the rear brake first and then front. Trace the hoses to make sure you are bleeding the correct caliper in the front. If that doesn't work, report back. The guys here will have more advice.
 

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Someone show me where it really matters.
Seems Honda thinks it matters.
bleed.jpg

It seems like anytime I read instructions for bleeding, the manufacturer says to bleed the caliper farthest from the master, first, due to the longer hose.

On my Hyundai, their instructions are a little odd, like left rear, then right front, then right rear, but I figure they must have a reason.
 

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Seems Honda thinks it matters.
View attachment 322523

It seems like anytime I read instructions for bleeding, the manufacturer says to bleed the caliper farthest from the master, first, due to the longer hose.

On my Hyundai, their instructions are a little odd, like left rear, then right front, then right rear, but I figure they must have a reason.
I know instructions say blah blah blah but being that I have been bleeding brakes for 1/2 a century I say it makes no difference whatever.
 

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'98 GL1500 SE
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Discussion Starter #31
When I bled the brakes, I had forgotten the old rule of bleeding the furthest wheel first. I was thinking about it today, trying to picture what happens in the lines when purging the air out of them. If a closer wheel was bled first, then air goes back into that line when the further line is bled? I guess I'm missing something. Also, the bleeder screws are a pipe thread and air could get past the threads when loosened. I read that many decades ago and always put a little grease on the bleeder threads when bleeding the system. I also read recently that when you pressurized the brake overnight, it forces the microbubbles of air to combine and are released to the m/c air space over the fluid. You know, there is always something to learn.....
 

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'98 GL1500 SE
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Discussion Starter #32
Great news! I'm not in love with the stopping power of mine but the foot brake stops better than the hand brake (since it operates 2 calipers). It's a big old bike and feels like it stops slower and with more squeezing of brakes than my Triumph.
I'd keep bleeding the rear. My buddy had one of those mighty vacs and we had to use a lot of Teflon tap and pinch the hose on the nipple to keep it from bubbling. So make sure the hose isn't leaking right at the nipple. Also, the recommended sequence is a to bleed the rear brake first and then front. Trace the hoses to make sure you are bleeding the correct caliper in the front. If that doesn't work, report back. The guys here will have more advice.
Try a zip-tie on the end of the bleeder line.. Tighten it down before you put it on the bleeder nipple, put the hose on, then slide the tie over the host/nipple connection....
 

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'98 GL1500 SE
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Discussion Starter #34
what is your run out on the rotors
I have a dial indicator, not sure if I have a secure way to attach it to the lower sliders. I'm busy for the next two days, but I'll come up with something. When I had them off, I could have tried laying them on the granite counter top and used a .002 feeler gauge. Thanks for the suggestion, if they're flat, that would rule out warpage causing the pulsing.
 
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