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1985 Goldwing LTD.

Lesson learned hard way. Bought bike on ebay. Drove 1018 miles after sending
non refundable $500 deposit. Let the fun begin. :bash:

The front brake caliper has been taken apart cleaned and greased. Still sticks.

Open line and let fluid out at master cylinder and it releases. Is it the master
cylinder?

Start engine in garage and run for your life. The fumes burn your eyes very badly
and it is not healthy to breath. Opened Air valve, looks corroded. clean with no
improvement in performance.

Drive to work and back and use half a tank of gas. 22 mile round trip.

Check voltage at battery. Guage is very close to meter reading.:jumper:

Found the website yesterday. Love it. Thank you in advance

Paul.:jumper:
 

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paulcra wrote:
The front brake caliper has been taken apart cleaned and greased. Still sticks.

Open line and let fluid out at master cylinder and it releases. Is it the master
cylinder?

Start engine in garage and run for your life. The fumes burn your eyes very badly
and it is not healthy to breath. Opened Air valve, looks corroded. clean with no
improvement in performance.

Drive to work and back and use half a tank of gas. 22 mile round trip.

Check voltage at battery. Gauge is very close to meter reading.:jumper:

Found the website yesterday. Love it. Thank you in advance

Paul.:jumper:
Paul, welcome to the best Wing site going..

You ask a few questions..
The front brake caliper has been taken apart cleaned and greased. Still sticks.
Open line and let fluid out at master cylinder and it releases. Is it the master
cylinder?
Probably is in the master cylinder or hand lever. It sounds like either the take-up port in the master cylinder is plugged, or the internal M/C piston isn't returning enough to uncover the take-up port, or the hand lever is bent or incorrect so not allowing the piston to return.
Start engine in garage and run for your life. The fumes burn your eyes very badly
and it is not healthy to breath. Opened Air valve, looks corroded. clean with no
improvement in performance.
That sounds like a carb problem. You will probably have to pull the carbs, take them apart & do a through cleaning. You might get lucky & get by with just cleaning the pilot jet passages & sometimes that can be done by pulling the pilot jet needles without removing the carbs then spraying carb cleaner into the pilot jet openings.
Drive to work and back and use half a tank of gas. 22 mile round trip.
That might or might not be a problem. You really need to give us a miles per gallon reading over a few tankfuls to be sure you have a problem. With the above possible carb problems it's very possible you have a problem there though.
Check voltage at battery. Gauge is very close to meter reading.:jumper:
You didn't give us an actual voltage reading but with your bouncing icon it must be good.

Twisty
 

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The Ltd is injected. The meter shows 14.2 volts, if i remember corectly.

Went to start it and it blew 30 amp fuse by the battery. More corectly it looks to have just broke.
:12ltd:

Thank you for the welcome and help.

Paul.
 

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85 LTD is fuel injection I do believe.

As far as the brakes are concerned, if you don't know the history of this bike. I would pull all three calipers and rebuild them, it doesnt cost a great deal.
I use anti seize on the bolts when replacing them. in fact on any bolt I have off the bike I use it.
Replace the fluid in the brakes and clutch.
Change the belts while your at it.
Check the tire valves for ageing, waggle from side to side, if you see any cracks in the rubber, change them.
 

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Welcome to the forum Paul, sure sounds like you jumped into the world of old Wings that have been ridden, and put away "wet & dirty". You may be in for a long brake bleeding session. I think Twisty is your man for the fuel system trouble.

For quick and dirty, you might get by with some injector cleaner and new fuel filters. More than a few members have wired,(soldered), new automotive style 30 amp plug type fuse holders in place of the stock "H" Honda main fuse link.

You might also want to check how well worn, and extended the pads are in the sticking caliper. Often times, you get a bit of crud built-up behind the puck not letting it move freely in the cylinder bore. A good cleaning and new seals may do it for you here.

Good luck and keep us informed of your progress. :gunhead:
 

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Replace the fuse with an auto weather proof holder and fuse.
I dont think the LTD had alternator problems but check the state of the alternator plug on the left side of the battery just to be sure.
 

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paulcra, Welcome to the site! When I bought my '85 1200A in April, it would burn my eyes too. It smelled so bad I would stink like exaust after riding it. Removing the carbs and cleaning them solved the problem.
The "broken fuse" is not uncommon. Many people replace it with a automotive type fuse and holder.
 

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It seems that I did not get the send button pushed before I went on to
other things. Will try again.:baffled:

Thank you all for the welcome and help.

Have changed the timing belt's and tensioners, the thermostat, and fan relay,
it was jumped across with wire. The fuse holder had a spare. must be original
in both cases. Have run injector cleaner through it one time.

The computer on the bike put the consumption at seven mpg or so as I was
riding. The volt meter on the dash shows 14.1 and the meter 13.9.
Next to the battery is a bracket for 2 connectors but no connectors.
Will look into that later.

The bike seems to have started out in Florida and made it's way to Tennessee
before coming to Texas. Would like to keep it a long while.

Rode hard and put away wet and dirty is a polite way to say it.
Hey, it's paid for, and what little I have rode it was GREAT. :clapper: And the wife
will not even sit on the FZ6 now.

Paul.
 

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The LTD/SEi were probably the most complicated bikes built by Honda until the 1800. But when everything is running right, they are about the best of the Goldwing breed. Faster than the 1500 or other 1200s. I'm going to guess that you have a sensor problem in the fuel injection. Vic or Twisty might be the guys to help you with this one.
 

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paulcra wrote:
The Ltd is injected. The meter shows 14.2 volts, if i remember corectly.

Went to start it and it blew 30 amp fuse by the battery. More corectly it looks to have just broke.
:12ltd:

Thank you for the welcome and help.
Paul, I guess I should have paid attention the the LTD part.

On that poor fuel economy question? You might start with checking the air cleaner & intake tract for a dirty filter or mouse nest in the intake tract. If it can't geta full amount of air it will run rich & make your eyes water.

If all OK in the intake area then it's a work your way through the fuel pressure, injector test, emission system test, EI system sensor test, etc. Any number of things from a faulty TPS to a coolant sensor can really upset the running mixtures.

Another place to look is the ign coil voltage, low voltage to the ign coils (not a rare occurrence on the older Wings) can give poor running (especially at low engine RPM as the system voltage is lower there due to low alternator output).

Maybe even check the spark plug wire resistors for too high of a resistance.

You will probably need a GOOD service manual then work your way through the EFI part to check all the EFI components.

Twisty
 

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When it is running right you are going to love the LTD. I guess I got lucky with my LTD EBay purchase. I was recommended this site as a reference and it is full of great info on the LTD.

Click here: GL1200 Ltd. and SEI Repair

My fuel computer says I avg 41 MPG
 

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For got to mention my Voltmeter reads about the same as yours. The LTD did not have as heavy stator as the SEi but it is stronger then the other 1200's and is not as prone to failure.
 

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Thank You again. :waving:

I have a Clymers. Tested the air temp sensor, it did read out of
range on low end. New air filter. No mouse nest. Will move on
to ign. coils, and plug wires. If they are bad may as well change all at once.

And did I say how much I like this site? :clapper:

Paul.
 

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Also forgot to mention reading the LEDs on the ECU. Clymers has a pretty good section on the self diagnosis. It might just tell you what's making it unhappy.
 

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Thank you.

I took the false fuel tank off today and found a connector with two wires, I think
they were both yellow, that have been very hot. They were on the left side if you
are sitting on the bike. I could not get it unplugged, and not sure what it is for.
Was about to look in manual to see if i can find it. That area is tight and has
more wire than it should. Seem's to go to metal box that has small fin's, possibly
to help cool it.

May just remove body work and make it a point to inspect and clean all of the
connectors. Need a good project anyway. But I do not know if I can wait that
long to ride it. :baffled: :12ltd:
 

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The paulcra wrote:
Thank you.

I took the false fuel tank off today and found a connector with two wires, I think
they were both yellow, that have been very hot. They were on the left side if you
are sitting on the bike. I could not get it unplugged, and not sure what it is for.
Was about to look in manual to see if i can find it. That area is tight and has
more wire than it should. Seem's to go to metal box that has small fin's, possibly
to help cool it.

May just remove body work and make it a point to inspect and clean all of the
connectors. Need a good project anyway. But I do not know if I can wait that
long to ride it. :baffled: :12ltd:
The little box with fins is your rectifier regulator and those are the wires that cause problems. If there are signs it's been hot, they need to be repaired right away 'cause you're going to be standing on the side of the road if you don't. The connector with the yellowtwo wires should be the two stator leads going to the regulator. Check around in that area, there's a larger connector and the third of the yellow wires goes there. It's likely that connector has been heated where the yellow wire enters.
 

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exavid,

Thank's for the info got sidetracked last night and accomplished nothing. :shock:

:12ltd:
 
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