Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
imported post

I spin the tire and there is some brake rub...How much is to be expected ? If there should be any. Should it spin free and loose ? I have plenty of brake.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,398 Posts
imported post

It's not going to freewheel, if that's what you're asking. Mine rotates about a revolution or so before stopping.

Care to share how you got your front brake to work?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,424 Posts
imported post

slight rub is ok but retraction must be there...press the brakes and watch them closely they must retract slightly when you let up
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
imported post

AsI shared in one post, I found several problems, two of which in link brakes can cause them not to work....the master cylinder was clogged and the brake pedal was sticking. Also the bleeding process is tempermental...make sure you use a pump with a good tight fit, you may have to keep bleeding it several times. This may not be your problem. I wish you luck. Believe me I have had myshare of problems with this bike, but for some reason I love it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
546 Posts
imported post

You will get some resistance if you spin the wheel but it should not take alot of effort to spin it. Also if you have good ears you can hear the caliper squeeze and release when depressing the brake.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,969 Posts
imported post

Set it with a feeler gauge .... the setting is in the manual... under brakes or wheels? I don't remember which. It will have some drag as all disc brakes do.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,929 Posts
imported post

My rear wheel would not spin at ALL. You could move it (with some difficulty), but you could not get it to spin (freewheel) - the instant you let go, it stopped. This is one of the main reasons I rebuilt my brakes this winter. I rebuilt the master cylinder and the rear caliper (both of which DEFINITELY needed it), replaced the brake pads, and changed to stainless braided brake lines.

Now the brakes are FAR better, and the wheel spins for about 3/4 rotation before stopping.

Keep in mind when you spin the wheel, you're also turning the input shaft and the output section of the transmission, so it's not going to freewheel.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,902 Posts
imported post

The piston should actually be sucked back into the caliper after brake release.

If you are having any problem rolling the bike in the driveway, particularly turning the wheel going backwards, then your brake(s) are sticking.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,929 Posts
imported post

There is no mechanism in the master cylinder for "sucking" the piston back. It is a one-way pump only, that allows fluid to flow backwards when the brake lever/pedal is released. You can see this if you take the caliper off the wheel, then pump the brake lever - the pistons never move back into the caliper, and if you keep pumping, you will eventually push the pistons right out of the caliper.

When the brake lever is released, and the wheel is turning, the minute movements of the brake rotor from side to side against the pads push them (and the pistons) back into the caliper until they no longer contact the rotor as it turns.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top