AsI shared in one post, I found several problems, two of which in link brakes can cause them not to work....the master cylinder was clogged and the brake pedal was sticking. Also the bleeding process is tempermental...make sure you use a pump with a good tight fit, you may have to keep bleeding it several times. This may not be your problem. I wish you luck. Believe me I have had myshare of problems with this bike, but for some reason I love it.
My rear wheel would not spin at ALL. You could move it (with some difficulty), but you could not get it to spin (freewheel) - the instant you let go, it stopped. This is one of the main reasons I rebuilt my brakes this winter. I rebuilt the master cylinder and the rear caliper (both of which DEFINITELY needed it), replaced the brake pads, and changed to stainless braided brake lines.
Now the brakes are FAR better, and the wheel spins for about 3/4 rotation before stopping.
Keep in mind when you spin the wheel, you're also turning the input shaft and the output section of the transmission, so it's not going to freewheel.
There is no mechanism in the master cylinder for "sucking" the piston back. It is a one-way pump only, that allows fluid to flow backwards when the brake lever/pedal is released. You can see this if you take the caliper off the wheel, then pump the brake lever - the pistons never move back into the caliper, and if you keep pumping, you will eventually push the pistons right out of the caliper.
When the brake lever is released, and the wheel is turning, the minute movements of the brake rotor from side to side against the pads push them (and the pistons) back into the caliper until they no longer contact the rotor as it turns.