I'd go with an LED bulb if you want brighter. LED's won't run the battery down as much either.I have been told a 2057 taillightbulb is brighter than a 1057 bulb. Has anyone tried this or know why it would not work. (excessive heat or other reason):dance:
I think you meant the 2057 is brighter than a 1157 bulb.I have been told a 2057 taillightbulb is brighter than a 1057 bulb. Has anyone tried this or know why it would not work. (excessive heat or other reason):dance:
stretrod48, actually the 2057 bulb is a little dimmer on tail light (a little over1 watt per bulb) than an 1157. Not sure how it compares to a 1034 bulb. The 1034 has basically been replaced with the more heavy duty 1157 bulb. The 2057 bulb was developed for newer cars & trucks that run the lights more (or all the time). That little savings in power is used to slightly increase the fuel economy ratings. The stop light filament in the 2057 is about the same as an 1157.I have been told a 2057 taillightbulb is brighter than a 1057 bulb. Has anyone tried this or know why it would not work. (excessive heat or other reason):dance:
Vic, that is big reason that when people install one of those supposedly brighter bulbs they see an improvement over the old one & think that new wazzo bulb is a lot brighter.A lot of people don't realize that light bulbs diminish in output over time. So it's a good idea to periodically replace the light bulbs with new ones even if the old bulbs are still working.
Dadoo, that's a good point. I do have the headlight ground run back directly to the battery as I ran it with the 14 gaugepower wire (that works for both high & low beam but am only enhancing the power on high beam. It would only take a second micro relay to also do the low beam. If I add a second relay it would also hook to the starting circuit so the headlight would shut down on engine cranking (maybe someday later for that)..Right Twisty. I've done the same on my older bikes. In fact I take all the power that goes through the ignition switch and run it through a main relay that is connected to a fused battery connection. The switch just powers the relay. It really brought the lighting to life. The wiring to and contacts within an ignition switch are often marginal at best. Also, the grounding on older bikes is suspect and should be maintained by either cleaning the grounding points or adding heavier grounding wires, especially if more lighting or accessories are added. DON'T FORGET THE GROUNDING.
Vic, not much of a schematic on my conversion as it is pretty simple.Well done guys.
Installing a relay that takes the load off the ignition switch could conceivably improve the life of the hard to find and expensive Hondaignition switch and put the load on ageneric and inexpensiverelay that would improve electrical continuity to all affected circuits.
Any chance you guys have color coded drawings/schematics showing which wires you eliminated from the ignition switch and ran to the relay?
I just love it when folks come up with bona fide improvements to Classic Wings that help save money and improve the Wing's reliability even further.
