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I am a long time wing rider but getting back into it with the recovery of an 84 Aspencade that has been sitting with gas in tank for 20 years. I need advice on how far to go in removing tank to get at filters, carbs, etc. There must be a better way but.... the manual talks about taking everything apart to remove tank including the rear shocks. Help!
 

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[align=center]Welcome Fusionenterprise[/align]
 

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Welcome Fusionenterprise. Your question needs to be in the Technical forum, but one of the moderators will move it there for you when they see it here.

If it's the plastic false tank you want to remove, saddle, side panels and the plastic trims at the steering head come out first. You can see it done in this timing belts article:

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/1200timingbelts.htm

 

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To get the actual gas tank out.... yeah, all that has to come off. Unfortunately, after 20 years, you may have to do just that because you may need to replace the tank. I've only worked on one vehicle that sat even close to that long (15 years) and after a month straight of trying every trick in the book it was no use, tank had to go.

The air cleaner and all that is under the false tank. Just pull the pockets on either side of the fairing andpull the rubber filler pieces right next to them, then the seat and side covers come off and you will see four bolts holding it on.

Gettin' the carbs out is a bit more work ;), but basically after taking off everything but the fairing itself and totally disconncting the carb assembly, the whole assembly comes out from the left side.
 

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Welcome to the forum Fusionenterprise
There is a way to derust the tank is it's rusted using baking soda, water, a long spike nail or long bolt and a battery charger.
Here are search results using the forum search bar under the menu on the main page.(try a search on any subject so you know how to do it)
I used rust removal baking soda.
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/search.php?s=1&q=rust+removal+baking+soda&forum_id=1
 

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:waving:Greetings from N.Idaho and welcome to the Best Goldwing Forum on the internet. If used, this forum will supply you with great information and hours of simple entertainment. Ride on.......:action:


It almost seems as though the frame of the Goldwing was built around the tank. They did this I am sure to get the most miles as possible out of a tank of gas as it is a touring machine. Removing the tank is no small task, but after you are done you will be glad as many other things along the way get cleaned up in the process.
 

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It can be cleaned in place.
 

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Welcome to the forum!

I would try what newday suggested first. If that doesn't work then consider removing and replacing the tank.

As for the carbs? Plenty of articles on here on how to remove them and clean them. First time you do it will probably take an hour or more and you'll learn some new cuss words. After that it's about a 20 minute job.

Ask plenty of questions here in the tech forum. Don't guess and remember you are not alone. Every one of us has done what you are going to do and learned a LOT!
 

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I hope you have a repair manual for it?
 

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Whether the tank (the actual tank) needs to be removed depends on it's condition. Remove the fuel sender unit, get a Maglight, and have a good look inside the tank. Old gas residue can be dissolved with a number of different things. The main issue is rust. If there is little to no rust, I would not remove the tank. If there is a lot of rust, I generally first remove any gas residue and anything oily with Castrol Superclean degreaser, then use acid (either phosphoric or muriatic (hydrochloric) to remove the rust. Hydrochloric acid is stronger than phosphoric.

With a bike that sat that long, it is probably advisable to pretty much tear it down to the frame and engine anyway, so you can give it a good inspection, do all the repairs, and maintenance. I had my '85 down to the frame, engine, and forks and front wheel. (Oh, I did leave the gas tank in place after finding no real rust in it) I removed the forks and front wheel after getting the rest of it mostly back together.

But, before all that, because it will be a lot of work, and take a lot of time, I would first deal with the engine. Make sure the engine is good before doing all that other stuff. I spent the best part of 5 months getting mine apart and back together again, and found and repaired lots of stuff, and did all the maintenance.
 

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:waving::waving::waving:Welcome from Vancouver Island.
 

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I will give you a shot. You know of a substitute for 84 gl1200 clutch springs? I can not find them and I can find 1100 and 1500. If you do please tell me.
 
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