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I resurrected a 1972 Honda CL350 that had been pushed home on Halloween night 1978 and left on it's side stand in the backyard, with the gas on, uncovered, till 1998.
I was able to save everything on that bike EXCEPT THE CARBS. Those I had to purchase from a junkyard. Mine were so solid I literally broke one in half trying to take it apart.
 
Discussion starter · #63 ·
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Ok now I am freaked out.. I went and started bike today. I let it warm up till fan came on. No smoke at all? weird? Should I still go ahead and replace that head gasket?

I couldnt get it to smoke more than an itty bit?
 
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As you know, I am FAR from an expert on these matters. But I have read more than once that Sea Foaming an engine makes it smoke initially. Perhaps that was where the smoke was coming from? :?
 
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Are you sure it just wasn't running rich? Did you do a compression test?
When it was smoking was it water/coolant?

My bike has been doing the same thing..I think it's just carburetor issues. Sometimes the floats won't seal well and it will smoke like crazy. Basically any time you have an 1100 issue, it almost always goes back to those carbs!
 
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The toilet bowl cleaner is a good touch for cleaning. On mine, I used nuts, bolts, and washers, with kerosene in the tank. Then the work really started by hand shaking the tank forever, it felt like. I also found out later that I could have taken the fuel tank to a radiator shop to have it boiled out and cleaned. Thanks for the tip on the cleaning tank using walnut shell material. Your pictures remind me of what I had to do to bring back my bike from 20 years in a garage. Good work, keep it going!
 
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I used muriatic acid to clean the inside of my tank. Only took a couple hours and looked like new inside. About a 1:5 dillution.
I was scared to use acid at first, but am glad I did it that way. Fast and cheap. No need to shake it around and wait for hours or days with less aggressive chemicals.
 
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Tom2 wrote:
I used muriatic acid to clean the inside of my tank. Only took a couple hours and looked like new inside. About a 1:5 dillution.
I was scared to use acid at first, but am glad I did it that way. Fast and cheap. No need to shake it around and wait for hours or days with less aggressive chemicals.
The only problems with the acid method are:

1.) The acid attacks the metal, which means if there was a spot that was really thin due to the rust and corrosion, you now have a spot that is a hole.

2.) The acid causes the tank to "flash rust", which is nearly impossible to stop without the use of some kind of "tank lining agent".

RUSTECO doesn't attack the metal, only the corrosion, and the tank won't flash over after washing it out.
 
Discussion starter · #73 ·
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Thats what I am thinking...lol

I am changing the belts and flushing cooling system and changing my concoction oil...lol

almost ready to throw it up on evilbay.. or offer it up to the group..

Hal
 
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MDKramer wrote:
Tom2 wrote:
I used muriatic acid to clean the inside of my tank. Only took a couple hours and looked like new inside. About a 1:5 dillution.
I was scared to use acid at first, but am glad I did it that way. Fast and cheap. No need to shake it around and wait for hours or days with less aggressive chemicals.
The only problems with the acid method are:

1.) The acid attacks the metal, which means if there was a spot that was really thin due to the rust and corrosion, you now have a spot that is a hole.

2.) The acid causes the tank to "flash rust", which is nearly impossible to stop without the use of some kind of "tank lining agent".

RUSTECO doesn't attack the metal, only the corrosion, and the tank won't flash over after washing it out.



Not to get the thread too far off-topic: But, I rinsed it out with baking soda right after, and then instantly fogged it with a ton of WD40. It's only been a couple months, but I havent seen any new rust in the tank at all. Obviously if the tank has really thin metal,pinhole leaks, etc - Acid isn't a good choice. Evaporust(I think thats what its called) is sold at Harbor Freight and eats rust safely. About $20 for a jug of it. Havent used it before, but have heard it works. Just imagine it takes a little longer than acid.



They will definitely flash rust if you acid wash it, and then take too much time trying to dry it out and don't get some WD40 in there. But I had no problem with it, as long as you work somewhat fast.
 
Discussion starter · #76 ·
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I immediately flushed it and sprayed out with baking soda.. I had tons. bought a case when I started this project. Then dried again and immediately installed and filled with high octane.. because i had 5 gallons I just bought for lawn tractor...lol no issues.. The smoke is completely gone now... woot woot.. will hold on head gasket for a while see how it goes....lol
 
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copper204 wrote:
Ok now I am freaked out.. I went and started bike today. I let it warm up till fan came on. No smoke at all? weird? Should I still go ahead and replace that head gasket?

I couldnt get it to smoke more than an itty bit?
I think I would run it carefully as is and see how it acts for awhile maybe.
Mine did not smoke when I bought it, but one cold morning just a few days later it was a fogger about 3 AM for awhile when I fired it up with choke on. Later I had no smoke once it warmed up.
Seamed to never smoke after than till the other day, after sitting about 3 days or so not stared I got a little smoke like a small fogger for a few seconds.

Mine seems fine otherwise, no water to oil, not using any oil I can tell, runs fine.
I need to did out the old compression tester and Leak down testers and see what I can find.
 
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Yes DBD, it really works. I've done 2 Goldwing tanks (IN THE FRAME) and a myriad of other chrome and steel things with the same 5 gallon bucket that I bought 5 years ago.
 
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Wow..Thats awesome you did it with the tank still in the frame. I definitely wouldn't do acid that way.

Mabye I'll try it with my other bike. Its got a touch of surface rust on the bottom. Nothing major (not removing it over anyways), but wouldnt hurt to clean it up.
 
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