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Got my fork seals done today and put every thing back together and went to torque the axel nut down to 26 ft #'s as the book states and striped the axel stud. Is this replaceable or do I need a new fork? THX
 

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:baffled:Not sure what part you striped, hopefully not inside the fork tube. Over the years no telling how many times the nuts have been off and on the studs.

On my 1983 GL 1100A, we striped the stud where the nutthreads on. Use vise grips on the non threaded part, take the stud out, turn it over and screw the striped end into the bottom of the fork. There is a lot of unused, newthread where it goes through the axle cap. Just be careful threading the stripped part in, making sure it does not cross thread.
Suggest you alsotake one of your nuts to hardware/auto parts place and get all new nuts. Might even be able to find new studs.
Hope this helps, good luck.:clapper:
 

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if its the fork end cap bolts/studs your talking about, you can replace it, just unscew the old stud with vise grips or a stud extractor,
 

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A photo to show what happened would be helpful...
 

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make sure when you replace the studs & nut's that you get the proper strength steel
 

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I do not know 1200's but I have a question. I am pretty sure you are talking about the Axle holder cap nuts, on a 1000 these are torqued to 156-216 inch lbs. You quoted a value of 26 foot lbs???

Just sounds like a huge disparity if the same type of axle holders are used?? If I am all wet (happens more than I care for!) one of you 1200 smart guys just tell me to go back to my corner and sit down :D
 

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Whiskerfish wrote:
I do not know 1200's but I have a question. I am pretty sure you are talking about the Axle holder cap nuts, on a 1000 these are torqued to 156-216 inch lbs. You quoted a value of 26 foot lbs???

Just sounds like a huge disparity if the same type of axle holders are used?? If I am all wet (happens more than I care for!) one of you 1200 smart guys just tell me to go back to my corner and sit down :D

Hey Whiskerfish. You are bang on on that comment. So you get to stand proud with shoulders pull back and chest stuck out!

For the GL1200 for the pinch bolts on the axle it is 25nm or 18ft/lbs (Quantity of 4)

Front nuts first then backs tightened in this order.

The actual axle nut is torqued to 60nm or 44ft/lbs (Quantity of 1)

:clapper::clapper::clapper:

The #1 problem to torquing bolts and other items I found from my personal experience, is the use of the wrong tools and cheap one too. Not that a person has to go buy Snap-off or Mac tools but a decent non Harbour frieght tool for delicate work..

Now this is not a negative comment towards FangGL1200, we don't know what happened other than a broken stud is the result and he asking for assistance..:(

Hopefully he can get it back in shape with not too much trouble.



I do happen to have a pair of front forks for a GL1200 in next to new condition though should replacement of the entire forks be in order...:D:D:D
 

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You are absolutely correct, Whiskerfish. The specs are the same 156 - 216 inch pounds, or 13 - 18 Ft pounds.

With some I've pulled apart, it's apparent they were never torqued in, in the first place. This is a another area where people may think, tighter is better, IMHO.

I would get some new nuts and torque them at the correct spec.
 

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THX for all the help on this..I have a honda GL 1200 service manual that I got the torque specs from and a complete line of snap on tools..Re checking the threads on the rest of the axel pinch bolts they are all stretch and wore..So new bolts around and more info on torque specs..Thx for all the help..I will try to get a few pics of my new bike soon..You guys are the best help on the net..
 

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Sounds like a previous wrench didn't do you any favours...:(
 

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No they didn't but hey it is all fixable guess..I was just not sure I could change out the studs or if I needed to replace the whole fork..I am trying to get all the things right on this my first Wing..Hoping to put many miles a year on my Wing with as few problems as possable..Everyone I work with rides a Harley so I am catching a little grief from them..Although the only running bike in the shop says Honda on the front..LOL.. THX for all the help..
 

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Thx for all the help..Got it fixed today..All I have to say is don't over tighten these studs..They do nont like to come apart..THX for all the help..
 

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Good deal!!
 

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Well here's what I have learned about the axel studs that attach the axel to the forks..If you break or strip one of these, parts a cheap..Thats the good news..Bad news is getting the stud out of fork is not an easy job..I removed and replaced all 4 studs on my bike..Not one of them were unthreaded out of the fork..All were drilled out and removed with a easy out.."THX Snap on dude"..We used a 6 mm drill bit and made a guess at what depth to drill to on the first on..These studs are the same length on both ends that are threaded..Marked the drill bit to length and drilled the other 3 out and then sprayed the down with WD 40 and let them soak..Threaded the easy out in and they did finally give up and come out..Not much fun and not knowing if it was going to work or if I was going to ruin a good set of forks..Threaded in the new studs with a dab of anti seize and following Mr.Fixit's page on torque specs had it back together in about 4 fours..If any one has a ? about this give a hollar..
 

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Thank you for coming back and reporting on how you fixed it.

Your info will now provide a future poor desperate soul with some ideas on how to fix theirs :)
 

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Thanks, FangGL1200.
Good write up on your broken stud trouble and the fix. Betting this information will be used in the future.
 

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Glad to hear that it all turned out good! Congrats on the repair!:cooler::cooler::cooler:
 
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