Broken GL1000 brake bleeder screws

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Sorry to hear that, You might be able to pull the caliper and tilt it so that you can bleed it at the hose just to get you by. On the other ones, I always put a wrench on them and give them a pretty good rap with a hammer as I put torque on the wrench. When you get the chance to work on the bad bleeder, you might tap a small easy out into it and give it a try.

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I've already tried the easyout route,and am now stuck with about 1/2 mm of thread in the hole. I can't get it to budge or bend in the opening. It seems like the caliper is aluminum, so I'm thinking it might be able to be drilled larger. I know the local autoparts store have larger bleeders, but I was wondering if anyone else has encountered this ( I can't be the only one with a 1978, that's been neglected!)

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it looks easy, since the bleder has already a hole, just buy a set of extractors and it will come off!

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I fixed a snapped stud once by welding a nut onto what was left with a wire feed & while it was hot I just turned the whole thing out. Not sure it would work for you but ya never know.

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Unfortunately, I have already broken an easy out off in the hole. I had to redrill to remove it, but larger. There is nothing left in the hole except for a 1/2mm or so of screw all the way around the inside (I haven't gone through the bottom yet), so it's still holding pressure to drive. I've been hitting the others with liquid wrench, but they don't appear to be freeing up any. Should I drill and tap bigger, or try to get a helicoil kit that is the same size, or begin looking for new calipers?

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I'd get new calipers they are cheap enough on eBay..or here on the for sale board..I have some..$25 plus shipping..for both sides off a 79. PM if interested.

Try some heat on the others..just a little as there is a rubber o ring in there but if you keep the heat at the neck of the bleeder port you might be OK..two people is best one with a torch and the other applying pressure on the wrench as you heat...just my .02

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Give em a shot of PB Blaster ( available at local autoparts store) and then do what Highcountry suggested.Use a wrench (six point), apply a little pressure by hand and then smack the wrench with a hammer. Sometimes a good jolt is all a stuck nut or bolt needs. The PB Blaster is great stuff. Alot better than that liquid wrench. Don't over spray the PB Blaster onto your plastic as it may discolor it.

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hatchetman wrote:

I fixed a snapped stud once by welding a nut onto what was left with a wire feed & while it was hot I just turned the whole thing out. Not sure it would work for you but ya never know.

Click to expand...

:shock:WELDED IT!!??? WOW!!!:clapper:

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Buzzmoe2 wrote:

Give em a shot of PB Blaster ( available at local autoparts store) and then do what Highcountry suggested.Use a wrench (six point), apply a little pressure by hand and then smack the wrench with a hammer. Sometimes a good jolt is all a stuck nut or bolt needs. The PB Blaster is great stuff. Alot better than that liquid wrench. Don't over spray the PB Blaster onto your plastic as it may discolor it.

Click to expand...

for what it's worth i ditto the 'PB BLASTER'. My uncles hd a shop for YEARS, and they SWORE by that stuff:waving:

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I've actually been using the PB blaster on the other ones to no avail so far, Guess I need to get my mess sorted out with the broken one first. Honda still has the bleeders available, but does anyone know what size tap I need to get the threads correct? Also If I have to drill and retap do I need to dissassemble the entire caliper, or can I just blow the shavings out of the hole that the line comes in on?

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Didn't know that you had taken it to that state, yes tap it to the next size or find another. Good luck I know that you want to ride.

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I would buy some used ones if you can get them cheap enough.

RB has some, that sounds like a good deal to me.

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I went thru the same thing on my '79. I bought an Ebay caliper finaly. It's easy & not much $$.

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remove them from bike mounting and give them some heat with a butane torch for about 20 secs each time spray them with pb blaster each time after they cool a little bit and i think they will break loose so u can remove them ....heatwrenching at its best