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I know nothing about buffing, but I bought a buffing wheel, put it in one of my corded drills and couldn't even get the rouge on the wheel. Also tried to put some polishing compound on the wheel and that failed. What am I doing wrong?

 

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You need to have the wheel spinning while pressing it into the compound block.
 

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Just not fast enough or hard enough.
 

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Just not fast enough or hard enough.
Why does that strike me as just dirty? Oh well, he's right. I've never used a wheel on a drill, but I have a 8" bench grinder set up with a buffing wheel and a bunch of little wheels for my dremel. Usually just spin 'em up and touch the rouge to it firmlyand the wheel changes color.

I wouldn't recomend trying to use polishing compound with a buffing wheel though, I tryed that on a set of valve covers once and it just made a really big mess and didn't polish jack, assuming we're talking about the same kind of polishing compound.

What are you trying tobuff?
 

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I tried to polish a bolt. That just shredded the HF wheel, so I tried to buff a piece of Lexan with the polishing compound and it didn't buff anything.
 

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scotterichmond wrote:
Just not fast enough or hard enough.
ummmmmmmmmmm this statement reminds me of something my wife keeps telling me......



uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh i gotta keep it clean but its such a dirty thought omg....
 

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I tried to polish a bolt. That just shredded the HF wheel, so I tried to buff a piece of Lexan with the polishing compound and it didn't buff anything
I think lexan can only be buffed by hand, buffing wheels generate a good bit of heat that's more than enough to screw up a piece of lexan (I think). What kind of wheel are you using? A stitched wheel? A flap wheel? And how bad was the shredding?

When ever I buff something I can easily fill a dust pan with the shreddings of the wheel. It gets quite messy. If you're trying stuff like bolts, you may want to seriously consider a harbor frieght bench grinder with a 8" stitched wheel.
 

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I did a tutorial on buffing a while back. buffing the B-girl. I don't think you will get far with a drill motor.
One trick I use for buffing bolts is to put the bolt in a drill chuck so you can spin it while your buffing it. plastics can be buffed but it takes spacial wheels and compounds.

If you do much of it expect to end up looking like a coal miner that just pulled a double shift.

Steve
 

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What's wrong with dirty wheels:?
 

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If I ever decide to put mine in a museum, then I'll buff the wheels!!!:ROFL:
 

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I recommend wearing a breathing mask as well . No need to inhale all that rouge and cloth fibres . I know , I know its uncomfortable .
 

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SuperSkypilot wrote:
I did a tutorial on buffing a while back. buffing the B-girl. I don't think you will get far with a drill motor.
One trick I use for buffing bolts is to put the bolt in a drill chuck so you can spin it while your buffing it. plastics can be buffed but it takes spacial wheels and compounds.

If you do much of it expect to end up looking like a coal miner that just pulled a double shift.

Steve
As Steve says. It takes special compound & wheels. Also the wheel speed is critical. I'm not sure what kind of drill you are using but most drills are too fast for proper aluminum polishing.I used to make trophies & we did a lo0t of special presitations out of plexiof all thickness. If you want to polish a windshiel, I recomend that you do it by hand.
 

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That's funny I just put one of those wheels meant for a drill on my small table grinder I got from HF, I just took off the wheel and the cover guards and made the hole in the buffing wheel larger to fit, now I get the speed these guys are talking about..
 

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Well, it's getting better. I now have rouge on the wheel. :claps:

And, I have done some aluminum buffing on a carb cover. I need to go back and sand again with finer paper, as some sanding marks are not coming out.

Steve; that Mother's polish...is the intake tube in that pic really hand polished? If so that's impressive, and something I want to try. Can I use that stuff with a wheel?
 

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Steve; that Mother's polish...is the intake tube in that pic really hand polished? If so that's impressive, and something I want to try. Can I use that stuff with a wheel?
I know the question is for Steve, and he should still answer it, but I'll take this shot to vouch for that mothers mag and alluminum polish, that stuff is almost magical. simple hand buffing with that is almost as good as 5 min ona buffing wheel as long as you have a good clean surface. I found that stuff a few months back and it brought my luggage rack back from the dead in about 15 min total.

You mentioned you had sanding marks that weren't coming out, try some fine steel wool, I find those scratches come out easer than the ones frompaper.
 

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Bike...and Dennis wrote:
Steve; that Mother's polish...is the intake tube in that pic really hand polished? If so that's impressive, and something I want to try. Can I use that stuff with a wheel?
Dennis:
Yes all by hand. Once You get the clear coat off, all you need is some Mothers, a terrycloth rag and some elbow grease. Mothers polishes chemically not with grit so a wheel isn't much help.

Steve
 

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polishing aluminum is best with fine sand paper and WD-40. just keep spraying WD on what ever is aluminum
 

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Well, on my test piece, (a carburetor top) I went first with 320, then 600 grit paper. Once the scratcheswere out, I buffed it first on the wheel, then with the mothers by hand. It was coming along, but slowly, so I went back to the wheel and then back to mothers, but couldn't quite get the chrome look on the flat surface.

Finally decided to try Turtle Wax polishing compound and that did the trick. Topped it off with a coat of wax and it's close enough to chrome for my first try. I could see myself in the finish. The down side? I could see myself in the finish. :shock:
 

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SETHAN12 wrote:
What's wrong with dirty wheels:?
+1
Let's ride!!!
 
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