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I will be showing how to make the Travel Bags with the GL1800 Bags & center filler panel only.
Used 1/4" or 3/16" X 3" flat sheet for the braces mount.
You will need to make the cut to match the bag shape.
Drill & tap 2 holes each at 22 3/4" center to center.
Install using the stock bolts that came with the bike.
Using 2" X 2" x 1/8" square tubing drill the hole for the pin.
I used a center punch the fit the hole in the hitch to line them up.
Also drilled a 3/8" hole for the wiring to run inside the tubing.
Don't have the length set as yet.
Will be different between mount to Bike/Car or Trike.
You will need to open the Trike Trunk to get you helmet out at least.
You can weld the tubing on now being sure the bags are squared.
This will also help to keep them square as you move them around.



Remove the 2 screws on the front inside as you will be cutting this area off.



Cut the 2 side mount tabs off to get them out of the way.
Will also be cutting the top bag mount tab off.
Carefully cut the outside lip off using a 4" -4.5" cut off wheel on the grinder.
Then cut the inside lip off. You will be cutting the rubber seal off in the area.
Don't worry as it will be sealed when the new center floor in installed.
Carefully sand the lip smooth to bad inner & outer edge.
The dotted line in the picture shows where the floor will be mounted with pop rivets.
Check out the pictures.

Tools needed so far:
Drill & tap Home depot $8.00
Heavy Duty 4-1/2" Angle Grinder Harbor Freight $29.00 (on sale $19.95)
Package of 4.5" disc. Harbor Freight $15.00, comes with cut off, sanding & grinding disc.



Next step will be to build the floor.
To be Cont.!

Since the floor for the GL1800 is fairly flat ( unlike the GL1500 ) with a curve in the front, I'm going to experiment using one layer of mat to shape it.
It should be flexible enough to trim to fit & make the curve
Using some Tile Board ( Home Depot ) lay one layer of 1.5oz mat and apply resin, roll it out & let cure.



Make a card board patten of the floor to tranfer to the fiber glass sheet made.





OK, cut the floor shape out of the sheet of fiber glass.
I did it went it was gelling but not completely cure.
Slide it under the bag braces & tape it down & let it finish curing.





The single mat has harden but still a little bendeee.
Remove the masking tape which was holding it place.
Removed the top brace to be able to glass it easier.
Tape up the outside area with the plastic tape so the glass won't stick to it.
Laid 2 layers of 1 1/2oz mat on it & rolled it out.
Waiting dry time now



The resin has dried so I removed it & cleaned up any boo boo's on the bags.
Trimmed the edges. & check for good fit, GREAT!
Will brace the outside of the floor as this is now the mold.
The floor will be part of the KIT if I get any looker or buyer
You can go ahead & rivet the floor to the bags.
Make sure the metal brace on on & the bags are square before doing that.
Check out the pictures for the nice fit.
The outside will be smooth.







This morning I cut up some 2x4 for bracing of the floor.
Used the resin putty to attach & will lay 2 layers of mat around them.
Will also add some cross bracing
Doing this as I will be using this as a mold.



Finished added the wood braces & fiber glassed them on to the floor panel.



OK, so here's the mold for the floor.
Waxed it 5 times & spraying the release on it now.
May have a floor by this evening.



Apply what I had left of the BLACK gel coat & it's now cured.
Laid 3 layers of 1.5oz mat & rolled it out.
It's now sitting out in the nice warm sun.



The floor is finished.
Trimmed & Installed the floor with 3/16 Alum. pop rivets.
Install both metal braces & be sure to square the bags before you rivet.
Be sure to apply the silicone sealer on the ares in front where the bags were trimmed earlier.
Apply sealer along the back edge of the floor panel were it goes to the center filler panel.
After all rivets were in tight, apply sealer along all edges inside & out, smoothed with finger.
Also use whats on your finger & cover all rivets.
Will be making an "L" bracket which will mount off of the center reflector to the floor.
Will spray the bottom with rubber sealer to further help seal it.
There will be a vinyl bra snapped on to cover the front floor area.
This way no painting will be needed.
At this time you could make a vinyl cover for the top which can snap on, as on the "Tag-A-Long" bags.
I will be making a fiberglass hard top for it.

Addition tools needed:
Hand Riveter Set Harbor Freight $5.99 (on sale $4.99)
3/16" rivets box of 25 Home Depot $3.00
1 Tube of silicone sealer Home Depot $6.00
Clacking gun Home Depot $5.00


Made a special License Plate for the Travel Bags, Can be made in assorted colors.
Think I was a little shaky on the close up 1st picture, need my AM coffee



 

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Discussion Starter #3
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This is the only bike with with a hitch right now.
It's sitting in the weeds right now



 

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What's the red car with the wire wheels in photo #1??
 

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looks Like MG
 

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rgbeard wrote:
What's the red car with the wire wheels in photo #1??
!973 Restored Spitfire.
 

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Well I wasnt even close
 

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Lightin wrote:
Well I wasnt even close
You were close, they are both English.
 

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With the trike in the garage I got some newer picture of the Travel Bags.
1st pictures shows the GL1500 which will go with the trike when I sell it.







2nd pictures shows the GL1800 Travel Bag before I made the lid.



 

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Question Skip???? Will these Travel Bags get in front of the stock license plates on 1500. and 1800's ?????.....These travel bags would look great on my 1100, but I have after market light bars and my license plate is a little lower than "stock" mounting.....Will this be a problem with the local PD's?????? Other than that I like the design and think that later on this might be the answer to not pulling my pop up camper on just a "day trip"....

Claude.....
 

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Went to junk yard & found the tail light sockets, bulbs & wiring.
So this morning been building the harness which will go up to the bike.
Standard 4 pin plug in.

 

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OK, back to work on the 1800 Travel Bags.
Starting to form the fiber glass lid for it.
Cut & shape the 3/8" form board I have laying around to fit the sides, front & back.
Will also be adding 1/8" Tile board this time to make a better mold.
Been wetting the top & side pieces to be able to bend them to fit.
If I'm lucky, may Have it finished by tonight & be able to make the mold on Sunday.
That all depends on the bending of the top which I had trouble with on the 1500 model & gave up on the idea for it.
Designing this lid a little diffident for a better fit as there may not be a rubber seal on this one.
 

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Here's a picture showing the SUPER BENDER JIG.
Wet the back side & add weight.

 

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Still bending the Tile Board.
There are 2 sides, 1 rear & the top I need to get shaped.
Will lay the top on this evening hoping to get the finish bend.
Then will need to trim the top & glue everything together. In the AM.

 

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Tops (small crack in center but OK) on & clamped down for the night. See you in the morning.

 

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skip it looks like it would be much easier to just cut some plywood in bows the shape you want them. then screw or glue some thin lexan or just cheap thin board to the bows. just like they do the boat mold. you can use the lip of the bags for the pattern then fill the screw heads and edges with clay or filler? no clamping no waiting. just a thought.
 

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5AM, the curved top came out nice overnight.
Used double stick tape & mounted the side panels to the form spacers.
Applied form glue caulking along the top edge & placed the top panel in place, Clamped it down.
Wait for it to dry then trim & round over the corner. Prep for mold making.
Today will be finishing the car top holding rails I mold for the pickup bed cover.
Got it in junkyard from Land Cruiser, widen it to fit the cover.
It's painted & ready to mount, I hope.
Got it mounted.
Rest of the day was mostly yard work & clean up, then over to mother in law for a good steak dinner.
 

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skoto1 wrote:
skip it looks like it would be much easier to just cut some plywood in bows the shape you want them. then screw or glue some thin lexan or just cheap thin board to the bows. just like they do the boat mold. you can use the lip of the bags for the pattern then fill the screw heads and edges with clay or filler? no clamping no waiting. just a thought.
Tried that on the 1500 top in a way & I must have screwed up because it warped on me.
Will be glassing this one as it sits on the bags with 2 layers of glass.
Then can take it off & add more.
 

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Getting the lid plug for the GL1800 Travel Bags ready to lay up a mold.



The mold is made & the release has been washed off.

 
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