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Planning a Trip to Orlando, Fl in mid Oct., so building a Trailer to tow the Trike down with me.
This is Spiderbob's (Forum Member & a really nice guy) design that I copied, thinks to the picture & drawing he sent me.
Had to change a few thing as my Trike is longer the stock.
Plus will be using a Toque Axle with Ford rims& fiberglass fender from a Mold I made a long time ago.
Here's the lay out.



This show some of the metal I pick up at the scape yard.
Will need to clean the rust off of it before painting it Yellow tp match the Trike.
Got the 2"x3" tubing all cut & ready to go.



REMOVED
(Driving out to Rockwell, NC in the AM to pickup the jag rear end w/ 2.88 gearing.)
So won't be till Fri to start the tack welding.

Trailer will have a channel ramp in the middle & 2 fold down ramp for the rear tires.
Will cover it with expanded metal.
 

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Your going to use a car rear gear ...... for what????? You are going to take the ring and pinion out aren't you?????? It would seem to me to cause drag if the gears are left in place. Two pennies.
 

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vtxcandyred wrote:
Your going to use a car rear gear ...... for what????? You are going to take the ring and pinion out aren't you?????? It would seem to me to cause drag if the gears are left in place. Two pennies.
The trailer has a trailer axle.
The Jag rear end is case I build another Trike using that rear end.
 

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skip20 wrote:
vtxcandyred wrote:
Your going to use a car rear gear ...... for what????? You are going to take the ring and pinion out aren't you?????? It would seem to me to cause drag if the gears are left in place. Two pennies.
The trailer has a trailer axle.
The Jag rear end is case I build another Trike using that rear end.
DOH!!!!!!!!!!!:dumb:
 

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Skip, the trailer layout looks good . AS to the Jag axle , do you find the 2.88:1 ratio a little high ? I am guessing your running shorter tires to make this work ok ?
 

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OnaWingandaPrayer wrote:
Skip, the trailer layout looks good . AS to the Jag axle , do you find the 2.88:1 ratio a little high ? I am guessing your running shorter tires to make this work ok ?
No, bigger tires.
The bike stock is 2.93 I think.?
The new jag diff has 2.88.
The old one had 3.31
Maybe I shouldn't have mentioned the Jag rear end in this Post.
It's for the Trailer I'm building.
 

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skip20 wrote:
OnaWingandaPrayer wrote:
Skip, the trailer layout looks good . AS to the Jag axle , do you find the 2.88:1 ratio a little high ? I am guessing your running shorter tires to make this work ok ?
No, bigger tires.
The bike stock is 2.93 I think.?
The new jag diff has 2.88.
The old one had 3.31
Maybe I shouldn't have mentioned the Jag rear end in this Post.
It's for the Trailer I'm building.
You said it was for a trike you may build later.
 

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OK, back to work.
Have the major parts cut for the frame & laid them out on the floor.
I notched the front tubing to cover the side rail & cap them.
One small tack weld in the top 4 corner of the frame.
Then you need to square it.
The best way is to cross corner to corners & they MUST be ever within 1/32" or better.
See picture!
I was lucky it was right on.
If not get help.
Someone hold one top corner & you hammer the bottom other corner to SQUARE the frame.
When square tack the Frame main rail & keep check for square.
You can see most garage floors are not FLAT so I use wood door jam wedges to level the parts being welded.

 

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Got the rest of the parts needed to finish the trailer today.
Got metal fenders instead of building the fiberglass ones.
Building the frame up-side-down, so you are looking at the bottom.
Put a 1/8"x 8" Plate in the center of the front to support the front tire over the expanded metal sheet.
Then added a 2"x2"x3/16" angle in the center.
Think this is over kill because all of the tubing is also 3/16", but nothing to good for my baby.
It's also all I could get, no 1/8" on stock.
A few cross bracing up front & the 2 angle up to the tow bar, (shown, not mount)
Total cost less the labor comes in at about $750.00, Parts & Supplies.

 

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That looks awesome Skip. Nice job. Keep posting with results :) I just got my computer back up and running. I'm alive, I'm alive, yahoo

OK, I just erased most of what I wrote, cause I was writing faster than my mind was thinking, and I was not being very accurate.

Looks great, wish I had used a torsion axle, they are great. :applause:
 

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Flipped the frame over & finished the welding on top.
Top view give you a better idea as to what it looks like.
Need to add the 2 piece's to the rear side, then start working on the axle placement.


 

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Well it's starting to look more like a trailer now.
Cut & widen the axle 12" to fit the frame rails.
Now to build the side mounts & attach the axle.
Running 15: Ford Ranger rimes & tires for now.





It's a little dark in the garage for pictures.
 

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Still working on the Trike Trailer.
Made the mounts for the front wheel holder.
Cut a ramp I had laying around to length & tapered cut both ends.
Will have slip on hinge pins so it ca be removed.
Have a bar the swing away to hold the ramp up when not in use.
Turned the axle around & mounted it upside down.
Now have height of 13" with 7.5" clearance on the axle.
Hitch wight now is est at about 20 LBS.
Balance is real close to center of axle as about 10 lbs on the back will lift the front up.

 

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Your going to be done in notime at this rate. :)
 

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That's it for today.
Trimmed the expanded metal for the from.
So it's ready to weld on after I get the 2x2 bracing done in the front.
Looks like I need to cut about a foot off the center ramp or the side ramps would be 6' long.
That mean cutting the cross bar off & moving it forward also.
 

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looks great.
 

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Nice Trailer ;)...... I think your weakest place is going to be those two rear platforms for the rear tires of the trike. Pretty long out there .... and the one long continuous member has been welded across it's sides on both sides.

It's interesting ...... though I believe I would have added some 6" long 3" wide 3/16" plates either side of main frame rails and welded lengthwise only (like a truck frame when plated after alteration) and then welded my last full crossmember and rear ramp / pads from there so no welds across the main rails at near mid point. Not qustioning your welding, I just hate to weld across frame members near half way on both sides ... but it may never be a problem.

I see that you (or whomever drew the plan) moved the axle forwards of the trailer's real centerto enable the longer rear ramp / pads (the red and blu lines are same length, just used to compare ends) and that you have about 26" between the rear ramp / pads.

It'll look nice and have a "special built" look to it though.;)

Do you have some notion of where your trike's center of mass is reletive to it's length (the balance point) ?

Nice drawing ....buta trailer carries it's weight on the body and you don't meassure the center as being beween the hitch ball and rear of trailer. Center is thecenter of the general load carrying portion, exclusive of tongue.



:thumbsup:
 

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Skip, you might want to add a cross member (removable) from just about at the furthest point rear under the center ramp to hold it up in position. then you can just remove that piece instead of crawling under to set the center ramp as I did before I finally got smart. I don't remove that cetner ramp anymore :) just lift it up out of the way.

There is only about 400 pounds per wheel - give or take, not a lot of weight.
 

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Shorten center ramp & installed with hinges.
Move the support bar up to match it.

 

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skip20 wrote:
Still working on the Trike Trailer.
... etc ...
Hitch wight now is est at about 20 LBS.
Balance is real close to center of axle as about 10 lbs on the back will lift the front up.

When you weld those two more outside pieces on the rear, it will stand up then. That wide wtrip for the front tire is what's holding the front down.



I think you are going to be better served if you add some to tongue as well.
 
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