Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

I had it running and installed correctly( the auto Alternator) but my battery wasnt recharged by the alternator.I had thealternatorvtested at Autozone before I put it onvand they said it was good.

I`ve hooked the terminal that says batt to the battery.I then hooked the black and white wire (exiter,according to PoorBoy Don) to a switched item..which I take to mean something that gets power when the key is turned on.

At idle,at the battery,its pushing just under 12 .Now if I rev it up,that number climbs.

I havent tested the bike on the road yet..have only run it at idle in the garage so dont know if running it down the road willl change anything.I should be getting a higher number onmy multimeter at the battery,correct?

Am I measuring DC Volts,AC Volts,DC Current or what?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
imported post

I get 13.7 out of it when I run it at 4200 rpms.

At 2300 rpms,it puts out 13.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,040 Posts
imported post

Something is not quite right there You should be at 13volts D/C at least on a good alternator Amps are measured in series well over the10 amps most meters can handle A/C volts should be close to or at zero

Are you sure they load tested it?

The alt I bought only requires a switched 12 volt DC onto one wire only. The other wire is for the trouble light that would be on the car's dash So step one is to apply power to one of your two small leads in turn From what I understand(not much) you can't or should not apply power to both. Then if that is OK what size of pulley did you put on engine you want that alt spinning at least 3000 rpm

Neil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
imported post

I used the pulley Poorboy Don sent in his kit to do the conversion.Are you saying maybe the wrong wire is hooked to a switched 12v source? I can change them around and check,just dont want to break anything.:goofygrin:

It has to be in the alternator or my wirng,correct?

Let me clarify ..

I have one wire running from the large nut terminal to my positive terminal on the battery.

I ran another wire from the black/white wire coming out of the plug in the back of the alternator to a switched source..the terminal thats forward of the fuse box(it has a screw and 2 other wires coming out.I tested it with a light and its powerless when the key is off)

Thats it
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,185 Posts
imported post

I think you want the small wire connected to a terminal that has power when the key is in the RUN position only.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
imported post

What might I hook up to thats on in the run position only? I actually think what I`m hooked to is on only when the keys in "Run" position.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,185 Posts
imported post

zonk, I will have to look in my Clymer. What I ment was if it is hooked to the accessory terminal, the alternator will be excited even when you have the key on 1 notch, if you want to listen to the radio. It would put more drain on the battery.
As for the idle speed charging problem, I'm not sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
imported post

Isnt it obvious that the alternator is putting out when it raises when I raise rpms? I have a feeling I have something hooked up wrong.

If nothing else works,I`ll take the alternator down and have it retested,but I know it read fine the first time.

Thanks for the help.
 

·
Old School Guru
Joined
·
7,887 Posts
imported post

From reading and re-reading it sounds like the alternator is putting out a charge, although a low charge. I think that you have a weak internal regulator in the alternator and it isn't putting out at least 14.7 volts at about 4000 rpm, which is what it should. Now from reading other info on this subject, it would seem that with the small pully that is in Don's kit, at idle speeds, the output is nil. A little larger crank pully (1 inch larger) will allow the alternator to put out at least 13.2 or better at idle. This will allow the alternator to put out full 14.7 volts at about 1800 rpm, I would figure. A weak alternator coupled with a undersize drive pully is going to give a low charge rate. IMHO.:D

Gene:waving::11red::11red::11red::cooler:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
imported post

OK,more info and more puzzlement on my part..

I have taken readings at the battery terminal on both the alternator and the positive side of the battery.It reads 11.7 most of the time,jumping up or down 1 or 2
10ths.

I can hear the alternator "labor" if I disconnect and reconnect the exciter wire..therefore I know I have a good connection there.

If I disconnect the battery wire and take a measurement at the battery terminal on the alternator,it will jump up to 19.7,sometimes 20.So hooking it to the battery makes it only put out 11.7,but letting it "free"charge(if thats a term) and it`ll bump itself up to almost 20.

Could I have something wrong in my wiring? Could the Alternator be faulty?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
93 Posts
imported post

hey zonk. on mine there are three prongs and then the big nut, if your looking at it as it is mouted there is a single prong on top then two on the bottom, i used the bottom left prong to run to the switch source, should be a little diagram on the alt somewhere that shows you which one is for the igniton. its is marked with a I. good luck
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
93 Posts
imported post

one more thing. i took off that plug, hooked up one spade to the bottom left prong . that is the one that run to your switch source. i assume we have the same alts. came off of the same year i believe. Hammer
 

·
Postpubescent member
Joined
·
36,382 Posts
imported post

Don't disconnect the output wire between the battery and the alternator while it's spinning, so far you've been lucky but it's an easy way to fry the thing. I've been wondering if your alternator has in internal regulator and if the original regulator is still on the bike?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
93 Posts
imported post

exavid i wonder the same thing, i did the conversion about a month ago, probably have 2,000 miles on it now, no problems at all. my voltages are all within range, little bit low at a slow idle, from what i understand some automobiles suffer from that as well. if anyone finds out if those alts have a internal regulator let me know. i will try to find out tomorrw and post it. Hammer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
imported post

exavid wrote:
Don't disconnect the output wire between the battery and the alternator while it's spinning, so far you've been lucky but it's an easy way to fry the thing. I've been wondering if your alternator has in internal regulator and if the original regulator is still on the bike?
The original regulator is still on the bike and the Auto Alt has an internal regulator.

I havent disconnected the bikes original regulator yet,but will in a few hours and check again.

Even when I rev the engine,I dont get much above 13 on the voltage test..but as I said,if I unhook the line running to the battery from the Alt it pushes up to 20,almost as though the battery is telling it its fully charged so dont gimme no more juice,yet the battery goes dead if I run it awhile with the llights and radio on.

Hammer..I found a diagram with the three prongs and what theyre for..I know I`m using the correct terminal for the exciter wire.I even started the bike up and ran a jumper from the positive side of the battery to the exciter wire to make sure it was getting juice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
imported post

Could I have a drain somewhere thats shorting it out ? I determined my stator was bad by running the ac volts test on the 3 yellow wires..2 were in the 50`s and one was 13,so I know the stators badoperated as a car alternator coud not be working...It just seems weird something as simply wired and run could be so perplexing.I watched the test on the alternator so I know it was done and read correctly.

I guess checking the battery should be next..even though it takes a full charge from my battery charger but wont from the alternator.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
imported post

I took the alternator off and had it tested again..it is fine. I also had the battery tested and they said it was bad,but I have no confidence in those guys at all.Can a bad battery diminish the amount it lets the alt. charge it? Does this s ound like it may be the problem?

I cant imagine what else it could be.It`ll take a charge from my battery charger.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
93 Posts
imported post

to be honest with you zonk, i am not real sure about bikes, i have had cars with bad batteries and they act a lot like the alt is bad on them. they are only as good as the charge you can get into them, new batteries arent much at all. 35 or 40 bucks, if yours is a few years old probably wouldnt hurt to get a new one anyways sounds like if your alt tested good. sounds like you have the wireing correct. i would bet the battery would fix your problem then lot of these guys on here are real sharp on this stuff, they can give you a more exact opinon. good luck, Hammer
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,185 Posts
imported post

zonk,
If I had your problem, here's what I would try. Get a good car battery and sit it on the groung beside the bike. connect the alternator to the car battery (pos, neg & exciter) so the alternator just charges the car battery, not the bike.
Now hook up the test meter and run the bike.
If it charges up to 14+ volts easy, you will know there's a problem in the bike.
If it charges like it does in the bike, I would think the problem is the alternator.
Just a thought.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top