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Hey All-

Just getting around to putting on the DC harness this afternoon, but I ran into a rather toasty starter solenoid plug...take a look at the photo

I guess the solenoid is ok because the bike starts ok, but I guess I need to replace the plug before I can put on the DC harness.

Any suggestions?

Thanks Jeff
 

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Nah !! That looks good enough ./forums/images/emoticons/sad.gif.. You should be able to spray paint that , polish it up , and get anouther 5 years outa it /forums/images/emoticons/shock.gif... LOL... NOT !!!                                                                                                                                   Thats just Gotta go!!!... But you should spend a little of the Re- and Re time  figuring out just why it did this ....  Is your starter drawing too much current ?   are  some of the starter windings shorting out to Ground ??   Is your bike "Hard" to start, and taking 10 to 15 seconds of cranking ,instead of 2 seconds ??     Clearly a Lotta  current went thru that poor old switch... and  its death by heat  prostration is trying to tell you something .../forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/baffled.gif Silver Dave ...        /forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif                  
 

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You will be modifying some of the connections on this solenoid with the EC harness. you no longer need the red/white wire. The solid red wire will also tie into the new harness. If you can get the melted plug off without destroying the solenoid and it still works for starting reuse it . Cut the remainding two wires off the plug (green/red & yellow/red) and install female spade connectors sheilded preferably or shield with heat shrink and plug them back on their respective terminals.

Another option if the solenoid is no good is go to your local autoparts store and find a starter solenoid like Ford uses ( I will try to find a part # for you ) but it can't be one that uses the case for a ground. It musthave both + & - terminals for the relay magnetic coilor the neutral saftey and clutch switch will not keep the motor from starting.

I will try to figure out a part # that will work and get back to you.

Hope this helps

Keith
 

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SilverDave wrote:
Nah !! That looks good enough ./forums/images/emoticons/sad.gif.. You should be able to spray paint that , polish it up , and get anouther 5 years outa it /forums/images/emoticons/shock.gif... LOL... NOT !!! Thats just Gotta go!!!... But you should spend a little of the Re- and Re time figuring out just why it did this .... Is your starter drawing too much current ? are some of the starter windings shorting out to Ground ?? Is your bike "Hard" to start, and taking 10 to 15 seconds of cranking ,instead of 2 seconds ?? Clearly a Lotta current went thru that poor old switch... and its death by heat prostration is trying to tell you something .../forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/baffled.gifSilver Dave ... /forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif
I'm pretty sure I know what it was, about a month ago I was having trouble getting it started. I spent a lot of time cranking on it
 

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Lone Star wrote:
You will be modifying some of the connections on this solenoid with the EC harness. you no longer need the red/white wire. The solid red wire will also tie into the new harness. If you can get the melted plug off without destroying the solenoid and it still works for starting reuse it . Cut the remainding two wires off the plug (green/red & yellow/red) and install female spade connectors sheilded preferably or shield with heat shrink and plug them back on their respective terminals.

Another option if the solenoid is no good is go to your local autoparts store and find a starter solenoid like Ford uses ( I will try to find a part # for you ) but it can't be one that uses the case for a ground. It musthave both + & - terminals for the relay magnetic coilor the neutral saftey and clutch switch will not keep the motor from starting.

I will try to figure out a part # that will work and get back to you.

Hope this helps

Keith
Keith-

The bike still starts up no problem, so I don't need the ford part number, but I guess it wouldn't hurt to post it in case someone else needs the information.

I know you mentioned the EC harness, but I have the DC harness. There are many similiarities I'm sure. The directions I have mention connecting the harness to the bigger red wire and ignore the red/white wire. I guess that I should rewirethe red/whiteone back in too...

What do you think?

Thanks for your help...Jeff
 

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You no longer need the red/white wire, it is the charging wire from the voltage regulator.You will be bypassing this wire with the new harness so it doesnt need to be hooked back up to the solenoid. The solenoid houses the main fuse(supplys power to every thing except the starter)so what you will be doingis connecting the red wire to the DC harness that has a inline fuse that connects directly to the battery.

My bike , also an '86 Aspy, melted its plug as well. as I mentioned before all power for the bike runs thru this plug.A little corrosion here and thermal meltdown. The plug is the problem. So install your DC harness and never worry about it again:jumper:

Good luck

Keith
 

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Hi,

Looks almost like the solenoid on my bike. Bad connectios/corrosion caused it to heat up. I watched mine smoke!! I removed all the burnt plastic, cleaned the terminals, and put new ends on the wires. Also used lots of dielectric greas. Been fine since.

Tom
 

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Everyone should be considering doing the fusable link bypass-a la Twisty- Cut the red red/white wires off at good bright wire position, solder them together and to one pigtail of a sealable ATO spade fuse(30 amp), and connect the other end to the + battery term. with a ring connection.
 

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That's good information to have Keith, thanks for sharing it. I know someone who has a gl1200 and the solenoid is toasted like yours and we were wondering why this happens. Now we know.
 

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Keith-

I finished up putting the DC harness on and cleaned up the starter relay including new spades on on the terminals...the bike started right up and it has never run better. Headlight is brighter...quickest start I have ever had with my bike

Thanks for the help

Jeff
 

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Great :jumper::toast::banana:

Now check your charging voltage at the batterywith the rpms at about 3000 with no electrical load only low beam, cooling fan not running & radio off. Mine runs about 14.7 volts. If yours runs 15 volts or more let me know I've got some checks I can guide you through there as well.


Keith
 

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DC Harness, could you please elaborate on this. I find that whenever I need to wire up anything on a bike I use leads for an electric motor. The insulation is rated at 1000 VAC RMS and the wire is twisted fine. DC voltage has a tendancy to travel along a wire within the core or the centre part of the wire whereas AC power travels on the outer circumference of the wire.

This DC harness I keep reading about, please explain to me its purpose. Also the EC harness.

On my 1980 all the wires were OK but all the connectors were dirty with 25 years of weather, 25 years of use and 25 years of neglect. Any time a voltage travels through a connector, part of the connector is removed and added to the other side simply because of electron motion and over time corrosion, electrolysis and break down takes place. Time and use is the enemy and unless the terminals are gold or gold plate wear and tear takes place simply because electrons hate each other and will shove other electrons down the line. DC voltage cannot withstand voltage drops and each and every connector is a source of voltage drop. Add to this the excessive amps needed to make up the lack of voltage and heat takes place. By this I mean if the consumer needs 100 watts at 12 volts and only 11 volts are there then to operate at the power level required the amps will increase by a factor of the voltage drop. This will happen for a while and then one day you notice a lack of .... and when you check it out the connector, the operator is burned up.

Please use caution with dielectric grease since at 12 VDC all grease save only one is dielectric. If you want conductive grease go to any good plating shop and ask what they use between the copper bus joints, I am having a brain fart and cannot remember the trade name.

Thank you for your patience and I look forward to the DC and EC explanations,



Al Knapp
 

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I have an 86 Aspencade what DC harness are you talking about and what does it replace ,, dummy me .. what is the part # for this .. Larry
 

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ok... In a brief nutshell..   (There will be a test  at the end )                                                                                  The 1200 stators fry themselves to death for two reasons...                                                                                                                                                                           #1   The three yellow wire plug by the stator gets slightly corroded, builds up a tremendous resistance  (I= V/r )  and the increased  current inside the stator windings  causes it to short out../forums/images/emoticons/shock.gif. (Bad plug design by Honda... and                                                                                                                       #2 this model of stator is the only model in any  wing  living in oil and the acid in the (old) oil eats the stator windings../forums/images/emoticons/shock.gif                                                                                                                       ..                                                                                                                                                                                                     #2 is an easy fix... change a 1200's oil often .. (2000  to 3000 ) and certainly before , and after any winter storage.../forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/goofygrin.gif                                                                                                            #1 is a little harder ...  Both DC  (Dave Campbell) and EC (Electrical connections ) supply wiring harness's which  eliminate not only the three yellow wire  connection,  but ALL the iffy connections in the charging circuit ... Either Harness can do wonders as to prolonging the life of your 1200 stator... /forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/grinner.gif                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    http://www.electricalconnection.com/wire-harnesses/hrns_gl1200_charge.htm                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               There you go !!! SilverDave /forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif
 

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----------- Test to follow tomorrow !!!!!--------- Sample : Why is a red bike faster than a bunny with a pancake on its Head ??                                                                                                                                                                           Sample #2  Which is Better ... a DC harness, or a EC harness ?? LOLOLOL
 Silver/forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif
 

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ok... In a brief nutshell.. (There will be a test at the end ) The 1200 stators fry themselves to death for two reasons... #1 The three yellow wire plug by the stator gets slightly corroded, builds up a tremendous resistance (I= V*r ) and the increased current inside the stator windings causes it to short out..
. (Bad plug design by Honda... and #2 this model of stator is the only model in any wing living in oil and the acid in the (old) oil eats the stator windings..




Actually, Ohm's law is V(or E) = I*R. So I=E/R which means as resistance increases in the wiring, current flow in a circuit decreases.



Respectfully,

Beazer
 

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Dave since i just bought this 1200 from and individual how would i tell if this has been fixed , i have read all the post on here about the 3 yellow wires and i have found them and they look ok and are in a connector when i removed the saddle bag cover i saw some wires in a like cover and it looked like they had black electricians tape on them as you can tell i am new to this.. which of the wiring harnesses are the bet and i cant get to the web site you had on your post . thanks Larry
 

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Although E =I x R it is the power formula of P=(IxI) x R that becomes the problem. In order to maintain the same energy and the same voltage the current increases since it has to overcome the crap and corruption of dirt, dielectric strength or resistance and thus if voltage remains constant and the consumer remains constant but the road or pathway becomes bumpy the electron flow will increase to the point of excessive heat. Then the components break down. The choice is a matter of how do you want to die, by frying with too much voltage or by boiling with too much current, all to do the same job as was designed. To eliminate this problem keep connection clean, solid and dry. It is the dry part that dielectric grease does but when heated this same grease could and does become thinner and then gets in between the electrical connections and could offer more resistance than designed.
 

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 Leo Larry :  The simplest Visual rest is to check if the three yellow wire plug has been hard soldered .. If not/forums/images/emoticons/mad.gif... and you own a 1200.. The best advice is to do so ASAP... but............... before you do that ... unplug the  stator plug, and do the three part test for stator integrity:                                                                                                                                                                                             http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=4553&forum_id=1&highlight=stator+test+                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      ........./forums/images/emoticons/big_grin.gif........and short (lol) of removing  the stator... no easy way to tell if the  stator is original , or a honda replacement    but remain Calm...   a wired  soldered stator will last a long time(years) if you  change your oil regularly ............ SilverDave /forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif
 
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