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21 members show up in idaho 40 in OK if you do a searchby location they pop up

LTD stators are better that stock 1200's so check connections and your regulator The reg fails often Have you done this??

Get a digital voltmeter that measures A/C and DC as well as resistance

Pull battery cover (left side) off and put bike on centre stand



Have battery load tested at battery shop if OK charge overnight measure DC volts straight across battery after charge should be about 13.5-13.9 VDC Reinstall battery.

On the left side of the battery you will see three yellow wires either going to a plug or wired straight thru by previous owner


Disconnect the plug OR cut the three yellow wires one at a time VERY important ONE at a time mark wiresA; B: C; You have to disconnect to get true readings. If left connected a lot of other problems could mislead you. Clean wires leading to stator by about ½ inch. You will be soldering later



Start The bike



This will not hurt the bike in anyway. It will run on the battery

Put meter on A/C scale across any combination A-B;B-C;A-C rev bike to 3000 RPM. You should see 45 to 60 volts A/Cacross any of above combination

If OK shut bike offmeasure on resistance scale (50K is good) from each of three wires to ground It should be infinite EG open must not have any shorts to ground

Measure from A-B; B:-C; A:-C; measurement should be in the vicinity of 1.2 ohms on any of the legs

If all measurements are ok (volts and resistance)your stator is good



Bad News Scenarios



1 A/C volts under 40 V A/C (with wires disconnected and at 3000 RPM)

2 Any leg A: B: or C: shorted to ground (Low or no resistance to ground)

3 Any combination A:-B: B:-C: A:-C: open (infinite resistance)



If stator is bad you may consider the alternator alternative See separate post on that subject

Or it entails pulling engine to replace stator



Ifyou havethe plug cut it out and solder each of the three yellow wires straight thru cover with heat shrink. Follow wiring all the way down to where it enters engine(under sleeve) just to make sure there are no other hidden splices (throw the plug at the neighbour’s cat or some thing it’s a piece of crap)



While you are in the area it is recommended that you change the fuseable link (30 amp main fuse) to a heavy-duty fuse holder with bayonet style fuses. These old fuses have a tendency to corrode and fail at the worst times leaving you with a dead bike



Start bike with meter still attached to battery voltage will go down while cranking over but should come back up to 13 VDC plus when you rev bike turn on Hi Beams volt should drop slightly but still be over 13 VDC if not e.g. 11 to 11.5 dc replace regulator 10 min job (lots on ebay)

 

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Ok, this morning I fire her up and she is charging, for now. I think I'll try pressing onward and see what happens. If this happens again the bike has to be trailered to Idaho. I have no space/time/tools to do anything to the bike other then fix the most rudamentry of problems. I just bought a leatherman knock off an hour ago and thats all the tools I have.

 

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If you are going to run for home buy another battery and a cheap charger Pull your headlight fuse and head off. I drove my 1200 like that for 2 weeks while I figured out the problem i was having.

 

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ccsailor wrote:

While you are in the area it is recommended that you change the fuseable link (30 amp main fuse) to a heavy-duty fuse holder with bayonet style fuses. These old fuses have a tendency to corrode and fail at the worst times leaving you with a dead bike

I have read that this dog-bone fuse can develop cracks that only cause problems when they heat up as in after riding for a while. Then they work again when cooled down, but this would shut the bike down (I believe!) completely, not just stop the charging.

You already have my number if you make it this far I can help what little I can...

 

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Got into Pueblo at about noon, the bike did it again. At this point my dad is going to come down and we will try to load it up.

It's not a bad idea on the head light, but I don't want to try to get that far with it like it is. I think I've asked/gotten enough troubles on this trip.

I think I'll look into the fusable link. My 900 had a pair, one in use and one spare, the main blew on me and the spare was broken. Went to the blade type fuse on it.

Forgot to mention, thanks to everyone that offered to help. It's a big comfort that you guys are out here and willing to help me out.

I figure I'll get the bike home where I have tools and start working on it. Going to have to finish up the work on the 900, just putting the forks together and putting things back to the way they were.

 

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quakeholio, hope you make it allright back home. I am in Walsenburg, CO. About 45 miles south of Pueblo. If you are ever through here or near and need assistance, will be glad to lend a hand (tools, trailer and truck, phone or some other if necessary) will be happy to help out if I can. This goes for all through this area if you need help of some kind like this.

Mike

 

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Wow!! Nice post ccsailor!! Way to go.:clapper::clapper::clapper:

BTW, I added MANA.

~teacher~~~

 

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It sounds like a typical LTD problem. It charges sometimes and not others. When this has been the problem with mine I finally traced it down to the regulator. It is a spendy regulator but it solved the problem 2 times on mine. (one was a used regulator).

Marty :12ltd:

 

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teacher wrote:

Wow!! Nice post ccsailor!! Way to go.:clapper::clapper::clapper:

BTW, I added MANA.

~teacher~~~

Thanks teach

 

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Thanks for the information, always good to know whats going on. I tried again this morning and didn't get anything worth speaking of, but I pulled the fuse for the headlight and another 10V fuse (can't remember what the fuse ran) and I could get the volt meter to run up to about 12.8 as a high.

At this point the bike is a trailer queen, sitting in the back of a powerstroke. The worst part of this is that the bike ran all the easy stuff, I didn't get to take her through the rockies for a work out.

I just looked at the cost for a new Honda regulator from bikebandit, and I see it's about 2x what the electrosport unit costs. Is the Electrosport any good?