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On the camshaft, I pulled it off with the pulley key up on the timing marks. I accidentally rotated it. Will it go back to the position (Timing Marks) if the camshaft is Key up? It should be the same when the pulley key is back up to the original position . Is that correct?
Thanks,
David
 

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David If the cam is bolted back onto the head and head on block ,dont turn it . Either completely loosen the valve adjusters first or pull the cam back off , then turn it back upright and reinstall.
 

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And when you're finished, well you know that, MAKE SURE that you turn the engine by yourhand (using the alternator's bolt) afew turns....todetect any possible mistakeon the easier way....just to remind you:waving:
 

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OnaWingandaPrayer,
I took off the cover, and took the camshaft off to permatex the 2 casting core plugs under the camshaft on the head, and I run some solvent down into the valves (After I got it off) to make sure none was bent, and nothing come out. I then pulled the head, and the Gasket was make of flat steel, and blown pretty bad. Thats why I asked the cam question. I already had taken it off, and accidentally rotayed it off the head. If it comes down to it, I can pull the cover off of my 80 and check it. The pulleys were on the marks, inside and out, key up.
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David
 

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I figure the avbove to be a good soltion. If I am unsure which way the cam sets, (I know the pulley key goes to the front, LOL) I can take the cover off of my 80 and compare both sides, or adjust the valves on #2 and #4 the 83, and try to turn it using a wrench. If it hangs up, I can loosen the lifters and rotate it slowly 180 degrees??, or loosen the complete camshaft and rotate it 180 degrees. With the firing order 1,3, 2, and 4, It should be too difficult. Especially with Intake, Compression, Power, and Exaust. There are several ways to do it, but only one is correct, and try it again without starting the engine. I looked at them when I got the off, and it seems the front cam was up on #2, but I cannot remember. Rotating them to the pulley key always comes up to the same position when you turn the cams 360 degrees, so it should not be difficult to figure out. Best though to do a side by side comparision on the 80. With one side half off on each side of the belts, that tells me one tooth is off, and it's unfortunately the one on the Left #1 side. I am going to double check this carefully after I get it back together. I want to get this right the first time. It took me 3 months last time, just doing the belts, and if it were not for sandigobras (Jim) and others, I would have went nuts, but now I am doing the heads and checking the cams this time, not just the belts. The example I found on here with the belt pics are worth their weight in gold.
The difference in these compared to a V6 or V8 is you only have one cam belt or timing chain to worry about, and now, many have hydraulic lifters. I sometimes Hondah Had them. At least I think I do.
In my previous lettters about this, the provious owner had a mechanic do the right side 400 miles before the left went out, and the owner reuilt the carbs. I called the mechanic, and he did confirm new OEM belts, and right side OEM gasket repair. He should have done both. I synced the carbs until I got 90% of the engine noise down, but it's impossible to sync them without a nanometer, even thugh the 83 has an additional digital RPM readout. It's only single, not 4. Thats how I got the 90% noise out. I done the left side, right side, and cross over with the enging at 2000 rpms, and kept on adjusting the main idle bolt to compensate the rpms. If I put a nanometer on it, it will not even be close, but I got the "Death Rattle" out, then started dismanteling the head. On the carbs,I call it a "Shade Tree Sync", but on the Goldwing, I am just still a "Shade Tree". But at least I can still learn. Read, Study, Read, Study, Read, Study, ask questions, then do.
 
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