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Discussion Starter #4
ok, upon further reading, type F is said to be 5wt, dextron ~10 wt and power steering fluid ~20wt ...waiting for rebuttals
 

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you can use atf, similar to stock oil and have weak suspension response
OR you can ride with the big boys and run 10 or 15 weight fork oil
Clymer book says to change it every 8,000 Miles!!
 

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go to the bike store, look at the lube selection, pick up 1 qt of 10 or 15 fork oil, experiment!!
They make oil specific to the actions of fork tube use, which is not the same as atf
Has anyone heard of using fork in something else? but several `substitutes` `that work` in forks
To me it was 15 bucks well spent on Belray fork fluid, 15w to go with the Progressive springs requirement


A straight oil change in forks is simple,,,just the rebuilding to fix leaks takes some time- after that = easy
Especially for those with air filler valves on the fork caps (remove valve from cap and pour new oil in thru there!)
You can make your own special caps- drill and thread a hole = then you have a fill and drain system that's 1-2-3
 

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ok, upon further reading, type F is said to be 5wt, dextron ~10 wt and power steering fluid ~20wt ...waiting for rebuttals
Power steering fluid or hydraulic oil does not have the additive that fork oil or transmission fluid has to reduce foaming. So, hyd oil or power steering oil=NO, ATF or fork oil,=YES
 

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Sometimes you just can't get a short answer, can you?

Fluid controls damping. If you have stock springs, use ATF or no heavier than 10 wt. oil. (As old as the springs are, root beer might work.) However if you have Progressives, or any other aftermarket springs, then 15wt. is recommended.
 

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go to the bike store, look at the lube selection, pick up 1 qt of 10 or 15 fork oil, experiment!!
They make oil specific to the actions of fork tube use, which is not the same as atf
Has anyone heard of using fork in something else? but several `substitutes` `that work` in forks
To me it was 15 bucks well spent on Belray fork fluid, 15w to go with the Progressive springs requirement


A straight oil change in forks is simple,,,just the rebuilding to fix leaks takes some time- after that = easy
Especially for those with air filler valves on the fork caps (remove valve from cap and pour new oil in thru there!)
You can make your own special caps- drill and thread a hole = then you have a fill and drain system that's 1-2-3
Any suggestions on size and type of screw to use. Would you use thread sealer, or maybe a rubber washer??
 

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I know its on this forum= read about it with a semi-diy pics etc.
That used the same Schrader valve the older Wings with air adjust front forks came with (and some 90s models).
You unscrew the valve unit to fill the oil, so the actual air filler valve part is not important - you could use a bolt and washer in theory (have not tried myself) its not even holding air pressure! (assuming progressive brand springs = no air needed on models where you can adjust))


Try a machine shop type parts store like NAPA, the valve only needs to be long enough to go thru the metal of cap, like the business part of a tire inflation valve. Being able to get a socket on it to remove is important!!
With a drill press and threading tool you can make these.
 

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Here is a link to a thread on how to modify your fork caps to be able to refill with fluid without taking the caps off. If your bike does not have the air filler valves in the cap, this is a good way to fill the forks with oil after draining them. Basically it involves drilling and tapping a hole in the cap to install either an air valve or maybe just a screw with an O-ring under the head to seal it.


http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/367143-air-valves-front-forks.html
 

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I used Dextron-Mercron,in mine,and the damping and the ride is fine.
 

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Have you tried anything else in your forks, or ridden a wing with different setup to know if your ride is fine?
I thought mine was fine too, until the old parts came out, and the difference now with butter smooth steering and no bounce-bounce...
Sometimes FINE means eeefff F It Needs Everything!


thanks for the DIY link bellboy--that's the one I was thinking about
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I looked up on Fleabay and they even have 20w - 40 fork oil? but being "frugal" ATF seems good enough for me. a person can always change it later anyways...and should change it later anyway. are we supposed to change it on ... mileage/hours or years? or is that another topic?


I put fork gators on mine so the polished rods would not collect silt and that silt would get drug through the dust seal and eventually eat the seal and have to do it all over again. the gators are made of a foam that rides TIGHT on the polished rod and I hosed it down with WD 40 type stuff so that it lubricates the top of the dust wiper too (the theory was sound, y/n?).


I read somewhere that someone put 10w-40 motor oil in their forks? I suppose it is better than... NOTHING...that some bikes come with... or nasty water/air/oil mix that is in some forks that have NEVER been serviced, yes? so much for the "short answer" deal, but "short answers" don't convey meaningful INFORMATION TO MAKE GOOD DECISIONS. Never enough time to do it RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, but there is ALWAYS TIME TO DO IT AGAIN. I have "saved money" so many times...cheap'ing out the first time... only to have to do it AGAIN a second time... sometimes a 3rd (but we wont go into that now, thank you).
I HAD a NICE YTM 225 Three Wheeler... for 3 months, it WAS locked up with 2-$5 locks (sigh)...that WERE CUT with a pair of $20 bolt cutters. NOW $20 U LOCKS and 3/8" Grade 70 TRUCKERS CHAIN... with an eye on 1/2" GRADE 100 Dozer chain on Fleabay @ $11' and 3' of 2" hevi wate oilfield pipe cemented in the ground with 2 sacks of cement and... OUT OF SIGHT=OUT OF MIND, bike cover, in back yard, behind stuff so they cannot see it, chain link fence with privacy webbing, 2 locks on gate, 5 lights in back yard....
 

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Anything thicker than about 15 weight is going to make those forks very solid and blow the seals...

I would forgo the heavy stuff, stick with the ATF for now as it will help to clean the innards when you next drain it out. Then, you can decide if more ATF is fine, or want to get something "special".
 

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15 dollars for a quart of the good stuff that will perform better and last longer than the cheapo way to do things = value for dollar spent!
If you are trying to clean things with atf,,ok,, but get on the correct FORK OIL in 10 for stock springs or 15 for progressives


buried in the Clymer book is the notation to `Replace fork oil every 8,000 Miles`, about one or 2 years for most riders
Wing riders may do that in 6 months or one really great road trip!


many here find the fluid was never changed at 80-100 100++ kmiles, and need a seal kit with bushings etc.
This is a case of prevention cost are well worth it! Only $15 a year to keep the suspension like new.
Over time you forget how it used to handle and respond,,everything seems `fine` and its not clearly marked as Replace in the book!!
ohhh the reality that awaits that rebuild!!
 

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Both of the 1984 GL 1200 I 's I've owned had Progressives put in and I used the Dextron/Mercron. Never had a leak,and the ride was the way I liked it.
Changed the fork fluid every year,as part of the Spring pre-ride update.
The first change,though,I always do at around 200 miles,simply to get rid of the junk left in it.
 
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