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78 gl1000 New used coils started backfire as soon as hooked up, at idle. Do I need to re-time, even though I have Dyna Ignition? Thanks:)
oh, yea, cut ends of wires to plugs and screwed in. I would almost swear it has a wire crossed, however, numbers are on wires. from back of bike they are front right 1, fl 2, rr3, and rl 4.
 

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I'd check the primary leads first, you may have them hooked up backwards, in effect, to the wrong coils.
 

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I plugged in the 6 prong that came off coils to proper place, did have problem with couple female ends pushed in.. but only other wires that were not already plugged into coils were the 2 I put on Resistor. Which are you referring to?
 

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I'm checking a few things right now. Adobe reader keeps crashing my computer. Since it has the 6 wire plug I'm sure it connects only 1 way.

The right coil fires cylinders 1 & 2, left coil fires 3 & 4.
Wires to capacitor are a solid yellow and a black/yellow.

 

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Your timing is not affected by new coils. The Right hand coil feeds the front two jugs and the Left hand coil feeds the back two jugs. Do you have a multimeter? you need to read Resistance from the plug cap on #1 to the plug cap on # 2. And again from # 3 to # 4 For a stock system in proper working order you should see about 24,000 ohms.
 

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Whiskerfish wrote:
Your timing is not affected by new coils. The Right hand coil feeds the front two jugs and the Left hand coil feeds the back two jugs. Do you have a multimeter? you need to read Resistance from the plug cap on #1 to the plug cap on # 2. And again from # 3 to # 4 For a stock system in proper working order you should see about 24,000 ohms.
Will do WF, I am sure not a very good electrician.
Thanks:)
 

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Yea well heck, 29,000 on 3 to 4, and nothing between 1&2.
Can I use my old good one with the good one from this set and go for it?
Thanks again WhiskerFish.
 

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Yes you should be able to split the coil pack and swap out the bad one. Before you do that unscrew the plug caps from the end of the wires and repeat your readings sticking the probes in the end of the wires. Each Plug cap should have a 5 k resistor in it so by removing them from the system your new readings should be around 14,000 ohms.



If you do need to swap out a bad coil you will be doing some wire cutting and splicing.
 

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Whiskerfish wrote:
Yes you should be able to split the coil pack and swap out the bad one. Before you do that unscrew the plug caps from the end of the wires and repeat your readings sticking the probes in the end of the wires. Each Plug cap should have a 5 k resistor in it so by removing them from the system your new readings should be around 14,000 ohms.



If you do need to swap out a bad coil you will be doing some wire cutting and splicing.
Did that on the bad coil, was still 0, cked the other one and it was 15. then checked plug caps and the one on the good coil had 10ohms resistance. The others were from 4.7 to 5.7. Guess I found a bad cap huh? Perhaps thats what was wrong with my old coil? lol. :)
Old one still tests good, hot and cold, however, it has a visible crack along bottom edge.
 

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Sounds like you got a plan now!!
 

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So Whisker, I measured the little resistor inside the 10ohm cap and it came out 9.8. So was that a major problem for me?
 

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The caps should read 5,000 ohms each. 9.8 is a problem. I do not know if that is enough to weaken the spark to the point that ignition is compromised or not though.
 

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Whiskerfish wrote:
The caps should read 5,000 ohms each. 9.8 is a problem. I do not know if that is enough to weaken the spark to the point that ignition is compromised or not though.
Thanks for your help much manna to you.
EDIT:
I made a good coil set out of 2 sets and it seems to work great. Only noticed a slight pause at about 6k for split second, then she goes on up..
Special thanks to WF.
 
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