[glhonda]

Unplug the ignition switch as it may be faulty

+1
If you unplug the ignition switch, AND the lights stay on, you've got a battery source back feeding into the ignition circuit.
Times like this, you HOPE it's the switch.

 

[glhonda]

I think you need to PM Wexy or Steve to do that...

Why can't he PM you?

 

[glhonda]

Boy this stinks.
Since it happened when you washed it, it's either water in a connector, or a component shorted. (I was tops in my class)
You said the only way to kill the power was to disconnect the battery, so it has to be in, on, or around a connector that has BOTH battery power and Ignition power.
I'd suspect the connector for the fuse box.

 

[glhonda]

Well,, he can as a matter of course but he'd have better results with......

Just about anybody, since you don't answer yours!:lash::raspberry::ROFL:

 

[glhonda]

Disconnect the rectifier and see.

 

[glhonda]

I always step on myself with the 1100's. They're just the same, but only different than the 1000's and the 1200's.
My 1100 manual shows a rectifier/ regulator assy like the 1200 uses. Under the faux tank on the left side. Eight pin connector. Three yellows, two red, two green and a black.
If yours looks like this, it's quite possible the regulator is feeding back into the ignition circuit. Unplug the connector. The bike will still run, it just won't charge. Test only.

 

[glhonda]

So just what does that tell you, glhonda?

It tells me it's not the rectifier. And you're right. Not much more.

 

[glhonda]

have to pull ground to kill it or use kill switch.

The kill switch stops the bike? Did you mention this before?
If the kill switch kills the engine, it narrows things down quite a bit.
The red wire from the battery is connected in the ignition to the black wire that feeds the kill switch.
That black wire also feed the cooling fan, the regulator/rectifier and the fuse box.
It isn't a fused wire, it provides power to the fuse box for other circuits.
disconnect the ignition switch.
Remove all fuses from the fuse box.
Disconnect the fan motor.
Disconnect the regulator.
Place the kill switch in the off (no start) position.
Connect the battery terminals.
With a voltmeter, test for voltage at any of the black wires disconnected. The regulator would probably be closest.
There should be NO voltage. Not 8 volts, or 5 volts, NO voltage.
If there is, you have a harness problem. If there isn't, start plugging components back in one at a time until the problem presents itself.
Be aware, if the problem returns by installing a fuse, you'll have to start the process all over again on THAT circuit.
Since you have everything off already, this part should go rather quickly.

 

[glhonda]

I know this is going to sound stupid, since you've had the ignition switch apart and cleaned it BUT, have you checked continuity on the switch itself to verify that when you turn it to the off position, it actually breaks the connection between the black and red wires? Something may shorted internally. Put an ohmmeter on it and let us know.

 

[glhonda]

Perfect. Disconnect the turn signal cancel unit, recheck.
Disconnect the right switch controls multiple connector (red 9pin) Recheck

 

[glhonda]

For those wires to melt you had to have some resistance in the connector pins on that 9 pin plug and also at the switch.

Probably not. But check them anyway.
If you look, there is no battery source wire in that connector loom, that's just where the problem manifested itself. Most likely, wire chaffing as Dave eluded to earlier.
At least now, he has something he can fix.